I wanted to make this bag in my own colors and material.
Step 1: Blueprint Wooden Sides
Step 2: Wood and Settings
In the settings I choose ‘Soft Wood > General Soft Woods’.
I used Metric and put 'Auto Z' > 'enabled' on.
Step 3: Test Engraving
To test the jpeg engraving, I put inside the grip a jpeg and tried only this out first. It worked! So then I activated the whole print include the engravings.
Engraving: (power 94,8%) (speed 100%) (PPI 500) (Z-Axis 3.00mm)
Cutting: (power 100%) (speed 12%) (PPI 1000) (Z-Axis 3.00mm)
Auto Z: ‘Enabled’
Step 4: Cut All
The engravings are very percise. The little holes just felt out, so I didn't need extra work for that or an extra lsercutsession.
Step 5: Polish the Wood
Don’t forget to remove the dust after polishing!
Step 6: Textile Measuring and Cutting
Unfortunately, I found out at the Waag that there is PVC in skai: toxic to burn it. I decided to cut it with scissors, I only needed one row of course. I wouldnt need to cut holes, because I could sew through the skai with a needle. I only needed to draw point where I needed to sew through.
The three sides together for sewing are 91,5cm. The width of the piece of skai could I choose free, I chose 24cm, so I could carry pretty much stuff in the bag.
Draw this piece with a lineal on the skai (on the more cotton back you can draw very well) and cut it out with a pair of scissors.
Put the long perforated side just 1,5cm upon the skai. Draw with a ballpen dots through the holes on the back side of the skai. (1) Do this also for the other long side of the piece. (2) Then you need to do the same for the short sides, 4 times on the piece.(3,4,5,6)
Step 7: Paint/spray
To spray the wood in one job without turning and waiting, I picked to chairs and an iron cord to hang them up freely. Now i could spray them everywhere.
The cord can go through the grip or through a perforation. To prevent slipping of the wood to the middle of the cord, I fold a curve in the iron, so the wood stays at the place I wanted.
Step 8: Sewing
The textile cord I bought was 3m long and has a widht of 4mm. It seemed pretty tough, but I found out later that it started to ravel out while sewing though the wood. To prevent this, you can choose a leather cord.
Step 9: Sewing
In the corners: hold the skai just like the photo above. Go on with sewing while holding the corner. On the right photos, you see the result. Hold the cord tight.
In this way while sewing there comes a nice bow in the skai at the outside and the extra skai is invisible on the outside.
Step 11: Sewing
Sew through the dot on the skai, then though the wood. Then throught the next perforation in the wood, thought the textile dot and so on. Of course, you can not see the dot on the fake leather side of the skai, but you can see it while pricking real softly on the textile side without going through.
Step 12: Cord
- sew it througt the short ends of the skai
- just cut it of
- make a bow with the other loose ends (my decision)
Step 13: Final
The skai folds nicely inside thank to the corner-holding.
The underside stays strong and doesn’t fold inside, what I expected from the beginning. It looks pretty like this.