Introduction: Fogscreen Projection Screen Replica - Freefloating Images!

Picture of Fogscreen Projection Screen Replica - Freefloating Images!
First off: I would like to thank everyone for their support, comments, and votes! This has been an amazing experience and I'm so glad all of my trials and tribulations can help new people make their own displays :D

I've always have been into pushing my haunt to the next level each year (3-axis animatronic skulls I designed, home-made rgb led dmx lighting, the hearse, singing busts, projections, etc), and this project was no exception. It is by far my favorite creation and several hundred people stood in front of the yard for hours watching the effect.

After going to Disneyland, and seeing the new addition of Davy Jones and Black Beard to Pirates of the Caribbean the ride, I knew I would have to make my own! :D

Upon further research though.... the information on these is non-existent, as they sell for well over 100k new... which is wayyyyyyyyy out of my budget (and I'm guessing your's if you're on here reading this too!) so I set to work...

If you would like to see the commercial version that I am replicating... Click Here...

Goal- to make an 8ft wide fog projection screen for a penny on the dollar (1k or less - wait wait wait dont look away). What I achieved was an 8ft fog screen, at around $250-300... so that's 3/10's of a cent on the dollar as they say.... sound interesting?

Now I have to apologize at the forefront for the terrible video and low light shots, as all photos were just taken on my camera phone... and thats why I really hope I can win the contest so I can finally get great shots of all of my efforts!

Below are two tests of the unit, and honestly it is very quiet other than the sound of the fogger (thats all you hear in the video).

So if this peaks your interest... read on... and I will do my best to guide you to making your own! Happy Haunting!

And if you enjoy this please vote and check out my other halloween themed instructables. :D

Lastly, this project utilizes power tools, soldering irons, and electricity. Please exercise caution and always wear the proper safety gear! Pleaseeeee......


Step 1: Gather Your Materials and Tools... There Are a Few....

Picture of Gather Your Materials and Tools... There Are a Few....

As for materials, I will list everything I used just as a guideline.... Though you are more than welcome to use the exact same items :D

40 High CFM 120mm fans - I used 48v dual ball bearing Sunon fans that I was able to pick up on ebay for only around $3.25 a fan shipped LINK

40 Additional 120mm fans - I used some that I was able to source locally for only $1.65 each that are around 30cfm at 12v

Power Supply - If you decide to go the 48v route like I did, try to find a surplus industrial powersupply for cheap on ebay. I found 40v 30A lambda power supply for only $37 that I picked up locally (It did weigh 180lbs though so I'm being generous with "picked up") and I used an old scrap computer power supply I had laying around for the 12v fans

Power Cable Sheathing - You only need to go this route if you want it to look professional, and decide to use multiple strands of smaller wire instead of large gauge power cables to the unit. I found some woven sheathing that gave it a great look at only around 65 cents a foot at the local aeronautical surplus store (though it is widely available online at places like partsexpress and etc).

Power Cable Connector - Again, this is only for multiple stranded cable, and if you decide for the cable not to be permanently attached. So I picked up a army surplus 13 pin connector on ebay and it was only around 6$ shipped.

Wiring - Always check the clearance racks at Lowes and Homedepot... I was able to pick up two 500ft spools of 14 gauge paired wires at only $11 dollars each (normally close to 80$ each)... and the amount of wire really depends on how far you want the power supply away from the unit

Wire Nuts/ Electrical tape/Wire staples

Lumbar - You will need 2 sheets of half inch plywood, 4x 8ft 2x2's, 2x 8ft finished 1x2's, 2 1"x6"x8ft, and some random scraps

Moulding - 2 Half round wood moulding 8ft long

Fasteners - Lots of Wood screws in various lengths (1-2.5"), #6 2" bolts with nuts and fender washers (~20 bolts/nuts and 40 washers), wood glue

PVC Rain Gutter - I chose an 8ft piece from Home Depot

Pvc Drain Channel - Im not sure exactly what its called, but its located with all the drains you bury at Lowes and comes in 5-6ft lengths, and you will need two of these, and a coupler... All of the holes on the top need to be widened with a drill bit, and 1ft needs to be cut off of only one of the pieces

PVC Gutter Covers - These are flap like pieces of pvc and are around 3-4ft long so you will need 2-3 of them. I purchased mine at Home Depot (they are 1ftx4ftx1mm roughly and have a huge sticker on one side of them).

Oh... and the single most important part....

Honeycomb - A local aeronautical supplier provided me with some scraps luckily but you can always use plastic honeycomb (supermarketpartswarehouse) or even straws (the mythbusters approach) if you cant find the aluminum kind like I did.

A projector... Footage... and a fog machine (preferably that can do continuous fogging).... but these aren't part of this instructable...

Drill - With various bits
Jig Saw - you can honestly cut everything with this but a table saw works best for the long cuts (or a circular saw)
Hole Saw Bits - If you would like to use the power connectors
Soldering iron
Wire Strippers
Soooo many zip ties...

Paint - I used the same Behr Ultra High Gloss Exterior Black that I used on my Hearse... expensive but it covers in one coat and is by far the best paint I've ever used on bare wood.
Handles - This makes moving it so much nicer

There are various small bolts and screws not included, but those will depend completely on your setup.

So... once you have all that in front of you... lets proceed :D

And Btw... the renders are from a c4d file I created for this instructable. If you want it to look at, let me know and I will send it to you :D that way you can print out the side template and just cut it out.

Step 2: Let It Begin! Assembling the Base Structure....

Picture of Let It Begin! Assembling the Base Structure....

So, if your purchasing the lumbar at a big box store, they typically will cut large sheets of plywood for you for free (or only a few cents a cut) so I took advantage of this fact and had them cut the first piece of plywood into 4x 1ftx8ft strips.

Then print out the template from the .c4d file and attach it to the remaining sheet of plywood. Cut out two of these end caps, and now the assembly can begin. (if you do not have cinema4d, the dimensions are easy to figure out... the 1ft pieces of plywood are to scale in the image and are at 30deg and 60deg off of center, with the side angles between them at 45deg. The vertical section is 6" tall)


Take a small scrap of lumber (I used 7"x1"x1" on the outside and 10x1x1 in the center) and screw/glue these to each side of one of the strips of plywood. Repeat this for the other side, and affix these to the end caps with 1.5" wood screws and glue (as per the first picture.

Repeat for the remaining strips of plywood (this is where it really helps to have a second pair of hands)... And the photos show this progression.

Note: if you plan on painting the unit, I'd suggest painting the strips of plywood before installing as per the photos as they are extremely difficult to get to once all attached.

Next: My glorious fans, all 80 of them....

Step 3: Yes, You Read That Right.... 80 Fans...

Picture of Yes, You Read That Right.... 80 Fans...

Fans, fans, more fans.... but I must say... I always get giddy every time I see them all spin up at once :D

This step is arguably the easiest, but takes a while... so put on some music... grab a nice cold drink... and pull out your bag of zip ties, 2x2's, 1x2's, and boxes of fans....

Note: Make sure all cables are exiting the same direction, all fans are blowing the same direction, and please test them all before attaching... because its much easier to swap one out now than in a few minutes

Cheaper Low CFM fans- these will be set up in a 2x20 fan configuration. The easiest way I found to connect them was to thread a bolt in between the 4 corners and pinch them down on each side with a fender washer (as per the first photo)... then put all of the wires exiting away from the exhaust of the fan (intake side) and zip tie these to a 1x2 on each side, leaving roughly 1" from each end. (these will be the bottom central fans in the last photo... notice that we have the wood width wise)... you can daisy chain all the molex connectors or solder all of these together at this point if you would like.

High-CFM Fans - For these we will create banks of 1x20 fans that are flanked by 2x2's on each side... I really wish there is more that I can say... but get to zip tying (4 per fan) and make sure to evenly distribute them along the 2x2 (they should be roughly 1" in from each end when done). Wires on the intake side as per before. (see the second and third photos for this step).

Coming up next.... PVC Parts....

Step 4: PVC... That White Plasticy Goodness

Picture of PVC... That White Plasticy Goodness

Now for the plastic madness... which is actually fairly easy...

This is where you can not unfortunately rely on the template exactly... as I dont have the perforated drain pipe in front of me to take measurements of but its location is close to ideal. But you will need to cut a tight hole out of ONLY one side and side it in until it hits the far wall, where it can be attached via screws, wood blocks or glue. Whatever method you prefer. Do the same to the inside of the remaining side.

On the section of this pipe exiting the fogscreen, cover the holes with tape (metal, plastic, seran wrap, etc works as well) so that no fog escapes before entering the main unit.

Now cut 2 small pieces of wood to support the gutter roughly 2"x1"x1".... and affix these to the side walls with glue and 1-1.5" wood screws.

Now I know you're excited, but you cant attach the gutter yet... I found this out the hard way.....

If you skip this next step, 80% of the fog will exit the last 30% of your screen which does not make for an even image.

The Trick: Take a 1" wide section of your honeycomb and run it along the drain pipe and tie it to the pipe with thread (I know this seems insufficient, but it holds it quite well and more importantly does not impede fog flow at all).

Now ensure there is still atleast a .5-1" gap above the honeycomb and attach the gutter at each end with a wood screw as per the 6th photo.

Now flip over the unit and attach the gutter flaps to the edge of the central air duct's plywood as per the photo. 1" wood screws work well for this... though it is honestly a true pain as you have to fold it out of the way as you screw it in.

They should be pressed tight together at the top, and this is where you have to get creative. I used #4 x1.5" bolts to hold the gap open with nuts pinching each side. The ideal size is around 1/2" between the two, and this system allows you to adjust and test the gap as needed.

Next... Wiring...

Step 5: Wiring... Break Out the Music and the Cold Drink Because This Will Take a While...

Picture of Wiring... Break Out the Music and the Cold Drink Because This Will Take a While...

Yep, the title says it all. This was honestly 1/3 of the build time.

Im purposefully glazing over this section of the instructable because it is completely dependent on your setup, and I wouldn't fully recommend the way I went about it, but it was out of necessity because I was able to get the smaller gauge wire so cheaply.

But before we can wire in the fans we need to attach them... so throw in the assemblies (making sure the fans will be blowing towards the inside of the machine) and attach them from the outer portions of the device. As you can see from the first photo, if you attach the outer fans first, this will allow you to screw them in from both sides of the plywood. Then attach the central array of fans the same exact way. You honestly only need 4 screws per side (thats 8 per bank of fans) to hold them in there.

Now to why you are really here...

In reference to the second picture, I used 9 wires for the 48v, and the last 4 to carry the 12v. These are all taped every 8" together with electrical tape and put within the sheathing.

Then I mounted the other end of the coupling to the unit and proceeded to wire the fans from there. With fans of this power (48v ~30w each... Sunons) we can only run a few in parallel for each branch of the 48v coming out of the connector. So I broke them up into banks of 8, and wired them via wire nuts, and wire staples to keep everything neat.

The last thing we want is a wire to hit a fan and either break a blade or cause it to stop spinning and burn out... so it really pays to keep everything neat.

The 12v fans are wired in a similar fashion but in banks of 20 because they are only .15A each

Now stand back and admire your handywork. You should be looking like the last photo by this point.

Next.... Final additions....

Step 6: The Home Stretch...

Picture of The Home Stretch...

You're so close!

Whats left? .... Well, let me answer your fantastically placed question! Not much honestly....

Honeycomb installation... and Final Details....

But Mike, didn't we already install the honeycomb?

We installed some, but that was only a warm up for what is to come. Here is where those 1x6's and moulding come into play.

Attach the moulding, with the flat side 1.5-2" from the top edge, to each 1x6. Attach each of these to the vertical portion of your fogscreen's end caps with wood glue and 2" wood screws (refer to the top most portion of the first image).

Cut your honeycomb to fit snugly onto this. I left my aluminum honeycomb press fit into this without fasteners, though you could easily add them from the sides.

The honeycomb causes the turbulent air to form a Laminar flow, which boils down to a sheet of smooth air flowing together and giving you a smooth sheet of fog rather than a plume.

Attach your power cable to your power supply (Make sure to pay attention to polarity)

Setup you fog machine at the pipe inlet at the side (leave 2-3" inches of space between the nozzle and pipe).

Setup your projector to rear project on the fog and gather footage

Finishing touches......

Paint it! It will last longer, and when its painted black, it fades into the dark night and all you focus on is the image floating in midair, from seemingly nowhere.

I built a low wall to cover mine, with pillars to each side, so all the viewer saw was an 8'x6' image floating.

Also... invest in some handles... best 10-15$ you will spend if you will be moving this around...

Next... test footage....

Step 7: Testing and Performance Night -

Picture of Testing and Performance Night -
Once again I apologize for the terrible photos and video. My cell phone does terrible in low lighting. :D

Note: For halloween night I used a 3500 lumen projector and 1200w american dj fogger, and these were both more than enough. You could see the image from over a block away. Video was cued with resolume and the iphone app for wireless control, though a dvd player could stand in perfectly.

So, let it begin, the testing phase...

These were all with a 5mph breeze (thats why the top of the fog feathers out a bit) but commercial fogscreens cant handle any wind at all so I'm beyond impressed with the final product and everyone adored it. I hope it brings as much joy to you as it did to us!

Halloween Night: I was unfortunately talking to my godmother throughout the video so wasn't able to control the live dmx lighting or video playback, thus the disjointed video and audio half way through, as well as the excessive dialogue :D

Thank you for reading my instructable and please feel free to check out my others!


thedudedrummer (author)2013-09-27

Thank you very much for the compliment. I actually know the exact ultrasonic misters they use, but those even from china would be 800-1000 plus the additional need to a water pump, filtering sponge to keep the larger drops from escaping, a water level sensor, plus having to ensure everything is water-tight. So my design made some compromises to stay on a haunters budget but I am very pleased with the results. I just wish I had better photos and video of the final product, but the test videos still do a great job of showing the overall effect. Thank you again and best of luck in your fogscreen building ventures. :D

JohnC1006 (author)thedudedrummer2017-02-11

could you send any links on the atomizers you referenced in the commercial units? would also love to check out a reel of the content you create as we also create content and always need more talent...

axel5890 (author)2014-09-15

so i decided to make a newer dxf file that has an idea i was playing around with for how to mount the fan, the design is for a 4 ft version rather than an 8 so all the numbers are cut in half. basically all i did was add a way of actually attaching the fans with screws or vibration resistant mounting brackets so you can use ultra quite fans.

thedudedrummer (author)axel58902014-09-29

Vibration dampening would definitely cut down the noise on the unit. I just went with what I had available to me (cheap and powerful surplus fans/lumbar/zip-ties) and this allowed me to have the entire bank of fans only held in with 6-8 screws making fan change outs a breeze. But if you are trying to go more professional, I think its a great idea!

axel5890 (author)thedudedrummer2014-09-29

the big difference im thinking of doing will be to have the y fans (injectors) at each end of the unit and run a fog machine at each end, or possibly using a ground fogger to hide the fan unit and possibly add a bit of extra fog being pulled into the unit. as to the wiring i mentioned in my other comment attached is the basic drawings of how to wire it up.

thedudedrummer (author)axel58902017-01-07

Hi Axel, did you happen to finish this design? Im really interested to hear how all of your changes worked out!

luiscarlosrsousa (author)2016-01-27


what is the height of the curtain?

Hi Luis,

The projection height was tested at 6' tall, and can be used higher if needed but begins to feather out towards the top (at least outdoors). For image clarity, I would not go much past this with the listed hardware. With some tweaking I'm sure it'd be very do-able to achieve 8'.

saeedjy (author)2016-09-14

hi i am saeed from iran
i want to build this but i could find only one high speed fan with 200 cfm
would these fans made a good and stable screen?

thedudedrummer (author)saeedjy2017-01-07

Hi Saeed,

200 cfm may work, especially if you build a smaller unit or do not need the image to be full height (I unfortunately do not have a way to test this in person). The key with the fans is you want one with higher "Static Pressure" if you go lower on the CFM. This will help the air continue to the exit of the screen and not slip back through the fans themselves.

shravan.dir (author)2015-09-12

Hi , dudedrummer , this is shravan from India , i appreciate and liked your work in building fogscreen replica , i need little help from you in building one , i am confused in connecting those case fans , i have gone through your explanation in step guide , but not able to follow , can u explain me in detail please. i have forty 12 v , 230 cfm , 4600 rfm , 2.4 Amp Delta fans with 4 pin TAC connector , what kind of adapters or molex i required , how i can connect to power socket , please help me in solving this , thanks in advance , take care

frida.li1 (author)2015-01-23

Hi! This is Frida. I'm trying to construct a fog screen for an exhibition, I would like to connect with you and ask some questions, my email is
Phone 3105906894
Please contact me. Thank you!

goezd (author)2014-12-12

can we use blower instead of fans? do you have another version of it? please tell me.thanks

maoptimus (author)2014-10-14

Great Job!!! I Can't wait to build it!!

thedudedrummer (author)2014-08-02

I tried multiple foggers (everything from 2000w units, to 400w target units, to Chauvet 1050's) but ultimately stuck with the American Dj 1200 HD it was a great output of fog for the money / had a optional dmx remote so I could control it / and I found one used that just needed a tiny fix so I got it for a great deal. They all worked well though. What would be really nice is a continuous output fogger but those typically cost more and go through a ton of fluid.

As to the files, they are linked to the bottom of the instructable step coming up :D it's a zip'd file with a multitude of 3d formats inside.

axel5890 (author)thedudedrummer2014-09-15

the solution might be a simple y and a switching controller, to control 2 fog machines. while one is on the other is on standby, then vice versa, cant be that hard to rig up a couple relays to do this.

thedudedrummer (author)axel58902014-09-15

Axel, thats the idea I initially had, using multiple foggers and dmx triggers to activate them, but unfortunately the Y connector caused fog to come out of the other inlet as well. We could take your idea one step further and make a moving door/shutter for the Y connector so that only one inlet is open at a time and I think this would solve the suggestion completely. Great suggestion!

axel5890 (author)thedudedrummer2014-09-15

i actually used this with a fog chiller design i was playing around with last year, i ended up using drain pipes, basically i found that 1.5" black drain pipe fits well on most fog machine outputs, so i built what i call an injector its basically a small 12v fan mounted inside a piece of pvc pipe to prevent the fog from coming out the top of the chiller. its just a small 40mm fan with the casing removed and super glued inside a pvc pipe but it works great, has just enough pressure coming in at the 45 degree angle that it prevents fog from flowing back out the inlet in addition to removing the need for that small gap between the fog machine and the pvc inlet. im planning to build a similar fogscreen, only half the length (less power and half the cost) my idea is make transporting it easier, think it would be possible to build it in 4ft linkable sections?

thedudedrummer (author)axel58902014-09-29

That's a pretty cool way to create a ducted fan axel, and that would definitely help increase the airflow into the system. As to the linkable sections, it should be do-able. That is how the commercial units work, though it would take a considerable amount of re-design to prevent seams in the image being visible. I'm definitely interested in checking out your progress.

thedudedrummer (author)2014-09-04

Hi Sean,

Unfortunately I do not have a picture of it attached, but the fog machine outputs fog into the portion of the white tubing that sticks out from the unit. There needs to be at least a 6" gap between the nozzle and pipe to allow air to enter as well, and prevent the hot fog from melting the pvc.

I hope this helps!

sean.biden.3 (author)2014-08-29

Where does the fog machine attach too ?

Does it attach at the end of the unit?

Do you have a picturet of fog machine attached?


edgewatermedia (author)2014-08-01

Awesome project! What fog machine are you using for the screen?

Alex Hagios (author)2014-07-22

Could you send me the files please...

lisamarie (author)2014-07-20

This is beyond awesome!

ImLloyd (author)2014-06-06

Great job! I've been looking for something like this for months now! How noisy is it with everything running? I'd imagine the fans put out quite a bit of noise as well as noise from the air flow.

thedudedrummer (author)ImLloyd2014-07-08 here is one of the very early test videos of the unit (excuse the mess in the background). You can hear the hum of the unit, but the main sound was from the fog machine, so figure it runs at ~1/2 the db of your fogger for a rough estimate. Switching to the ultrasonic misters would cut down on the noise considerably, but brings with it additional costs and it's own challenges.

thedudedrummer (author)ImLloyd2014-07-08

Hi ImLloyd, thank you very much (sorry for the delay, work has been crazy lately). The 12v fans in the center were not audible at all from 3ft or so away. The server fans were not...quiet per say. I was running the at only half the rated voltage, so from 15ft away or so it was a tolerable hum (think standing next to a fridge). I'm guessing around 42-48db (I never thought to measure this) and it was completely in audible over the music I was playing at my haunt. At full tilt though these server fans are 54+ db. You can definitely get much much quieter fans, but these were the best balance between price and performance I could find. As to the noise from the airflow, it was non-existent over the fans surprisingly. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

thedudedrummer (author)2014-02-04

Hi Jayepmills, those server ventilation panels are interesting, I've never seen them before. You could use something like that if you'd like, with a fewer number of fans, and it might work alright but honestly the gaps between fans will be visible in the final image. It sounds like perfect image quality is not the primary concern though so this may work out great for you and save a decent amount of build time. The fewer fans you run though, the higher speed you will need to run them at and therefore higher noise. Where you can cut down fans though is in the central portion of the screen. On performance night I actually didn't even use the low voltage central fans as my 12v power supply was being used for my led lighting and the image was 80-90% as good so you could just get away with the two outside banks of fans honestly as long as it is blowing upwards. I am designing a tabletop model and I have another concept for a simplified version as well that if I don't take then into production I will gladly place them on here as instructables. I hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will try my best to answer them ASAP (I am in my final semester as a design student so I'm being pulled every which way lol).

jayepmills (author)2014-02-04

I am toying around with the idea of fog screen projection in a live theater project later this year. Your work is inspiring. Question about the fans. Is there any alternative to wiring up 80 of those bad boys that you think would result in a good image? What I would be projecting would be even better if it was obscured a little by a slightly less perfect fog screen. I am going for shadows projected on fog. If what I posted below could be found cheaper, what are your thoughts? Or even using just a few desk fans? Thanks in advance!

thedudedrummer (author)2014-01-15

Yes it can definitely be sized down. A member of my haunting group built a 4 foot version for his indoor haunt after seeing mine and it turned out great. He even used a tiny led projector for it since the walk through was extremely dark. :D

pohtaytoe (author)2013-12-17

This is incredible! Do you think it would be possible to do this same project in a smaller size, say 6ft or 4ft? Thanks!

tdhg (author)2013-10-01

Dang it I can't watch the videos on my iPhone! Could you let me know the youtube name to search for? I tried several combos and your name here and it didn't look like these vids? I voted for you anyway cause you a mad about halloween! Me too bit I could not wire a lamp much less these! And I live where it is hot and I would have to do something with smoke. I tried the chillers am all and it was a no go

bricabracwizard (author)tdhg2013-12-15

Here is his link:

thedudedrummer (author)2013-12-13

Yes it definitely could be inverted if you would like. For me, blowing vertically allowed for the unit to be placed behind a low wall and seem invisible relative to the rest of the yard, vs having a roughly 2ftx2ftx8ft display hanging (and having to build supports/use a ladder to fill the fog machine). Having it on the ground, also allows the projected image to go into the sky vs going onto the floor in front of the unit (as the video is a rear projection). It really depends on your situation. Great suggestion! Thanks!

lukeyeagley (author)2013-12-11

Could the whole setup be inverted so the fog blows down? Then people could walk underneath it and through the projected images. This would solve the issues with people potentially walking over it and damaging the aluminum honeycomb.

thedudedrummer (author)2013-11-25

Files up and viewable on Step 2 :D in .c4d, .obj, .dxf, and .3ds formats

thedudedrummer (author)2013-11-24

Thank you very much! And update: I had to rma the radiator because of a leak so the replacement should be here by tomorrow afternoon and I should have the file up right after that. Again my apologies on the delay.

Macflame (author)2013-11-23

Excellent! What a really cool project.

thedudedrummer (author)2013-11-22

I will try to pull an all-nighter on it tonight so it can be up here by tomorrow night. I'm switching to watercooling so I need to run the loop for 24hrs before I power up the machine -to check for leaks-

thedudedrummer (author)2013-11-22

Hi BrittLiv, I will gladly do so. My computer is apart this week for some repairs but the second it is together I will have them up on here and email you a set directly. Thank you for your interest. Also please let me know if .obj or etc would be a preferable format.

BrittLiv (author)2013-11-22

Hi, you are talking about "template from the .c4d file", but I can't seem to find it. Any chance, that you can re upload it?

thedudedrummer (author)2013-10-05

The video loops I used were mostly from I believe. Some was stock footage I have from my work as a content creator as well. Videoblocks usually has a free trial that allows you to download a limited number of videos a day for two weeks, so it is a great way to source footage on a makers budget. Hope this helps!

kfrohock (author)2013-10-05

This is great, where did you get the video you used?

thedudedrummer (author)2013-10-01

As to the transparency issue, you can achieve a much more transparent image with a lower wattage fog machine. When I tested it with a 400w we couldn't see the fog at all at night, but this also resulted in a much dimmer image (and as this was our centerpiece for the haunt we wanted it as bright as possible - with as wide of a viewing angle as possible). But the water vapor has a lower operating cost than a fog machine because of the fluid and power costs (long term). But this design, even with the fans only running at half power was still able to project a great image with ~5mph wind. Thank you again for the amazing compliment! I put my heart and soul into this thing.

thedudedrummer (author)2013-10-01

Thank you very much tdhg and Davidandora! If you'd like to watch the videos on YouTube they're under my other YouTube account of Renderhof. Or my photobucket at Riddomike.

davidandora (author)2013-10-01

This is spectacular! I've rented one of the professional units for an event. No kidding about the expense of it! Your version with a traditional fog machine is perfect, especially for your outdoor use. The water vapor screen on the unit I used is more transparent, but super sensitive to drafts, wind, etc and for all it's expense would not look as good as yours does in your setting. Great Instructable- Thank you!

kaligula785 (author)2013-09-25

this is exactly what ive been looking for for about a month form looking at the pictures of the "official" fog screen and reading what online info i could about it (because like you said there isn't much info in the technology used) i surmised a pretty similar set up the only thing i was thinking different was the use of ultra sonic atomizers which are also really cheap, but your results are phenomenal either way

Renard_Bleu (author)2013-09-19

Wow,what an amazing setup. I always wanted to try this. You should have a feature jump through the fog timed with something onscreen, like throw a dummy through during a fight scene.

Yeah, I was thinking about this too :D or make people walk though it ... but I was afraid the aluminum honeycomb would get damaged and I have no way to replace that cheaply. With a few design tweaks though its definitely possible! Thanks for the great idea!!

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