When it comes to play classical guitar, there are many options when you choose a stool that has to be slightly higher than a regular stool. I visited many music stores and from what I saw I decided that the ones in the market are either too weak, the finish is not very nice, very expensive, or the color didn't match my setup (pedal, guitar color, guitar stand, etc). I decided to give my design abilities a try and this is what I came up with. I hope you like it. So far, it has worked for me.
It can also be used as a regular portable stool, only by changing a couple of measurements.
Step 1: Materials
- A 6 meter cold rolled 3/4" X 5/32" flat bar (you don't need it all, but then again they don't sell less than the whole 6 meters).
- A 1 meter 1/2" cold rolled flat bar.
- A 28 centimeter by 7 millimeter round piece of plywood.
- 2 rivets.
- A small piece of thick wire or thin rod 30 centimeters tops.
- A 1 foot piece of your favorite color leather.
- 4 1" X 1/4" carriage bolts with nuts.
- a 34 centimeters 10 cm thick round piece of foam (slightly bigger than the piece of wood for aesthetics)
- A handful of upholstery tacks.
Step 2: The Safety Feature
Take your 1 meter 1/2 inch plate and cut it in half. You want to make two pieces like the ones in the picture; personally, I bent them in a regular vise with the help of a regular hammer. Make sure that once the pieces are bent the way they should, their length will not exceed that of the diameter of your round piece of plywood, or the stool will look terrible. Take a look at picture two and you will get my point. If the plates are longer than the top of the stool, it doesn't look very nice.
The best thing for this design is that even if you move or bend your body in any way, the stool's legs will not slip out of place. To me, that's a winner.
Note: Make sure the two pieces are not completely closed, because during the final assembly, you need to insert the other pieces of the stool through these openings.
Step 3: The Top
Step 4: Upholstery Work
Now take your piece of leather and cut it into a circle (1 Foot diameter). Put the carriage bolts through the wood at this point even though you are not going to put the plates yet; remember that once you put the foam and the leather, there's no way to get the bolts under them.
Place the foam flat side facing the wood an cover it with the leather. Turn the wood upside down and start tacking the leather. Start tacking in four places at 90 degrees angles and start stretching the leather and placing tacks all around the wood while securing the leather. Always stretch the leather and tack in opposite sides to make it as even as possible until you get something like in picture 2. If you did it right, the stool top should look like picture 3.
Step 5: The Legs
When you have bent your leg plates as illustrated, weld them to have them fully closed. Place them side by side on the floor or on a table, and mark the center at "C" on the side to drill holes and run your rivets through them (from the outside). Place the narrow square inside the broad one and rivet them. Now you have a flexible 3D "X" . Pictures 2, 3 and 4 give you a general idea of this step once you have accomplished it.
Step 6: The Sliding Guides
Take your two "L's" and make a small bend to be able to weld them at the distance measured, so that the two 1/2" plates will slide freely between them; there should be two "L's" in each rod: a short one for welding purposes and a long one for guiding purposes. The welding "L" should be short and face outside and the sliding/stopping "L" should face inside (Picture 2). In Picture 3 you will see how they should slide. Make sure you don't leave too much distance between the two rods, because although the stool will not fall apart, when you are sitting on it, if there is too much distance between them, you will get the feeling that the stool is going to break. As soon as your rods are welded n place, make yet another bend toward the outside of the stool as if it were already assembled. Again the length of the rods is not critical, but a 10-12 cm pair of rods will look the best. Pictures 4 and 5 show you how far "out" you should bend your rods, as they stop the 1/2 plates when the stool top is in use or folded.
Step 7: Final Assembly
Note: You can use the stool as it is without any rubber in the part of the legs that rests against the floor, or you can get a suitable hose and cut 4 pieces of about 1", and after splitting them place them under the legs with contact cement (that's what I did).
Another option is to put the hose on the squares before you weld them but when you paint them the hoses are going to get on the way. In the last set of pictures you can see the pieces of hose resting against the floor.
Step 8: The Stool in Use
Questions or feedback are welcome.