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This is my third attempt at making this. At one point I started having back problems from sitting so much. I decided to create a work station that I could put on my table top so I could stand to work. The first one I made, I ripped pieces of 2x4s to make thin strips of wood. I made it very solid and it took up way too much room. My second one I made for my home and made it so it could fold up to take up less room. I figured I would make a third to replace the first that is in my office.

One thing to remember is to check the height you will need for your station. I made my stations for my height and the height of my table. Make sure that your work station will be at the right height so that your arms will be comfortably bent at the elbow. Too low and you might as well be working on the table itself while you are standing up. If it is too high your shoulders will strain to reach the top. Make sure you take in to account the thickness of the wood (top, 2 supports, and then the length of the legs).

Step 1: Materials

Wood:
2 - 1x3x8 furring strips ($2.70)
2 - 2x2x8 furring strips ($3.74)

4 - 3/4"X1" ($2.18)

Non-adhesive Velcro ($1.00)

4 - felt pads (< $2.27)

Elastic ($0.97)

(Total = $12.86)

Tools:
Chop saw (something to cut the wood)
Drill with drill bits and driver bits
Screwdriver
Staple gun
Tape measure
Pencil
Counter-sink bit
Screws

Step 2: Cut the Wood

Cut all of the wood to length.

As stated in the intro, the first time I used a 2x4 that I ripped to size. The second one I used small furring strips. This one I used larger furring strips. Use whatever you can find or are comfortable using. Furring strips are cheap and light which makes this more portable.

Top:
5 - 1x3x30"
(You may need more if you want it wider or longer)

Supports and legs:
6 - 2x2x 12-3/8" (adjust if you make the station wider)
4 - 2x2x 6-3/4" (adjust for your height)

Sand the wood after it is cut. Now would be the time to stain it as well. I, however, like the look of this wood.

Step 3: Mark for the Supports

There are 4 supports to hold the top together, attach the legs, and provide stability for the closed legs. Mark the underside of your top pieces where the supports will go. I measured in 2" from each end for the outer supports then laid out the legs where they will go to mark where the inner supports will be. The inner supports should be placed at a point where the legs will rest on them comfortably when they are collapsed. This distance will vary based on the length of the legs.

Step 4: Pilot Holes

Once you have the supports marked, drill pilot holes. Place the holes in the middle of where the supports will be. (I only used one screw per piece of top wood per support.) I like to do this from the underside because of the pencil lines and any drill marks that are made.

Step 5: Counter-sink and Attach

Flip the pieces over so the top side is facing up. Use a counter-sink to make it so your screw heads will not be above the surface of the top. Once done, attach the supports with the appropriate sized screws (I used 1-5/8"). I marked the sides of the top to line up the supports underneath.

Step 6: The Legs

Take the last 2 pieces that are the same length as the supports and drill a pilot hole on each end. Make the pilot holes just smaller than the diameter of your screws. These will be more likely to split because of how close they are to the end. Attach the leg pieces perpendicular to the support length pieces. I used a 2-1/2" screw for each leg.

Again, take into account the thickness of the wood when determining how long the legs should be.

Step 7: Attach Legs

Using two small hinges per set of legs, attach the legs to the outer supports.

The legs should fold down and rest on the inner supports.

You may need a small screwdriver for the screws that come with the hinges. I also found it useful to make small starter holes for the screws to stay in place better.

Step 8: Locking the Legs

I used Velcro to lock the legs when they are standing up or else they will collapse when any weight is added. I used plain Velcro strips that had no adhesive backing. Attach using a staple gun. I used the "fuzzy" side for the strap and the "hook" for the attachment places.

Attach the strap to the outside of the outer support. The strap should be long enough to reach over the leg when it is standing up and down to the other side of the outer support. Attach the hook pieces to the leg pieces and outer support as shown in the picture.

Step 9: Protective Feet

Attach protective pads to the bottom of the feet. This will protect the surface of your table. I bought a pack of 16 felt pads with adhesive backing for $2.27. Feel free to use what you would prefer.

Step 10: Elastic Straps

Attach (using staple gun) elastic straps to the inner supports to hold the legs in place when it is folded up for storage. Straps should be tight enough that they will hold the legs down snuggly.

Step 11: Finished

You are done.

Make a cup of coffee and get to work!!

Fold it up and slide it away when you are done.
<p>Both your instructable and finished work station look pratical and beautiful. I notice when your laptop is standing on the station your arms/elbows would not have any support. Isn't that hard on your back/shoulders? </p>
<p>Thank you for your input. The height that I set my workstation allows my elbows to hang slightly so that I actually &quot;come down&quot; on my laptop. Also, I just placed my laptop on the station for the picture (there is real coffee there however) and would usually move it back slightly.</p>
<p>Perfect solution... I was just thinking of building a collapsible booster for my office desk. </p>
simple, practical, inexpensive, I like it

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