Geodesic domes are light, strong structures with huge interior space that is very pleasant and inviting.  Unfortunately they tend to take many man-hours to erect.  I wanted a dome that could be easily put up by one or two people in short order. Hence the Folding Geodesic Dome, also known as the Democracy Dome since it's made from recycled political campaign signs.  With another election coming we may get some new raw materials soon...  Unfortunately this concept is not yet strong and windproof enough for the desert, but testing is underway for a more secure way to attach the segments.  More on this later in the Instructable.

It takes 105 triangles to make the particular dome shape I wanted (called a 3V), which could be a time-burner to assemble.  The Folding Geodesic Dome simplifies things  with tape hinges that pre-connect many of the triangles into 16 segments, each of which can fold into a small stack and connects to its neighbors via tabs and clips. The more hinges used the less time spent connecting triangles in the field.  The dome goes up with 2 people in 2 hours or less. Takedown time is 30 minutes.

There are great Instructables for light domes made from coroplast or cardboard which negate the need for a support frame. This dome was made with an eye for economy, using 20 surplus 4’x8’ 4mm coroplast political campain signs found on Craigslist for $100.  The panels can be made from any stiff material  (cardboard, coroplast, thin plywood, plexiglass) that is rigid enough to resist bowing.

This project was made possible by the resources at desertdomes.com including their dome calculator, dome formulas and the dome diagram that I use in this Instructable. (If you build a dome, please donate to desertdomes.com as I did.)

This dome is a light-duty ‘backyard’ dome, done as a proof-of-concept; it isnt’t waterproof or windproof enough for open country yet.  My next version will utilize a combination of thin plywood for the hexagons and coroplast for the pentagons (to let light in) and will address weatherproofing.  This project was a runner-up in the ShopBot Contest - most exciting!  Thanks to everyone who took the time to vote.
 
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Step 1: Design

A “3V” geodesic or polyhedral dome is made of hexagons and pentagons, which means you will need 2 basic triangle shapes, called BAA and BCC. Start your project with a visit to desertdomes.com, where you will find dome diagrams, dome formulas and an invaluable dome calculator.  This Instructable is for a dome with a 7’ radius; this is a “5/8” 3V dome meaning taller vs flatter, over 8’ tall in the middle. The dome likes a flat surface to sit on making it ideal for the open desert playa, not so suitable for uneven terrain. The dome base isn't exactly flat, but close; the flexible nature of the coroplast bows and yields a little when you deploy it to make up for any uneven contact (Note:  the prototype pictured here has a radius of 7.2’ but wasted more material from a 4x8 sheet. My next dome and this Instructable use the dimensions for an 84” radius - 7')

The dome is composed of 3 basic folding segments: a pentagon (5 triangles), a hexagon (6 triangles) and a “hexagon plus 3” (9 triangles for the base row ).  Each segment unfolds and is clipped into a convex shape with binder clips or a clamp made from pvc pipe. 

To calculate the dimensions of the 2 triangles (BAA and BCC), use the desertdomes.com dome calculator and enter the dome radius in inches to get get the lengths of the A, B and C triangle sides. 

For the radius of 84” (7 feet)  we get
A= 29.284”  (roughly 29 1/8”)
B= 33.898” (roughly  33 7/8”)
C= 34.642” (roughly  34 5/8”)

I used those numbers to calculate:
Height of BAA =  23.881” (roughly  23 7/8”)
Height of BCC= 30.213” (roughly  30 1/4”)
.5xB = 16.949” (roughly 16 15/16”, for the midpoint of the B edge)

For the 3V, there are 30 “BAA” triangles (to make 6 pentagons) and 75 “BCC” triangles (to make 10 hexagons and 5 semi-hexagons).   1” wide tabs are placed along B edges to connect segments together, and on some of the C and A sections too.  The triangles along the base of the dome have 4” tabs with holes for the anchor stakes.  Edges that don’t have tabs will have tape hinges that connect to their neighbors.  I’ve mapped out where the tabs need to be for every triangle needed in the dome, adding up to 12 different shapes you’ll cut - download the pdf Cutlist for shapes and quantities.
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guddagudda2 says: May 19, 2012. 9:19 AM
another thing is can you just cut same size triangles and connect them and not do the math to do it. i also want it to have a radius of 5.5 ft so i don't understand how to figure it out because the website is confusing and also how to connect them i don't understand
guddagudda2 says: May 19, 2012. 8:58 AM
Hi is there anyway you can make it without the political signs(such as another material) if so what do you suggest. i would like to take it camping with me! thanks!
derrickcan says: Mar 22, 2012. 5:11 AM
She's a beauty, always been a huge fan of domes! Looks to be a lot less time on setup than a yurt and more travel friendly! I was trying to count how many pieces of pvc pipe one would need to join every tab? I got to 49 for sure and then maybe 60 total? Oh and would the structure support a tarp tossed over in case of rain? Thanks!
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 22, 2012. 6:36 PM
Just counted again, 60 tab connections it is. The dome would easily hold a tarp over the top, though flapping could be an issue unless well secured.

I also like a "flying" tarp suspended over my tents, keeping 99% of the water off the tent. When kept taught they won't flap in the wind too bad. If no trees available to suspend one, I use 8" tall garden/tree support poles to hold up the corners. A 10' pole would clear the top of the dome pretty well I think.

Thanks for the comment!
trevormead says: Mar 18, 2012. 1:20 PM
Beautiful dome project! Is there anything in the deployment that prevents it from being assembled top-down, instead of bottom-up? I wonder if that would lend to less fighting with the support poles.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 19, 2012. 5:38 PM
I think there's a good argument for top-down, but haven't tried it yet. I've worked on an assumption that much of the dome's strength comes from the lowest tier being directly attached to the earth, creating the perfect "floor" for the dome and giving rigidity. Yet it's quite floppy till you get most of it up, so maybe starting with the structure first and tacking it down later might work.

If you built it with the tabs on the outside for a smooth interior, you would need to build it top-down to reach the tabs on the upper segments.

The poles get easier after a couple of runs, but it can be pretty comical to move one thing and have them all try to fall on you.
trevormead says: Mar 19, 2012. 6:18 PM
Excellent! I'll give it a shot and report back, I'm building one for a regional burn in Colorado.

Have you found any other materials that would lend to waterproofing? A campmate built a hexayurt out of insulating panels last year, I'm wondering if that might be a path to investigate; though I wonder how well the tabs would stay attached once scored, even with a strong tape.

As for the seams... short of adding an extra layer of waterproof tape on the outside, that's a tricky one. There's always Great Stuff, but man, that stuff is a pain, and not ideal for repeated setup/teardown.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 22, 2012. 5:39 PM
I think that I've got a fair solution to waterproofing. I'm going to tape all of the tab-hinges to seal the open flutes that get exposed when one face of the coroplast is cut. This should also add friction to the face of the tabs. Along with some of the tack spray mentioned in these comments, it should seal the tab connections well and add strength.

I'll take some pics and update this Instructable to show the method. I'm going to the desert first week of May and will be setting up the dome for another trial, so I'll include some pics of that as well.

Send some pics of your project!
ilpug says: Feb 28, 2012. 5:01 PM
I noticed you used what looks like lengths of PVC pipe for clamps to hold the pieces together. Am I seeing that right?
yourpalsparky (author) says: Feb 28, 2012. 5:09 PM
Yes, there is a pic of one (on the materials page I think) showing a lengthwise slit with notches at each end to help get the tube clamp onto the tabs. This gives more linear 'clamp' to the tabs. This along with using tack spray on the tab faces should make it strong enough for bigger winds.
ilpug says: Feb 28, 2012. 5:15 PM
Ok, that looks like a great clamping method, however, it seems like it would be annoying to slot all of that PVC. How did you do that? I am thinking of putting grommets on my tabs and using small bolts.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 5, 2012. 5:37 PM
That would be plenty strong. I've even thought about taking out a big stapler to tack the tabs into place, and the proper staple remover for take-down time.
AmyLuthien says: Mar 1, 2012. 10:49 AM
If you made one of these out of a clear material, it would make an outstanding greenhouse/cold frame for starting the garden earlier in the spring. :D
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 1, 2012. 5:10 PM
I'd like to make one out of one-way mirror plexiglass - shiny outside, unobstructed view inside. Reverse at night though I guess....
AmyLuthien says: Mar 1, 2012. 6:33 PM
Kind of like those public toilets in London? :D
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 5, 2012. 5:35 PM
Exactly!
tjk94 says: Feb 28, 2012. 1:07 PM
Awesome!!!

I am definitely building one of these to use a a temporary/portable gazebo...I will probably do a 2v Icosahedron though to decrease setup time.

Having worked with these before do you think this setup would be stable or should i just do a smaller door like what you have? The final build will be 8 feet tall and built out of the same material you used. Also, how stable is yours without the poles?

Thanks!
dome proto.png
yourpalsparky (author) says: Feb 28, 2012. 5:16 PM
That's nice big door! The structure loses integrity when you lose triangles, which is a drawback to using a panel-based structure. I find that my dome gets a little 'saggy' around the doorway, so using just 2 poles to give the doorway some support really helps.

The door in your pic looks awesome, but I think coroplast wouldn't hold it's shape with that big a hole. The dome is somewhat floppy as you build it, getting firmer as you add segments; losing this much support may be trouble. Using a stiffer material like plywood might change that.

Perhaps get some free cardboard and build one out of that as a testbed, then use your findings to make the final one from plastic.
tjk94 says: Feb 28, 2012. 5:50 PM
Yeah i figured as much...I'm currently building a scale model to test that.

My plan is to put a pole on either side of the door hole with a diagonal strap to...this will make more sense with a diagram...there.  The red would be a pole and the blue would be a string/rope holding in that corner.

Anyway we will see how the model holds up and move on from there :)
dome proto x2.png
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:38 PM
That looks really simple and functional - and you get that awesome big door out of it!
tjk94 says: Mar 3, 2012. 8:07 PM
from my scale model test I think the door itself will actually be the most unstable part...however the larges size of coroplast I seem to be able to find anywhere is 4x8 feet which would be hard to fit the size and number of triangles I would need onto, so I still have quite a bit of planning to do.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 6:06 PM
My efforts here are humbled by Rob Bell, who builds the finest "domes" I've ever seen. The defining feature of his math is that all edges are of equal length - only the corner angles vary. Worth a look, with more info readily findable online.

Short video that explains it well: http://www.thetalentree.com/zonotopia-by-installation-artists-at-the-burning-man-festival/

Nice pic by the builder: http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12257

I'm a maker, he's an artist. This is what inspires me to start designing digitally and outputting to a CNC.
Forn Man says: Mar 1, 2012. 6:13 PM
Great instructable! I've built a couple of these, but never out of coroplast. Great material for something more permanent. My initial thought was that this could be a fantastic hunting base camp-type structure. It would be much nicer than a tent. I wonder if a suspended tarp over it would provide rain protection.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:47 PM
I think so - corner poles with taught tarp between them, or even trees if you got em. Even when I tent-camp I like a tarp suspended above the tent for shade or rain protection. I also think a rain-fly nailed down at the corners could boost strength against big winds.

If you cut the dome shapes with tabs folding upwards, you would get a smooth interior with ribs outside. It would keep the tarp off the dome for better air circulation between them; might be hard to clip it together from the outside though...

I do like the dome for it's lack of flapping in the wind; ideally I can get it waterproof sans tarp.

Keep the ideas coming people...
randomhand says: Feb 27, 2012. 7:05 AM
epic idea! how waterproof is it, do you get good run-off? being from the UK, rain is quite a big issue.

Also you should make a video of you putting it up, or a stop motion?

good luck with the contest.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Feb 27, 2012. 8:02 AM
Thanks! Unfortunately the instructable lacks a couple of the steps like cutting out the triangles and a stop-mo film like you mention. Waterproofing would be great, and I think V.2 will be tighter in the seams where tabs meet, so we'll see. It's the classic drawback for domes. This version is best for the desert.
blazingpencilsdotcom says: Mar 1, 2012. 7:06 AM
Chronolapse is a free time-lapse program for capturing & creating video, it works off your webcam or captures screen shots from your computer. It's really easy once you get the hang of creating the 2 folders needed for each video.
wakojako says: Mar 1, 2012. 9:40 AM
You could also (providing you have a large enough memory card) video the construction, transfer it to your computer then speed it up in windows movie maker. (if you use a PC - i'm sure mac and linux will have a similar solution.)

Just right click on the footage in the timeline, click 'effects' then select 'speed up double'. Click 'add' to add this effect to the footage - you can do this more than once - then click ok.

After that you just need to export it.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:37 PM
I think I'll do that next time I raise it; a time-lapse would really show off the method I found for easiest raising. The dome can be quite a handful during erection as moving one support pole can cause all the others to fall at once and give you some exciting moments. I took a while to come with an orderly process to get the thing up easily with one or two people.
grimdaddy says: Mar 1, 2012. 6:02 PM
Very cool. What materials would you recommend for a more rainy area?
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:30 PM
The issue for rain is the joints where the tabs connect, as the tape hinges are sealed quite well. The plastic is a good material for rain; I need to tweak the joints on the next version to see if I can improve the seal.

One could also do well with a sealed or painted thin plywood, of good quality like a birch plywood, which I expect will be in my next version.

Thanks for the comment!
paintphone says: Mar 1, 2012. 9:06 PM
I want to make one soo bad, waiting for warmer weather!!!
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:27 PM
Post some pics when you do! Thanks for the comment.
kalli4nyagrl says: Feb 27, 2012. 6:57 AM
Such a fantastic idea! This design could help people in disaster situations who need instant, lightweight, affordable, easy to assemble shelter. I hope someday this design is mass-produced because it could help so many people.
llanyort says: Mar 2, 2012. 10:00 PM
Mass production will not occur in our present economy. Companies will want to make a buck. And then over charge for this product. This idea could make housing affordable for everyone but people will be afraid that people of lesser quality will move next to them. An individual or collective group will need to create a mass production environment. And offer this for free. But sadly this will all never happen, our society is corrupt and twisted with lack of education and economic enslavement. Sadly, everything has a price and we the sheeps' will "buy" it because it's the cool new thing that media "shows" us.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:26 PM
It's great to see the blossoming home industry that is occurring with affordable cnc machines and the software to design with. Manufacturing moving from big companies to small ones, and now the 3D printers making the scene as well. Let's hear it for micro-manufacturers!
Revanchist says: Feb 29, 2012. 6:46 AM
Aaaaand make him rich while at it right? we don't want the govmt to steal his idea and not pay him for being such a creative designer!
yourpalsparky (author) says: Feb 27, 2012. 8:00 AM
Gracias!
rapidprototyping says: Mar 2, 2012. 7:49 PM
when you say sheetgoods styrofoam comes to mind. see american ingenuities concrete bondbeam and fiberreinforced concrete applied to styrofoam . The system of chicken wire first connected together and then permanently afixed with concrete in the bondbeam . once you see the bondbeam and think of you shop bot fabrication you will see you could fab six
components and build a dome in days not weeks months or years. since styrofoam can be had for free at furniture stores as its used to pad shipping
from damage. a cnc router could cut replications of just few shapes. as you have said a geodesic dome caculator gives the rastra demensiions to enter into the cnc machine. another interesting article i had was called geotangent showed an infinate number of shaped structures could be built using the bond beam technology (with proper licences of course) geotangent just did the math using computers. so it be computer generated and fabricated as we call design build. concrete is benign so is styrofoam so ideal interior finish is plaster also benign. no mold ever . the beauty of bond beam is no reinforced re bar except in the slab. so tornado devasted location is idea place to build one. why not just keep cranking out components and build like barn raisng. it amazes me we furnish tents trailers when we could provide real dome homes.
yourpalsparky (author) says: Mar 3, 2012. 5:23 PM
I found a Popular Science article from 1990 for the geotangent dome you mention - that's a neat shape! Good fodder for a cnc machine...
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