Print PDF
Favorite
Email
UPDATE: The old wiring diagram contained errors (sorry, I wasn't too familiar with electronics and wiring diagrams, this was one of my first projects and my first instructable). There were also questions about the blue wires going to the wah pot, I drew the wah pot to make things clear.
This makes your Crybaby wah switch on when you put your foot on it, and turn off when you remove your foot!. It will also be equipped with true bypass. That means that the circuit is actually bypassed when the wah effect is off, instead of passing through its transistor bypass circuit (that ruins your sound, removes clarity, makes distortion sound like a bad fart, etc).
If you might want to control your wah the original way for some reason, then there's a miniswitch on the side that lets you choose between the two modes. When the wah is in foot-on-pedal mode, a green led lights up to indicate this. I also placed a red led that indicates that the wah is on AND in original mode. The thing I hated most about the standard crybaby is that you could not see whether it was on or not!
-- VIDEO --
This makes your Crybaby wah switch on when you put your foot on it, and turn off when you remove your foot!. It will also be equipped with true bypass. That means that the circuit is actually bypassed when the wah effect is off, instead of passing through its transistor bypass circuit (that ruins your sound, removes clarity, makes distortion sound like a bad fart, etc).
If you might want to control your wah the original way for some reason, then there's a miniswitch on the side that lets you choose between the two modes. When the wah is in foot-on-pedal mode, a green led lights up to indicate this. I also placed a red led that indicates that the wah is on AND in original mode. The thing I hated most about the standard crybaby is that you could not see whether it was on or not!
-- VIDEO --
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Buy parts
You have to buy a few parts for this mod. I bought them all together for about 10-15 euro's:
- 3PDT stomp switch, to replace the stock one
- green 3mm LED
- red 3mm LED
- 350 ohm resistor*
- 390 ohm resistor*
- 3PDT miniswitch
- DPDT mini momentary switch, with button.
- thin electrical wire
- superglue or two led holders
Tools you (might) need
- plyers, for cutting the wires and tightening the nuts
- a wire stripper. You can use the plyers if you dont have one, but be careful not to cut the wire
- a drill and a set of drill bits
- soldering iron
- screwdriver
*If you can't find these specific resistor values, take the the nearest value you can find. A higher value is good, but don't get significantly lower because that will cause the LED to burn out. Also, if you think the LED's are too bright, try higher value resistors such as 1K or higher.
- 3PDT stomp switch, to replace the stock one
- green 3mm LED
- red 3mm LED
- 350 ohm resistor*
- 390 ohm resistor*
- 3PDT miniswitch
- DPDT mini momentary switch, with button.
- thin electrical wire
- superglue or two led holders
Tools you (might) need
- plyers, for cutting the wires and tightening the nuts
- a wire stripper. You can use the plyers if you dont have one, but be careful not to cut the wire
- a drill and a set of drill bits
- soldering iron
- screwdriver
*If you can't find these specific resistor values, take the the nearest value you can find. A higher value is good, but don't get significantly lower because that will cause the LED to burn out. Also, if you think the LED's are too bright, try higher value resistors such as 1K or higher.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
Thanks, bro!
However, I think one step is missing to make the mod really true-bypass. From what I have read on the 2 websites below, to be true bypass, the circuit between the input jack and the buffer input needs to be cut:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm
http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm
Else, the green cable soldered on the capacitor has no use. Or maybe I misunderstood something?
http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/switches/snap-action/miniature/30-2750--mini-snap-action-pushbutton-momentary-dpdt-1a-125v-solder/4,4768.html
Ive looked everywhere!
The site mentioned by somerockerguy doesnt have them and niether does that dutch one you mentioned!
But i have the same question of Link0126, where goes the blue wire from the harness?
4 5 6 (looking at lugs with the common to left, normally closed to right.
1 2 3 and lugs numbered as shown)
C NO NC
1= Purple wire (Output to amp, to middle lug of middle row on 3pdt switch)
2= Blue wire (The effect loop return, goes to wah pot)
3= Green wire (Input from guitar, goes to the PCB harness)
4= Green wire (The effect loop input, goes to top right lug of the 3pdt switch)
5= Solder your jumper wire from 5 to 3)
6= No wire here
With this arrangement the switch (as long as it is the same type of momentary switch with the same C-NO-NC orientation as shown in the drawings in the instructable) should work as expected.
As drawn in the instructable the wiring diagram results in no signal with foot off (C-NC connected, which as drawn means the guitar input flows to the effect loop return). With the Foot On you get Clean (C-NO connected, the guitar input connects to the amp output). At least this is what I see...I had wired it as shown in the instructable, and posted stating that I had no signal foot off, and wah with foot on, but I may have been frustrated at the time and wrote the wrong thing...if you follow the signal paths, foot on should give you a clean signal as it is currently diagrammed.
Also, for other who know nothing about these switches, the lug are flat. To orient the 3PDT stomp switch and 3PDT mini toggle switch correctly for wiring as shown in the instructable, the lugs should look like this:
I I I ON _ _ _ ON
I I I for the stomp, but like this: _ _ _ for the mini switch.
I I I _ _ _
I think that is correct for all stomp switches. For the mini 3PDT toggle, you just need to make sure the "ON" throws are on the left and right as shown.
Sorry to be so verbose, but I am not an electronics hobbyist, so having this spelled out in the instructions would have saved me a lot of pain. No offense to the author...this is a cool project, and thanks for posting it!
after fiddling with it for about 3 hours (unsoldered it and soldered it back all together) same result, when i plug it in loud crackling sounds and i can barely hear my guitar throught it. thats the same effect with all positions of stomp switch and 3pdt switch. also noticed another thing... the leds dont turn off completely when i change it, the light dimmers but it still on on both :(
im getting whipple wah mod in a few days so im gonna try trouble shoot then by 1st converting it back to original state and see if i can solve the problem then, but at the moment .... no joy :(
I think they ship worldwide, not sure though.
here are pictures
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2rm2tg6&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=dy64p&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=xfrgoz&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25k6gjn&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=uvatd&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=312jqmc&s=4
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2l8c001&s=4
if you want to use any of these pics you may.