This is the process by which i forged a knife from an old Nicholson file. enjoy.

From this point forward you are forewarned; forging is a dangerous activity. it includes high temperatures, heavy hammers, and lots of smoke. always work in a well ventilated area, use good leather gloves, and wear eye protection. above all use your common sense, and you will be ok...probably.

Step 1: coal, or lack thereof

maintaining a coal fire can be a challenge. unfortunately, i have no coal. so i use hardwoods and lots of forced air to attain the heat i need. it uses a lot of fuel, but it works.

select your steel now; preferably high-carbon (old files, car springs, (leaf or coil) lawnmower blades,old machete blades, etc. and put it in your coal bed.
I find that most files have too high of a carbon content to actually be functional as knives, but they make great conversation pieces! When you quench a high carbon steel that is as thin (or thinner) as a file the quench needs to be slow and EVENLY controlled. Water or brine quench is a crack waiting to happen; hot motor oil is better, but ambient air is probably going to leave it plenty hard enough to keep an edge. <br> <br>Generally, the heat treat process is always Harden, then Temper!
I do 3 anneals and 5 heat treats, always quench mine in motor oil. On this piece its going to be a skinning knife. since its not going to be used for impact in any way, shape, or form i mainly desire a superhard edge so i dont waste time sharpening whilst skinning deer or elk.
I've found that you should grind the ridge off the file before forging because it cracks along the ridgelines when quenched.
Did you quench it in oil or water? <br>High carbon steel like files should be quenched in oil, and tend to crack in water. <br>Any used motor oil should work.
used diesel motor oil, full quench at non magnetic after 3 normalizations
Quenched in oil, Just wanted dome of the rasp details to show. Went through 3 rasps before I got one to quench wthout crackiing.
it was a rather fine-toothed file, so it didnt crack on me when i forged it. when i use rasps and double-cut files i do pre-grind to prevent that.
No coal? No problem! <br>Use lump charcoal.It's cheap, easy to light, burns hot, readily available and you can make it yourself. <br>Google it to find out more.
way ahead of you. that is my own hardwood lump charcoal in the picture, i just say &quot;wood&quot;
i made mine myself, using an instructable on this site
Thanks for the feedback!
I'm sorryI meant ridges

About This Instructable




Bio: i love blacksmithing, am a christian, and enjoy viking culture and weaponry. my favorite musical genre is metal, i play a four-string bass, and my ... More »
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