What did I make:
Here, I decided to make some blacksmithing tongs. It was over a multiple day process of heating and smashing some rebar. The cool thing about this project is that these tongs are going to go towards more projects, such as forging knives, forging more tongs, or forging some sculptures. With my humble little blacksmithing shop, I am pretty pleased with myself. This is especially considering the fact that my forge is just an upside-down hubcap and my anvil is a piece of railroad track (a darn good one at that).

How did I make it: 
Using the tools mentioned in the instructable, I took a piece of rebar, cut it in half, flattened it out, and forged the arcs. I worked by myself the whole time, and managed to burn my hand on the hot metal pretty badly. As one can imagine, that taught be to always wear my gloves. The idea of this came to me in the desire to have a more efficient way of holding hot metal, other than pliers. The actual design of the project is as simple as I could find, making an awesome first project. 

Where did I make it:
I made these tongs in my humble blacksmith shop, in my backyard of my home. Because I like the idea of blacksmithing, hunting, hiking and travel, making tools is naturally attractive. When I go hunting with my uncle, I want to have a good skinning knife. What better way to know your knife is reliable than to make it yourself, anyhow?

What did I learn:
Other than always needing to wear gloves to avoid 3rd degree burns, I also learned that good charcoal makes for a much hotter forge. I also learned that silicon under the anvil deadens the sound. Finally, and most importantly, that blacksmithing is something I really enjoy doing, and it is a tangible hobby. 

In order to finally be "accepted" as a blacksmith, one needs to make their first set of tongs. I am in that process, and am documenting it for the sake of other aspiring forgers. The things that will be needed for this project are:

1) Rebar or any other piece of thin metal (Note: This guide is made for those using rebar, since it tends to be more readily available.)
2) A Hammer (easiest if a Cross-Peen.)
3) Forge (Here is a good DIY tutorial if you do not have one.)
4) Channel Locks or Vice Grips 
5) Anvil (Railroad track works excellent. It is what I use.)
6) Gloves, eye protection, ear-plugs (Those anvils are LOUD!)
7) Rod for Bolting
8) Axe Head/Chisel  

If you have all of these supplies, you are ready to begin!

Step 1: Preparing the Rebar

Once you have the rebar, in order to ensure accuracy, measure how long you want each handle of the tong to be. For me, half of the rebar worked just fine, but for some, you may have to do some trimming. Leave yourself some wiggle room, as the process of drawing out the metal will cause it to elongate. 

Go ahead and heat the rebar in your forge on the area that needs to be cut. To save yourself from pain in the future, try to cut the rebar perpendicular to the two seams. For the rest of this project, flatten the rebar along these seams as well, as they will be a natural guide for where the edge will be. 

Once it is cut, you are ready for Step 2.
<p>A hubcap for a forge? Doesn't that burn through pretty fast? Have you tried using an old truck brake drum? Might hold up better than a hubcap. One guy I saw used an old stainless steel kitchen sink he got from a junkyard; he lined it with refractory cement. He said that worked really well. I'm working on a brake drum forge myself; I found a local auto repair shop that said &quot;help yourself&quot; when I asked about a brake drum. Didn't even charge me for it. He sort of had a &quot;why the heck would you want that&quot; expression. </p>
How well do your tongs work? Nice 'ible. Thanks
<p>I am just as curious, I wonder how well rebar tongs work, I was thinking of making my own.</p>
Did you quench the tongs? Or did you just let them cool? I have seen them quenched before and I was just wondering what method you used and how well it's performing. Thanks -Matt
<p>Quenching will make your metal harden and can cause it to crack if you try to alter it. &quot;Annealing&quot; or letting them cool is both what makes the metal &quot;bendy&quot;, a good mix between the two is most likely what you want. Personally, I'd let em cool slowly.</p>
<p>No, I let them sit in the ashes of used coals.</p>
Did you heat the bolt and then rivet it?
<p>Yes, that is how riveting is done. </p>
<p>could you not flatten the entire length of rebar so the handles are round? Great instructable, I have a near identical anvil. </p>
<p>Sure you could, you would just have to bring it to a flat at the portion that is bolted together and bring that flat back a ways in order that they dont bump eachother and loose valuable gripping strength.</p>
<p>What was the axe head / chisel for?</p>
<p>You heat up the metal and use the axe-head to cut it by having a buddy (or vice) hold the axe on top of the anvil with the blade upward and then placing the metal on the blade and then striking it with a hammer in order to cut it. And I think by chisel he means a an awl or a hole punch for the metal.</p>
do you just rivet the bolt in there? and do you quench the tongs, or does that make them too fragile?
<p>Yeah, I just riveted! And no, I didn't quench, I let them sit in the ashes of used coals, which lets them cool gradually rather than rapidly. </p>

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