Step 5: My new Aluminum Ramming Tool

This was the hardest part for me, WAITING.  I poured the molten aluminum into the flask and the left overs into the slim ingot tray that I made. I let it cool down and then I opened it all exicited to see a beautiful new tool to add to my collection. My new Aluminum Sand Rammer.
I cut off the extra metal from the pouring spout and from the vent hole. After I gave it a light grinding and cleaning and it is ready for use.
Hey, this is a great tutorial. Thank you very much! <br> <br>I do have some tips for people who want to cast some detailed parts using petrobond. I'm by no means an expert but my skills in sand casting have recently improved and I thought I'd share. <br> <br>- First of all, use a screen to sift the sand while covering the pattern with the sand. A typical kitchen strainer works great for this. Not only I tried casting for ages without doing this but got really poor results. The difference in casting quality between a sifted cast and a non-sifted cast is night and day. It cut down on imperfections by about 95% I'd say. This really doesn't matter much for this kind of instructable(a large tool), but if you're trying to quickly cast something small, you have to sift the sand. No other way around it. <br> <br>- When ramming the sand, ram it HARD! <br> <br>- Aside from professional-grade stuff, chalk makes the best parting dust in my opinion. Many people use talcum powder and it usually works fine, but chalk works even better because it doesn't absorb water or oil. You can get little bottles of finely powdered chalk from virtually any hardware store. <br> <br>- Cover any part of the mold that becomes exposed to the air at any point with parting dust. This helps prevent parts of the petrobond sand from crumbling off and contaminating the negative impression in the mold. <br> <br>- Once you have taken out the pattern from the mold, use an air duster can to blow away any little rogue specs of sand that can ruin the mold. <br> <br>- This isn't all that necessary, but heat treating the important part of the mold with a torch for a few seconds can help the negative pattern stay more solid. Again, not all that important, but it can make a difference if some imperfection in the mold breaks off when the molten metal rushes through. <br> <br>- For small parts, removal of the pattern can be extremely difficult without screwing up parts of the mold. If you have a pattern that's not too delicate, the best way to remove it from the mold is to use cyanoacrylate glue to glue a little piece of wooden dowel to the exposed part of the pattern. As soon as the cyano dries, pull on the dowel to pull out the pattern.
Thank you :-)
Can't wait for &quot;part 4&quot; :-) Consider me subscribed.<br> <br> Bonus... you have a spare wooden ramming tool for when you get a visiting sandcrab that wants to join you in your work.<br> <br> <br> On a Halloween note, &quot;first look after cleaning the dirt off&quot; sure does look like the beginnings of an awesome sci-fi blaster gun.<br> Very Pew-Pew!<br>
<strong><font>Thanks for your comment, it does actually look like some sci-fi gun, Thats a cool idea to make some blaster pattern and cast it from aluminum.</font></strong>
Nice, I'm always amazed at this because the end result always turns out the same as the beginning.<br> <br> Obviously that comes standard, but some how always impresses me. :D

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Bio: I have too many hobbies and never enough time <(°¿°)> My Metal Casting blog: www.flamingfurnace.com My Paracod projects blog: www.paracord-projects.blogspot.com-
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