Introduction: Fountain Pen Problems

Picture of Fountain Pen Problems

Fountain pens float effortlessly over the paper when everything is working as it should. That is one of the reasons why people who prefer fountain pens really like them. But they can be difficult when something is not as it should be. They can be scratchy. Ink flows poorly or not at all. And, they may put out too much ink, even in the form of a sudden blob of ink that runs over a document and onto clothing. These problems are not inherent to all fountain pens, but occur in pens needing a little tender care to keep them in sound working condition. Fortunately, all of this is much easier than a person would think.

The pen shown is from a Classic American kit sold by Woodcraft.  The pen is reminiscent of a Parker Duofold from the late 1920's and early 1930's.  The color pattern is very similar to one used on Duofold pens. 

Step 1: Making It Flow If Dried Out

Picture of Making It Flow If Dried Out

A couple of Instructables advise soaking the nib and feeder (the section) in cool water for a day or so to remove old dried ink from the ink flow path or capillary system. Actually, a good flushing of the capillary system like this is advised every month. Another good practice is to add a little moisture to ink held in the nib and feeder that may be partially evaporated after a few days of non-use. Get a drop of water on your fingertip and touch it to the slit between the nib's tines.  If the pen has been sitting unused for more than a few days, add two or three drops of water,  Let it soak in. If you do not write with the pen immediately, the water can mix with the ink under the nib more thoroughly. Do this once a week and as necessary.

In more severe cases, as when ink has been left in a pen during several weeks of non-use, cup your hand under a faucet and fill it with water. Quickly dip the whole section into the water in your hand and remove it. Cap the pen and carry it in your pocket for an hour or so before using. If the writing is light in color, touch a facial tissue to the nib and feeder a few times to remove excess water or watery ink.

Fountain pens like to be used regularly.  If you are not going to use a pen for a while, empty the ink from it and flush the pen with water until no discoloration from ink appears.

Do not mix inks from different manufacturers.  They sometimes react with each other and form chunky, gelatinous material that clogs the ink passageways.   Use fresh ink that has been tightly capped or fresh cartridges.  Purists fill the air space in an ink bottle with an inert gas like nitrogen before putting the cap onto the bottle.  They do this to keep the ink from oxidizing.

Step 2: Smooth a Scratchy Pen

Picture of Smooth a Scratchy Pen

A magnifying glass of about 3x to 5x is a big help when tuning up a fountain pen. The drawings below are a little out of proportion for the sake of illustration. They show a fountain pen as viewed from the end of the nib. The left portion shows a pen with properly aligned tines. The two halves of the iridium ball are aligned and the pen will write smoothly. The pen on the right may have been dropped or mishandled. For whatever reason, the halves of the iridium ball at the tip of the nib are out of alignment. The pen will scratch  as it moves across the paper. With your fingernails press down on the high side and upward on the low side. Check your progress often with your magnifying glass. If the nib is stamped from steel, it should respond well to pressure from your fingernails. If it is a springy steel, it is designed to flex with varying pressures from your hand and add expression to the varying width of your strokes. Springy steel is also more difficult to press into a new shape. (The blue center is ink waiting to flow.)

Any fountain pen will write more smoothly as you use it and the nib becomes more polished through contact with the paper, as well as wearing in to the pattern of your hand and your writing. Exceptions are attempts to write on poor paper ill suited for a fountain pen and some cheap pens with poorly constructed nibs.

If the pen is hard to start writing and needs extra pressure, but then writes pretty well with normal pressure, the problem may be that the slit between the tines is uniform until the area at the iridium ball.  If the nib is bent so the tines spread from one another at the ball, ink is not available to the paper where the ball touches the paper.  Examine closely with a magnifying glass.  Carefully squeeze the two halves of the ball with a thin nose pliers until the slot between the tines is uniform again.

Step 3: Space Between the Tines

Picture of Space Between the Tines

This Waterman pen let too little ink flow. One day I put my finger on the upper side of the nib and pressed down against a hard surface a bit. It was just enough to spread the slit between the nib tines a little and the ink flows as it should now.  Be careful when doing this, though, lest the space between the nib and the feeder increases too much.  See step 8.

The Wahl Eversharp pen company once made a pen with an adjustable slot between the tines.  This controlled the amount of ink available to flow onto the paper.  In effect, it made one nib function as a medium or a fine point.  See also step 6 for bringing the tines closer together.

Step 4: Distance Between the Tines

Picture of Distance Between the Tines

The proper distance between the tines depends somewhat on the viscosity of the ink you are using. Different pen makers specify different inks because they design their pens for a certain viscosity of ink. Some inks may be too thick to work properly in some pens. I sometimes add a little water to thin the ink so it flows better in a particular pen. The proper distance between the tines is about the thickness of a piece of copy paper. If you use a feeler gage, 0.003 of an inch is about right.

Step 5: Another Way to Spread the Tines

Picture of Another Way to Spread the Tines

The tines on this Parker were a bit too close together. The nib is springy. The nib assembly unscrews from the section. The nib does not slide away from the feeder as on most pens, but is attached to it with tabs. A jeweler's screwdriver can be used to push the tabs away so a feeler gauge can be used to spread the tines a little. In this case I chose to use a feeler gauge rather than merely pressing on the front of the nib.  But, trying to spread the tines by twisting a feeler gauge in the slot can result in making a "V" at the tip between the halves of the iridium ball.  See step 2.

Pens have their individual personality. A friend gave me another pen just like this one, but for the color. This pen needs a little pressure to make sure the pen does not skip when crossing a "T". The other pen does not skip under the same conditions.

Step 6: When the Tines Are Too Far Apart

Picture of When the Tines Are Too Far Apart

A local stationery store had a Namiki Vanishing Point fountain pen on display for customers to try. Someone unfamiliar with fountain pens pressed hard on the point when the ink had dried and splayed the tines badly. The owner later gave that pen to someone who worked in the store. He and I talked about what he could do. Rest one of the tines on a hard surface. Move a round steel rod over the other tine along the length of the nib's slot. Turn the pen over and repeat on the other side. Use some pressure. Check the results as you go. This is called burnishing and with it you can move the tines back to their proper clearance.

Step 7: Feeder to Nib Clearance

Picture of Feeder to Nib Clearance

Fountain pens operate on the basis of a controlled leak. Key to this is the right amount of contact or clearance between the nib and the feeder. You should be able to pull a piece of copy paper between the nib and the feeder while feeling a fair amount of drag on the paper. When the nib and the feeder do not properly fit one another, several problems occur. Ink does not flow, or the pen leaks. The pen may be hard to start an ink flow.

Step 8: Restoring Proper Nib to Feeder Fit

Picture of Restoring Proper Nib to Feeder Fit

Feeders are usually made of plastic. In vintage fountain pens from the 1920's and before they were often made of hard rubber. The good news is that both of these can easily be reshaped with heat. Some use an alcohol burner. I find it much safer to use very hot water.

Fill a measuring cup with a couple of inches of water. Place the cup into your microwave and heat the water until it begins to boil. Remove the cup and hold the nib and feeder in the water for 15 seconds. Remove the pen from the water and press the feeder against the nib. Use moderate pressure. Hold the pressure on the feeder until you are certain it has cooled. This could be about 15 more seconds. If you do not get it right the first time, you can repeat this process as many times as needed.

Step 9: Scratches or Nicks on the Feeder

Picture of Scratches or Nicks on the Feeder

It is important that there be no grooves on the top of the feeder where it fits against the underside of the nib, or air will leak into the system. You can paint any unwanted grooves with clear fingernail polish. When it is nearly hardened, place a piece of paper on top of a flat hard surface, like a glass table top. Turn the feeder over and move it across the paper while holding the feeder down against the paper. Twist the pen as you move the feeder across the paper. The paper will provide a little bit of an abrasive surface to make the top of the feeder smooth.

My wife gave me this Diplomat pen one year for Christmas. She said she got a really good deal on it. I could never get it to write. I thought too little air was able to get back into the reservoir (a cartridge), so I made a big mistake and cut a small groove from the channel in the feeder to the outside. Later I had to fill the small groove with fingernail polish and use paper on a hard surface to smooth it. Then I had to fix the real problem, which was a poor feeder to nib fit (see the previous step). Now it is one of the better pens I own and a pleasure to use.

Step 10: For Left-Handed People and Others

Picture of For Left-Handed People and Others

This is a Namiki Vanishing Point fountain pen. When the nib is extended for writing, the pocket clip comes between the user's thumb and first finger. Left-handed people tilt a pen a little, and that makes using a Namiki Vanishing Point pen difficult. In the days when fountain pens were very popular, it was not uncommon to have a point ground for a left-handed user. You can still get pens made for left-handers. Lamy makes one. I used a very fine knife sharpening rod to grind the point so it works much better for my left-handed writing. I held the pen as if the surface of the sharpening rod were a piece of paper and moved the pen as if I were writing. Check what you have done often with a magnifying glass. The disadvantage of grinding on the point is that the surface of the point is not as smooth, even though this improves somewhat with use.

See the second photo. Namiki produced a revision of this pen with a fatter barrel. It is easier to hold, but I do not have one. I went to the local hardware store and bought a short piece of 1/2 inch ID clear vinyl tubing. I cut about 1 1/4 inch from what I bought and slipped it onto the pen where I hold it. That seems to work quite well for me, although I may need to remove it if I want to use the pocket clip.

Step 11: Other Concerns for Left-Handers

Picture of Other Concerns for Left-Handers

I have a Schaeffer pen that came with two flats molded into the section. This may be ideal for a right-handed person, but it almost ruins the pen for a left-handed person. I painted over the flutes with clear fingernail polish and let it dry. I added several layers until the section was built up and I could shape it as if the flutes never were there. The pen is easy for me to use, now. (See the yellow rectangle for where the fluting was. You can still see a little irregularity on the surface of the polish.)

Many of the things I learned and described in this Instructable came from my own experience. Some came from Frank DuBiel's "Fountain Pens: The Complete Guide to Repair and Restoration." Some came from: > Masterclass.


Snowfyre1 (author)2017-11-14

Thank you for this. I have a Parker fountain pen (my first real one) and I have not used it for a while and it didn't work. Going to try some of these and see if I can get it working

tristant (author)2017-07-03

Thanks for your Guide! I had a Black Pilot Metropolitan pen that I loved very much but hadn't used in months. Being the idiot I am, it was also filled with ink during those months, which dried. I gave it a proper clean out, but it refused to write properly, quitting and leaving only scratches in the paper mid sentence. I resigned myself to simply having my ink bottle handy and using it as a dip pen until I had time to get it properly fixed. (this worked well-ish) Well just now had a spare few minutes, and your guide is the first I came across. I skimmed the comment section and started to get the idea that the problem was a bad nib-feeder fit based off of similar accounts. Sure enough, I followed your instructions(and poured myself a bit of tea while I had hot water) and now it writes better than before. Thanks a lot for your helpful and insightful guide.

Phil B (author)tristant2017-07-03

Thank you for your comment. I wish I could say the information about nib to feeder clearance was my own, but it was borrowed as I indicated. I am glad it was useful to you. It is such a great feeling when something did not work, but you are able to make it work better than ever at little or no expense.

elspethgcowie (author)2017-05-25

Thank you for this! I discovered the day before an exam that I'd left my pen in my bag throughout the month-long university holidays (bad move, I know) and it had dried up. The dipping in water trick seems to have worked, as did the paper for fixing the nib-to-feed skipping issue I'd been having. Thank you for saving my academic career!

Phil B (author)elspethgcowie2017-05-26

Thank you for your comment. Welcome to Instructables. You are the first to claim I saved your university career. You sound smart and resourceful enough to have made it without me. I wish I had thought of the things you found helpful, but I borrowed them from someone else and assembled them in one place.

JamesR409 (author)2017-03-25

Hello. My pen will twist clockwise and counter-clockwise, but it won't open at all. I tried soaking it in warm water, but it didn't do anything. Is there a way I can fix it?

Phil B (author)JamesR4092017-03-26

Does it pull apart rather than unscrew? I am unsure if you are trying to unsere the cap from the barrel, or the barrel from the section, or the nib and feed from the section.

JamesR409 (author)Phil B2017-03-29

It is supposed to unscrew. I can't unscrew the barrel from the section. This problem occurred after few days since I've changed the ink.

Phil B (author)JamesR4092017-03-30

How many days elapsed between changing the ink and failure to unscrew? Does your pen use a cartridge or does it draw ink into a bladder of some type? One possibility is ink leaked, got into the threads, dried there, and acts like a glue holding the threads. Another possibility is the section was simply screwed into the barrel to tightly.

JamesR409 (author)Phil B2017-04-01

About a week passed, the pen uses a cartridges. I have tried putting the pen in water so that it would dissolve the ink, but even once the ink came out, I still wasn't able to unscrew it. I can twist the section both ways, but it doesn't do anything, it just twists but doesn't unscrew.

SherryG39 (author)2016-11-30

Thanks! The water worked like magic!

Phil B (author)SherryG392016-12-28

I am glad. Thanks.

Phil B (author)SherryG392016-11-30

I am glad. Thank you for the report.

EmmaCraig (author)2016-12-26

Thank you so much for the tips! I'm new to writing with a fountain pen and after not using it for a couple weeks, my pens were no longer working. This was the first post that Google found for me and I can't wait to try your technique. I'll definitely be cleaning my nibs more thoroughly from now on!

Phil B (author)EmmaCraig2016-12-28

After years of using black ink, I opened a bottle of dark blue ink I had bought on a close out sale. To my surprise, it can go for a long time without the pen being used and the ink still flows. That would not be the case with the black ink I have always preferred. So, there is a difference in inks, too. In general though, fountain pens like to be used (and cleaned) often. Thank you for your comment.

Tatumsa (author)2016-11-30

Hi there,

I have a Parker Sonnet fountain pen with a broadish nib. My issue is that the ink comes out too fast when I begin writing so that you cannot tell that is has thick/thin lines and very dark due to the amount of ink coming out. After a couple of minutes of writing the ink flows normally.

I do not write with it every day, but seem to go through cartidges more often than I think I should. I keep the pen nib-up in my bag or laying flat in my keyboard at work. I flush it all out every so often - the nib can be unscrewed.

I am a bit frustrated at seening very dark scripet eventually flowing into a normal style. And if I pause for a moment, the ink flows faster again.

Any ideas?

Thanks a lot,


Phil B (author)Tatumsa2016-11-30


It sounds like a poor fit between the nib and the feed. See the text and photos of the Instructsble around step 7 on how you can use very hot water to soften and reset the feed in relation to the nib. Flushing the pen regularly as you do is a good idea.

HermanT8 (author)2016-11-16

My vintage Pelikan 400NN stops writing after a while and I have to prime the feed every time it happens. Otherwise it is juicy and smooth. When I uncap it, it writes right away, then stops after a while, which is not always at the timing. I wonder if there is some permanent solution to this.

Phil B (author)HermanT82016-11-16

First, I would flush the pen thoroughly in water at room temperature. It could soak. There may be ink dried in the passageways. Also check the nib to feed fit. Renew the fit as described in the Instructsble. Most pen problems come from a poor nib to feed fit.

Fato123445 (author)2016-01-02

My Parker victor pen won't open at all
What shall I do???

Phil B (author)Fato1234452016-01-03

You probably mean Parker Vector pen. I assume you mean you cannot unscrew the front (section) from the barrel behind it. Someone probably over tightened it. Get some soft rubber pieces like are used to open stubborn jars. Grasp the two parts as firmly as possible and unscrew. You could use a pliers or two with the soft rubber, but the teeth may press through the rubber to leave scratch marks. The Vector I have can and does crack on the end of the plastic parts. Unless yours is a fancier Vector, those are not expensive and can be replaced, unless there is sentimental value.

friscosooner (author)Phil B2016-11-11

I have a somewhat similar problem with my Montblanc 146. Somehow the cap has gotten itself on too tight and I cannot get it to unscrew. I have gone as fard as loosening the top cap and removing the clip to try to get a better grip on the cap without damaging the clip, but it still won't budge. Any suggestions?

Phil B (author)friscosooner2016-11-12

Do you know how it got to be too tight? Did it leak and ink dried in the threads, or did someone screw it on too tightly? If it were a nut and a bolt, you would heat the nut to make it expand on the bold and break free. You may be able to use hot water on the cap to do the same. If dried in in the threads is the problem, soaking the thread area in water may dissolve the dried ink.

There is something called a fiberboard wrench. They are used with camera lens parts. They are like a band that fits snugly around the body of the lens section. When the handle is squeezed together the grip is hefty without applying too much pressure in any one place. You might be able to improvise such a wrench custom fitted to your pen and also another for the cap.

friscosooner (author)Phil B2016-11-12

Thanks. I've been soaking the entire pen in water since yesterday. However, the pen has never leaked. I usually wear it clipped along my shirt between the buttons and doing that does sometimes cause the cap to loosen. I may have accidentally overtightened it. Your idea on the wrench is a good idea. I have two of a similar iten in the garage for large items like oil filters. I may see if they will tighten down smaller to fit on the pen.

Phil B (author)friscosooner2016-11-12

I found the wrenches I mentioned, but they have a different name.

YKf26 made it! (author)2016-09-25

I just received a Sailor Four Season (Spring) from a friend and I love it so much. However, I am unhappy since discolouring / oxidisation surprisingly occurred on the cap gold plated ring. Anyone have any idea? I believe my friend bought it as new but I am not sure why it happens, and I wiped it with silver polishing cloth and it only gets slightly better. Now I emptied all the ink and properly stored it in it's original box. Really want to keep it, but not happy as I can't use it often.

Phil B (author)YKf262016-09-27

I am not much help. Somewhere I read that silver polish works by removing a little of the metal to get down to fresh metal. That could work against what you want if the gold color plating is already thin.

YKf26 (author)2016-09-25

Thanks for all these great information though, Phil. Appreciated. I will keep all my pens in good shapes. I really love them all.

EvieJayne2 (author)2016-09-03

Hi, Phil. I have a fairly new pen from a company called Ink. It has a German made iridium nib and uses cartridges. My problem is that the ink doesn't flow consistently. Little pieces of letters aren't there and it regularly just stops working altogether and can take a line or three of writing to get it going again. I have cleaned it every time I have replaced the cartridge and it has been in constant use since I purchased it about 9 weeks ago.

Phil B (author)EvieJayne22016-09-04

Your pen is skipping. It is one of the aggravating things that sometimes happens with a fountain pen. It may be the tines of the nib are too tightly positioned against one another. Sometimes a nib is purposely springy. The idea is that changes in pressure during writing makes your lines wider and narrower for more expression. I have a pen like that, but I do not write that way. I have worked at spreading them gently, not always with full success.

The other possibility is incorrect fit between the nib and the feed under it. I discussed both in the text of the Instructable. Poor nib to feed fit is reputed to cause 95% of all fountain pen problems.

EvieJayne2 (author)Phil B2016-09-04

Thankyou Phil. Both problems were present, the tines were very tight and there was no way I could get a piece of paper between the feed and the nib. I'm so glad I found you instructable.

Phil B (author)EvieJayne22016-09-04

I hope "were present" means both problems are cured now. Thank you for looking.

halleva (author)2016-08-18

Hello Phil. I have a fairly new Lamy Studio fountain pen. When I write, say three full pages or more the pen acts as if the ink converter is empty. Invariably when I open the pen I always find that the converter is still half full. In order to get the ink flowing again I always need to do one of two things. One, push a little ink using the converter's piston/plunger until I see a drop of ink at the nib, or, two, I need to refill the converter completely full. I read your post using the copy paper to test the fit. I can't even begin to get the copy paper between the nib and feed. Could that be my problem? I am using Lamy ink and I diligently cleaned the pen when I first got it (about a month ago). Thank you for your feed back.

Phil B (author)halleva2016-08-18

If there were a problem with the slot in your nib, you would not be able to write two or three pages. Is there an airlock (a bubble) between the ink in the converter and the back of the feed where the converter attaches? You could try a cartridge and see if that works any better. Some cartridges contain a small plastic BB that breaks down surface tension by moving around when you tip the pen this way and that way, and keeps the ink flowing inside the cartridge. I have experimented with cutting a small piece from a relatively thin copper wire, like a BB, and inserted it into a cartridge. You could try that with your converter.

halleva (author)Phil B2016-08-18

That makes a lot of sense Phil. I am going to try a cartridge as soon as this converter is empty, or acts as if it's empty anyways. That should tell me with certainty. Thanks so much for your time and input.

BoyetF (author)2016-07-07

hi Phil. I have an old Montblanc fountain pen. I'm using Montblanc ink. My problem with it is the ink always comes out of the pen even when not in use. Whenever I use the pen I need a tissue to wipe it dry. I always put the pen upside (cap is up) but still the ink comes out. Please help.

Phil B (author)BoyetF2016-07-08

I suspect the feed on your pen no longer fits the nib properly. As I mentioned in the Instructable (quoting someone else), that is the cause of 95% of all fountain pen problems. See the part of my Instructable on restoring the proper fit between the nib and the feed.

ArjunS60 (author)2016-06-15

Hi Phil, I recently purchased a waterman hemisphere from a shop. It writes 4 to 5 lines in the starting very nicely but then after, the ink flow becomes sporadic. The ink keeps getting lighter and lighter and after a certain time it becomes irritating. Please help me.

Phil B (author)ArjunS602016-06-16

You can try flushing the pen with water. Anything more than that may void your warranty, which means you may want to pursue warranty service or at least speak to the seller to see if he can offer any assistance. If the warranty is of no concern to you and you are willing to forfeit it, you can work your way through the procedures I explained in the Instructable. It could be oils and debris may remain in the ink passageways and the pen will work properly after a period of use. Or, it may be that the fit between the nib and the feed needs to be adjusted. It may be the tines are too close together.

AlexR211 (author)2016-06-10

Hi Phil,

I am having some problems with my TWSBI 580 (Broad nib). It was very scratchy and dry. I polished the tip (now is very smooth) and opened the tins using brass shins, but the problem is that now it is too wet. I tried to close the tins just pushing them together, and tying them with a thread, but looks like the nib is too hard and also flexible so the tins are not closing. What could I do?

Thank you very much for your time.

Phil B (author)AlexR2112016-06-10

Thank you for the photo. It sounds like you have a good grasp of the problem and the solution. Did you try burnishing with a round rod like I showed in step 6?

AlexR211 (author)Phil B2016-06-10

I will try the burnishing. Thanks a lot Phill

TonyY16 (author)2016-05-28

Hi Phil, I have a FC Ondoro, and using the Sailor Jentle Green ink. I haven't used it for a few weeks and inked it up yesterday, and now the colour of the ink is much darker on paper compared with before. Any ideas as to why? Thanks!

Phil B (author)TonyY162016-05-29

Some of the water in the ink has evaporated leaving a thicker concentration of the pigments. The plastic walls of the ink cartridges appear to be very solid, but water still evaporates through them in time. I have some ink cartridges that sat unused for a very long time and, although they were never opened, they appear only half full. You might try a syringe or very thin eye dropper to introduce some water into the cartridge. Then shake or tumble the cartridge to mix the water and the ink. Some cartridges have a small solid object inside that moves when you tilt the pen to keep the ink mixed. The ink in the pen passageways is thicker, too. You might flush the working parts of the pen with water, just to keep them clear of blockages.

TonyY16 (author)Phil B2016-05-29

Oh but I'm using a converter at the moment. Maybe I'll try cleaning out the nib?

Phil B (author)TonyY162016-05-29

if only a few weeks have elapsed, the ink in the system between the converter and the tip of the nib may be the only part that has lost water. Still, I have not had much success with those converters. Most have leaked on pens I have known. That means there can be an exchange of ink and air. Myself, I prefer to use a syringe or an eye dropper fitted with a very thin tube to refill cartridges.

JTFoil94 (author)2016-05-27

Hi Phil,

I've got a lamy vista and I've been using it for a few months now with no problems. Recently however it's started to stop writing intermittently (once every few words for 1/2 - 1 letter) I've tried thoroughly cleaning the nib to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)

Phil B (author)JTFoil942016-05-27

Are you using ink cartridges, or refilling with a converter? If you are refilling, there is always the possibility the ink is old and gelatinous or granular material in the ink gets into passageways and restricts ink flow. I mentioned I once mixed inks from two manufacturers and gelatinous material formed. You could always heat the feed until it softens and gently press it against the nib (as I described) in case something happened, but that seems odd in a fairly new pen.

Pen07 made it! (author)2016-05-18

Hi Phil!

I recently bought an ink pen from 'Non-Violence' foundation of Mahatma Gandhi in India. It comes with inbuilt cartridge which has to be refilled, pl. see picture, no pre-filled cartridge can be attached (I tried several).

Now the problem is that every time i refill, the pen writes only for the time the nib is wet (because of being wet during filling process). Later, the ink gets stuck in the cartridge (doesn't drops) & stops writing. If I open the pen and push down the sliding button (which is meant for ink filling), only then does the ink moves down and the pen writes again but later stops because of ink getting stuck in cartridge and not moving down. I believe there is some manufacturing error because of which there is vacuum in the refile compartment and hence the ink doesn't moves down after being filled. Kindly help.

Phil B (author)Pen072016-05-18

Thank you for the photos. What you have is normally called a converter. Your pen accepts a cartridge, probably a Mont Blanc or universal cartridge. Or, a converter can be used in place of the cartridge. Just remember that 95% of all fountain pen problems are due to an incorrect fit between the feed and the nib. See the step in my Instructsble that deals with heating the feed and pressing it gently against the nib until it cools. Some use an alcohol flame. Water near the boiling point seems safer to me. I am fairly certain if you refit the feed to the nib your pen will work fine, and you can use cartridges or your converter. Those converters always leaked for me.

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