Fountain Pen Problems

 by Phil B
Duofold kit2.jpg
Fountain pens float effortlessly over the paper when everything is working as it should. That is one of the reasons why people who prefer fountain pens really like them. But they can be difficult when something is not as it should be. They can be scratchy. Ink flows poorly or not at all. And, they may put out too much ink, even in the form of a sudden blob of ink that runs over a document and onto clothing. These problems are not inherent to all fountain pens, but occur in pens needing a little tender care to keep them in sound working condition. Fortunately, all of this is much easier than a person would think.

The pen shown is from a Classic American kit sold by Woodcraft.  The pen is reminiscent of a Parker Duofold from the late 1920's and early 1930's.  The color pattern is very similar to one used on Duofold pens. 


 
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Step 1: Making it flow if dried out

Water droplet on nib.JPG
A couple of Instructables advise soaking the nib and feeder (the section) in cool water for a day or so to remove old dried ink from the ink flow path or capillary system. Actually, a good flushing of the capillary system like this is advised every month. Another good practice is to add a little moisture to ink held in the nib and feeder that may be partially evaporated after a few days of non-use. Get a drop of water on your fingertip and touch it to the slit between the nib's tines.  If the pen has been sitting unused for more than a few days, add two or three drops of water,  Let it soak in. If you do not write with the pen immediately, the water can mix with the ink under the nib more thoroughly. Do this once a week and as necessary.

In more severe cases, as when ink has been left in a pen during several weeks of non-use, cup your hand under a faucet and fill it with water. Quickly dip the whole section into the water in your hand and remove it. Cap the pen and carry it in your pocket for an hour or so before using. If the writing is light in color, touch a facial tissue to the nib and feeder a few times to remove excess water or watery ink.

Fountain pens like to be used regularly.  If you are not going to use a pen for a while, empty the ink from it and flush the pen with water until no discoloration from ink appears.

Do not mix inks from different manufacturers.  They sometimes react with each other and form chunky, gelatinous material that clogs the ink passageways.   Use fresh ink that has been tightly capped or fresh cartridges.  Purists fill the air space in an ink bottle with an inert gas like nitrogen before putting the cap onto the bottle.  They do this to keep the ink from oxidizing.
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Wisp32 says: May 16, 2013. 6:19 PM
Excellent tip! I was about to give in and buy a replacement nib for my pen which I damaged one day by pressing too hard and splitting the nib. Decided to Google for repairing a split nib first. Glad I found this. The burnishing worked. You, sir, just saved me 60$.
Phil B (author) in reply to Wisp32May 16, 2013. 7:17 PM
Thanks. I am grateful to know you were able to make your pen work again. That tip is something I learned from Frank DuBriel's book on Fountain Pen Repair. Thanks for commenting.

pmadhavu says: May 9, 2013. 9:40 AM
Hi, Madhav here!
Recently I've purchased a sailor supporo fountain pen Fine nib in a n authorised retail stores. The thing is when I draw a line from from left to right it is writing, but for opposite side it is not writing. Same like when I draw a line from bottom to top, it is not writing. I approached retailer, they are saying it is like that only and by start writing continuously it will get smoothen. Is it correct. Pl suggest me because the pen is more expensive for me.
Phil B (author) in reply to pmadhavuMay 9, 2013. 11:37 AM
It should get better with more use. Pens need to wear in to fit your hand. Also, sometimes there are conataminants still in the system that need to clean out. Give it some time.
axc029 says: Apr 29, 2013. 3:32 PM
Hey, I have a montegrappa micra, and i used incorrect ink for it. There was already some montrgrappa ink in the pen when i inserted this incorrect ink. Now the ink flow is very inconsistent, and I think the two ink types have reacted together and agglutinated inside the pen. I have tried running the nib under water until clear. But when I put monetrappa ink back in the ink flow is still very bad. What should I do? Thanks
Phil B (author) in reply to axc029Apr 29, 2013. 4:28 PM
I am guessing your assessment is correct. I mixed two brands of ink in a bottle and gelatinous strands formed on the bottom of the bottle. Pens filled from that mixed ink by means of an eyedropper had clogging problems.

I found a photo of your pen on the Internet. The nib appears rather traditional in style. The Parker pen I show in step 5 has a nib and feeder assembly that unscrews from the front section. If these parts do not unscrew from your pen, they probably pull straight out from the front. But, it may take some gentle and persistent wiggling while pulling. Once the nib and feeder are out, you should be able to clean both, especially the fine channels in which the ink flows by capillary action. Clean under the nib, too. I cannot guarantee anything. I do not think you will break anything, but there may always be a chance you could break something. Once cleaned, the press the parts back into the section and you should be fine. Proceed at your own risk. (That is I covering myself from future blame if anything goes wrong. :-) )
ascii says: Jan 4, 2013. 2:11 AM
Having ground the nib, couldn't you polish it with some 2500 grit sandpaper? In any case, thanks for a very interesting instructable.
Phil B (author) in reply to asciiJan 4, 2013. 6:49 AM
There is an abrasive paper some use called crocus cloth or crocus paper. I do not know how it compares with 2,500 grit sandpaper. From what I read, the abrasive on crocus cloth is not uniform, but clumps up in places. Others prefer micromesh, which is even finer than crocus cloth in some grades. I do not know where you buy either of these. Some use a coarse paper, like that from a brown paper bag to polish a nib, usually with ink in the pen. Thanks for looking.
nanosec12 in reply to Phil BFeb 15, 2013. 4:12 AM
You can purchase Micromesh foam pads and sheets from many woodworking suppliers including Woodcraft and Penn State Industries.
traceyart says: Dec 28, 2012. 7:48 PM
Thanks for your reply Phil. I think I squeezed the cartridge too many times trying to move the disk up to the front and cracked it. Now I think I need to replace it. I searched all over the internet and can't find a place to get a replacement. Any tips?
Phil B (author) in reply to traceyartDec 29, 2012. 5:27 AM
Here is a link at Colorsdo Pen.
http://www.coloradopen.com/product/pilot-ink-cartridge/pilot-namiki-fountain-pen-refills
Phil B (author) in reply to traceyartDec 28, 2012. 9:22 PM
Amazon has Namiki cartridges. I think I have seen them at Staples sometimes. Also try Colorado Pen on the Web, or Levenger, too.
traceyart says: Dec 27, 2012. 4:01 PM
I was rinsing out my Namike Vanishing point pen to put new ink in it and while rinsing the plastic ink cartridge, I used a pipe cleaner to clean an ink ring inside it. What I didn't realize is that there is a tiny, black, plastic disk in the cartridge and now i don't know how or where it is supposed to be oriented and if I accidentally pushed it out of place. I can't find any diagrams of it anywhere so I was hoping someone could help me with it. Currently the disk is vertically stuck in the cartridge where the lines are running along it's length. Can anyone tell me how it's supposed to sit in there?
Phil B (author) in reply to traceyartDec 28, 2012. 4:49 AM
Everyone should have a pen that writes nicely, but can take all sorts of pocket abuse. It has been a while since I used my Namiki Vanishing Point pen, but I think the disc originally sealed the end of the cartridge and what you describe is normal. Just ignore the disc unless your pen leaks.
traceyart says: Dec 27, 2012. 3:46 PM
I have several Pilot Varsity disposable fountain pens and they're great. THey're sturdy enough to go in my purse and they write well. I keep my extra nice Namiki pens in their cases.
The ed says: May 20, 2009. 6:06 AM
I have a parker fountain pen, which was my father's and it hasn't been used for quite some time(years maybe). now it won't suck up ink and write. What should I do?
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 20, 2009. 7:44 AM
Chances are it may have been put away with ink in it. If that is the case, the ink has dried out and is plugging things. Try standing the pen on its nib in a glass with an inch or two or water in it. Let it stand for a day or two. If the water begins to turn the color of ink, you will know that is the problem. Eventually the dried ink will leech out and the pen will work again. It could also be that the bladder has cracked, assuming it is not a cartridge pen. A new bladder would then be needed. You can learn how to replace that yourself, but it is some work and some expense. There is also the risk you could break something irreplaceable. Or, you could take or send it to someone who does pen repair. A new bladder installed will probably cost you somewhere between $25 and $50 US. I am just guessing.
The ed in reply to Phil BMay 21, 2009. 4:05 AM
I tried the method of dabbing the nib with a little water and it worked until the water dried up
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 21, 2009. 8:32 AM
That almost certainly means the pen was stored many years ago with ink in it. When you applied a little water to the slot in the nib, you moistened some of the dried ink and the pen wrote briefly. There is more dried ink farther up the delivery system. A good soaking in water for a day or two should clear the system and get the pen working again. You might want to fill the pen with water rather than ink a couple of times and flush it out thoroughly before filling it with ink. Try to flush the pen until the water you expel is clear.
thereasonableman in reply to Phil BNov 20, 2012. 11:56 AM
Phil, Thanks for the advice. My wife bought me Waterman Expert in the late 90's that I haven't used for a decade. I thought it was too gunked up to use anymore, but I put it in a cup of water, changed the water after 1 hour (blue water) then again after 2 hours (still blue water), then left it overnight and was surprised to find the water was clear in the morning. Works as good as new. It flows so well, that no matter how fast I write or swipe the ink just flows - smooth as silk. It also doesn't bleed on the paper I use, so I'm really liking this pen again. Thanks for your advice on fountain pen care. I think it only really needed about 2--3 hours of soaking in water to recover from decade old dried ink. Good to know the pen can be resurrected if need be.
Phil B (author) in reply to thereasonablemanNov 20, 2012. 4:29 PM
I am glad you pen works again and you are enjoying it. Thank you for the report. It probably makes your wife smile to see you enjoying her gift again.
The ed in reply to Phil BMay 22, 2009. 8:14 PM
ok. so I'll soak it for a few days. if it doesn't work, is it something else that is spoilt?
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 22, 2009. 9:10 PM
It pretty much always works.
The ed in reply to Phil BMay 24, 2009. 4:04 AM
ok, I'll try it first
The ed in reply to The edMay 26, 2009. 4:02 AM
Hey, I think I broke the pump that sucks in the ink. Is it beyond repair now?
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 26, 2009. 8:18 AM
If you are not able to get your pen repaired, you still have some options. Because it belonged to your father, you could frame it in a shadow box for a keepsake. Or, you could use it as a dipping pen. You would be limited to writing where you have access to an ink bottle. Dip the pen tip in an ink bottle like they did in the very old days and write a few words before dipping again.
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 26, 2009. 5:22 AM
It is probably not beyond repair. I would take or send it to someone who does fountain pen repair. He probably has parts from some old pens to replace anything you may have broken. He can tell you where you stand and what it might cost. What model Parker pen do you have? If the part that broke is rubber, those are available as new replacements.
The ed in reply to Phil BMay 28, 2009. 5:38 AM
Ok. I don't know the model of the pen. I guess I'll just find some other way to use it. thanks for the help
Phil B (author) in reply to The edMay 28, 2009. 7:18 AM
There are Internet pages that can help you determine what model of Parker pen you have. If your father was born in the 1930s or 1940s, the pen could be a Parker 51. Here is a page on the Parker 51: http://www.parker51.com/51fs.html
The 51 had a bladder and a fill mechanism. The Parker 21 and 45 had a similar external appearance, but either used a cartridge or had a squeeze bladder different from a regular fountain pen. Some other Parker models can be found at: http://www.pensandwatches.com/parker.html
It might also be a Parker 75, although those were more costly. http://www.vintagepens.com/Parker_75.shtml If the pen is older and your father acquired it secondhand, it could be a Vacumatic, maybe even a Duofold. http://www.vacumania.com/website/generationsessay.htm http://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/Parker/ParkerDuofoldFlattop.htm
The Duofolds are still sold new, but are now cartridge pens.
Interestingly, a Chinese company has taken over a Parker factory in China and is making knock-off Parker 51 pens under a different name.
qkhan says: Aug 3, 2012. 9:35 PM
I just bought the very first expensive fountain pen in an effort to keep it for years to come. Its a Parker I.M Fountain Pen. I unpacked it myself from the packing and to my disappointment it doesn't work the way it should. I have attached that quink thing to it and it misses ink on certain angles as I write, and even more disappointing is that it won't even write when I increase my writing speed.

I thought may be it has remained for quite alot of time with the shopkeeper and that the ink inside the quink would have dried and expired. Therefore I decided to replace it with the genuine German made Pelikan ink but all in vain. What to do when you find a brand new pen not fulfilling your needs?
Phil B (author) in reply to qkhanAug 4, 2012. 5:17 AM
New pens often have a tiny amount of residue coating the ink channel from the making of the pen. Any residue can interfere with normal ink flow. In addition, the nib will need to wear in to the way your hand holds the pen. Use the pen regularly for a couple of months, even if that means only writing practice sentences daily to improve your penmanship. After a while the pen's performance will be much more satisfactory and rewarding than it may be now. I know we expect things to work perfectly out of the box, but new fountain pens require break-in time.
lotus1922 says: Oct 29, 2011. 5:57 PM
Great tutorial, I learned lots about how to keep my pens in shape that I did not know before. But I'm having a problem I didn't see addressed anywhere in here: I have Libelle fountain pen that I've always used a piston converter with. I last used it about two months ago and all was well, flushed it out like normal when I was done, etc. But now I have taken it out to use again with fresh ink (I never leave ink sitting in them), and the converter will not draw ink from the bottle when attached to the nib! The converter fills just fine when stuck directly in the bottle, but it does absolutely NOTHING when drawing through the nib. All the fittings check out fine and it has not undergone any trauma--- all it did was sit in its case for two months. What could have caused this?
Phil B (author) in reply to lotus1922Oct 29, 2011. 6:36 PM
Thanks. I have used an eyedropper to fill ink cartridges. There came a time when the eyedropper sucked ink out of the bottle very poorly. Although it did not seem to be a problem, the rubber bulb actually did not fit tightly on the glass tube any longer. I bought a card of two identical eyedroppers and switched the rubber bulb. I did this because I had modified the tip of the glass tube to fit my needs. The old eyedropper worked perfectly again. I suspect there is an air leak between the converter and the pen's section. Could you smear the front fitting on the converter with something like Vaseline for a temporary sealant enhancer and see if that makes a difference? An alternative would be to drip candle wax around the pen where the converter and the section meet. Temporarily reinforcing the seal might give you a clue as to where the problem is.
ticoun says: Jan 31, 2011. 10:07 AM
in fact, it was an adjustable flex nib, going from stiff to extra flexible
dogianto444 says: Jan 10, 2010. 1:12 PM
thank you! you have fixed my fountain pen! 
Phil B (author) in reply to dogianto444Jan 11, 2010. 12:36 PM
I am pleased for you.  What was the problem with the pen and what did you do to it?

I recently discarded some ink that had become a mix of brands and had been in that bottle for a long time.  It is amazing how much better pens work when filled with good ink!  Mixing inks from different makers is definitely discouraged, but I thought I could get away with it.  I had problems with clumps in the ink plugging the pens' delivery systems. 
dogianto444 in reply to Phil BFeb 12, 2010. 5:25 PM
what i did to fix it was do step7 and it worked realy well!!! 
Phil B (author) in reply to dogianto444Feb 16, 2010. 11:15 AM
I wish I could say I thought of that.  I read on a web page I found.  *I thought I had listed the page, but I guess I did not.)  The author of that page said 95 per cent of all fountain pen problems come from a poor feeder to nib fit.  I am not too surprised that was the problem you had.

Thank you for reporting back.  I hope you enjoy your newly useful pen.
Phil B (author) in reply to Phil BAug 3, 2010. 7:56 AM
I added a better introductory photo and step 7 is now step 8.
sharlston says: Dec 10, 2009. 11:42 AM
hey do you know what them catridges aqre called that are like a pump? you dip it in the ink and pump it and insert it like a normal cartridge?it looks like its made of chrome
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