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This is my build version of a free archery target I came across on you tube.This is a Really easy up-cycle project and can be built for free.

This is similar in construction to the layered carpet targets but we will be layering cardboard sections and binding them tight and housing this stack inside a cardboard box.

Step 1: Gather Some Cardboard... Lots of Cardboard...

For this build you will need:
- Cardboard box (Of suitable target size) to use as the Enclosure Box
- Additional Corrugated cardboard
- A knife to cut the cardboard
- Duct tape

The only suitable box for an enclosure we had laying about was one that a crock pot came in and it measures ~14" x 14" x 12".
Luckily I found enough cardboard to fill this enclosure all n all I'd estimate this fairly small target box took nearly 40 square feet of cardboard to fill!
But this also makes for a great project for repurposing cardboard that may get trashed.


Step 2: Cut Filler Sheets & Bale

This step is easy and will take a little time especially if you plan to make a big target.

Simply cut sheets from your filler cardboard the size of the interior footprint of your enclosure box.
Learn from my mistake and be a little conservative. The filler we are making doesn't have to fit super snug to the inside of the enclosure box. If the final bale is too big you will tear up your enclosure or have to trim the bale. I did both.

Once you have a stack of cardboard sheets about 4" thick compress the stack down and tape the bungle together with duct tape.
Tape the bundle along the what will be the side walls of your stack not the target face.

Repeat this step and tape your individual bundles together to make 1 bail the size of your enclosure box.

Step 3: Seal the Enclosure

Once the filler bale is complete place it in your enclosure. I had some plastic shipping material I placed in the bottom of my enclosure to reuse and take up a little space. Also helped the bale fit nice a snug.

Close up the enclosure box and duct tape the flaps using multiple passes.
Next wrap enclosure in tape around side walls , top and bottom to reinforce holding the bale inside compressed.

YOU ARE DONE!!

The target is useable at this point the next step is just to add a little production value.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

Now lets add some production value.
This step is optional but will extend the life of your new free target and it will look sweet.

Start by covering enclosure box exterior with duct tape. I wanted a black target to have good contrast I did not have black tape but I did have some black plastic paint. After coving the box I sprayed the tape black.
The target face will have to be replaced after many uses so cut a panel out of the face and duct taped the along the edge that was left. And around the removable panel. The target panel was then taped back into place. The whole face was painted again and a target image I found on the inter-web was printed on some neon paper I had and hung.

Done!!






<p>I have made this with other variations too. For scrap cardboard, look for furniture or appliance stores. they often have stacks of large pieces of cardboard often heavy duty double or even triple layer. They will frequently allow you to haul off all you want for nothing. (Do ask permission first though, please.)</p><p>Another option that does cost $ but relatively little is available at building supply stores. They sell multiple types of foam in 4x8' sheets often under $10 a sheet. Some of it is pretty tough. Cut in halves they make a 4'x4' square backstop for your target if such is needful. (see photo. Please excuse my shabby condition. That was a quick shoot at the end of a day working in the barn shop. Note also the cardboard target.) Cut into smaller pieces, they can be stuffed into a cardboard box or taped together with duct or packing tape.</p><p>Yet another option is this. We have live stock and chickens and by feed in 50# bags. Some are paper and some are of some woven plastic-like material that is pretty tough. These run roughly about 1-1/2' x 3' and can be stuffed with all manner of material- cardboard, foam or even other sacks wadded up.(such are very difficult to get broad-head points out of however.</p><p>Finally, I have taken and squared out the shot out center of a big foam target and packed it with squares of cut foam sheet and also filled such holes with spray expanding foam though perhaps that last is not necessarily very cost effective. It is however, cheaper than a new, square foam target.</p><p>Now, I don't know how these variations do in terms of sudden or gradual deceleration but my 3 sons and I have shot many arrows, wood, aluminum and carbon but mostly wood- cedar, pine, cane or bamboo, oak and unspecified &quot;hardwood&quot; and have never had an arrow into any of them break, shooting weights between 25-55# recurve, long bows and self bows.</p><p>Just some ideas of my own for whatever worth they may be to others.</p>
Whats the difference in shooting into the cardboard layered or stacked
Shooting 'between' stacked layers slows the arrow down relatively gently. <br>Shooting into a face of a bundle the arrow has to puncture each layer = very fast decel can fracture or weaken your arrows. <br>At lower poundage and if the bundle is not really compacted it may not make a differance.
<p>Hahaha this is perfect!</p>
<p>Super smart...got my son a bow and can see the foam target wont last much longer! :)</p>
<p>works great especially for lower poundages. only problem i had was shooting wooden arrows without a flush point, so i ripped it up within a 100 arrows. works better with carbon tho!</p>
I like It! Might be a good project for me this weekend.
<p>I use phone books. I just toss a bunch of old phone books into a box.</p>
Thanks but I cannot take credit for the idea I first saw this on the boarriorbows YouTube channel. It was fun to build.
<p>Great idea!</p>

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Bio: I work in industrial automation and spend any free time making.
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