1 - It had to fit inside my tiny apartment
2 - It had to be freestanding
This is the story of my bouldering wall, it is an epic tale of trial, struggle and triumph.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
Materials:
(1) Case of beer (You may want more, I can't say that it will aid in construction but it'll sure make it more interesting. For instance while hanging the joists we dropped one of the sides and nearly took out our TV)
(2) Sheets of 3/4" Plywood (3/4 RTD SHTG) @ $17.97 = $35.94
(1) Additional 1' by 8' strip of plywood for the top portion (salvaged from scrap bin) - $4.01
(12) 2'x4'x104-5/8" Studs @ $3.12 = $37.44
(1) Box of 2" Drywall Screws - $6.47
(1) Box of 1.25" Drywall Screws - $6.47
(1) Box of 3" Drywall Screws - Leftover from another project
(40) Climbing Holds with Hardware (ideally you would have around 32 per sheet of plywood) I bought mine here as I've bought some holds from him in the past and have been very satisfied with both the price and quality - http://rockymountainclimbinggear.com/id71.html - $40.00
Extra T-Nuts (typically home walls have a t-nut density of 2.25 per square foot) The holds came with just enough hardware for them so if you want more configuration options you'll need to buy about 100 more t-nuts
(12) Plate Connectors @ $0.76 = $9.12
(4) 90 Degree Connectors (3" Angle) @ $1.23 = $4.92
(8) 2x4 Joist Hangers @ $0.75 = $6.00
Total Materials Cost = $150.37
Tools:
- Electric Drill
- Phillips Head Bit
- 7/16" Wood Boring Bit
- 3/8" Hex Wrench
- Tape Measure
- Protractor (or other angle making aid)
- Saw (preferably a power saw, hand saws are only cool for about 10 minutes)












































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http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/313827_2437495492021_1090746934_32850530_728927533_n.jpg
Very nice! Might attempt one myself, finger boards just don't do it anymore...
One thing, I am concerned for your safety:
[ it might just be the perspective, but the uprights look a bit thin, you used rigid connections, the plans used pinned connection (bolted), the plans wall incline angle looks less steep] ... but I will elaborate:
Buckling might become an issue, especially if your timbers are slightly bent or the ridig end connections are displaced relative to each other: the uprights become prone to buckling failure! The loading of the wall’s weight causes issues in your timber straightness. Knowing that as you progress in climbing, you will be doing more extreme/dynamic movements like dynos/leaps/jumps (jargon varies), thus the forces on your structure might become critical. Even if you weight very little, the dynamic forces you can generate may exceed the critical buckling load, especially if the structure skews with age. Rather adjust the structure now, than hurt yourself later. If the uprights show any sights of flexture/ bending, I would thicken them immediately.
Enjoy and remember to warm up!
Thanks!