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Step 4: Hang Horizontal Joists

For this step you'll most likely want one or two helpers to keep everything square as you hang the joists on the back of the wall. This is an important step because if you do it wrong your wall will most likely collapse. Pardon the lack of pictures while actually hanging the joists but we simply did not have enough hands.

-Fist position the 2x4 where you wanted it to go and secure it with 2 two of the 3" screws going straight through the side and into the 2x4 horizontally.
-Once the stud is in place install the joist hangers by first hammering in the stops and then securing it with 1.25" screws into the side and then with 3" screws into the 2x4. Check the pictures for more detail.

For the top two joists simply screw the connector into the side then up into the 2x4. I also used two of the 3" screws going horizontally through the side and into the joists.

I chose to use 4 horizontal joists for the overhang and 2 joists on top which the plywood sheeting would then be screwed into.
Here you go miaddrums- I've attached my sketches as well (not that they are of any consequence) but also the website I used to calculate the angle and length of sides of the wall for the space I had- hope they help!
<p>Oh ok! thanks! I think you're is a bit taller than the one i created. I'm assuming the units on yours are meters, correct? Thanks again! I'll post a photo of mine once it's done</p>
I did it! Albeit on a much smaller scale and this one really isn't anywhere near as attractive as yours! It's not quite finished - needs painting to cover the watermarks and holds are still missing but I got excited so posted early.,. Only cost me &pound;50 so far as I 'acquired' the ply. Just waiting for t nuts and then need to source some holds cheap. Anyways, thanks for taking the time to post your build- it was invaluable!
<p>Hi Phil!! It looks great! Did you attached it to the wall? Or it stands alone? I'm planning to do one your size.</p>
Hi Natalia, thanks! It's been more than enough to keep me ticking over. It's free standing but is against a wall which counters any sway if I get over excited but it's pretty solid. If you need and more pictures and/or measurements, let me know.
<p>Hi Phil, if you have more photos I'd love to see them! What's the width you have on your stand? 4 feet?</p>
I'll head out to the garage shortly and take some more photos but yes it's 4ft wide. I'm a very average climber so this has been more than enough for training so far- Id like to extend but space limited so will need to move house first.
<p>No worries. I built mine this weekend, but it's 6 foot long and 4 foot deep. I'm placing the plywood on this coming weekend. :)! </p>
Now with some holds!
I've been lurking on this instructable for about a year plus and I finally got to build it today, it was definitely over $150 but definitely worth it. I can't wait to finally get some routes set and add some finishing touches to it :)
<p>Ok, very cool concept, but a few big concerns. Chief among them in the materials.</p><p>Drywall screws are among the more brittle screws available. They should not be used for any kind of load-bearing purposes, especially when the load is you. They&rsquo;re used frequently because they&rsquo;re cheap and easily available, but you really shouldn&rsquo;t be using them for anything but drywall. Just because you have some handy doesn&rsquo;t mean they&rsquo;re a good choice.<br></p><p>Use proper wood screws, construction screws, or even better, deck screws. These will be much tougher and much safer. They may cost a few dollars more, but it won&rsquo;t break the bank.</p><p>Secondly, I&rsquo;d use 1&quot; plywood, not 3/4&quot;. Here again, it&rsquo;s a fairly inexpensive way to beef up the construction a little. Better safe than sorry.</p>
<p>This looks great! Well done completing such an adventurous build in your apartment!</p><p>One addition I would recommend, having built a very similar wall in my garage. I would highly recommend using Liquid Nails or something similar to hold the T-nuts in place on the back of the wall. I had a number of them that would become unseated as I was threading the bolt into them. Then the T-nut falls off, and you have to circle that hole location with a Sharpie as being unusable. Then your friends ask why you have these weird Sharpie circles all over your rad wall. Then your friends go looking for a rad wall with no circles on it. Then you're climbing over on some other dude's wall, and you feel like you're neglecting yours.</p><p>So, just use some Liquid Nails and avoid the problem altogether.</p>
Would 12mm mdf be ok for something like this?
<p>MDF would not work for a climbing wall. It's essentially sawdust mixed with glue that's pressed into a board. The T-nuts would likely just tear right through the MDF. Besides, OSB is usually cheaper, and it's MUCH stronger (usually used for sub-floor in housing construction). So, OSB: yes; MDF: no.</p><p>I just noticed that I'm posting a reply to a 4-year-old question, but maybe it will help someone else. :)</p>
I couldn't tell you for sure. My buddy built an identical wall a few months ago using OSB and hasn't had any problems so far.
How long did this take you?
Hi there I'm in the middle of making a bit of a copy of this plan. Unfortunately i can't get the plywood sheets up to the attic in the whole and have to cut them in halves. Also mine is a bit larger (just over 3 sheets). Does any of you think i need any reinforcements for where the plywood is cut? Or it doesn't really matter? I'm not sure how much structure the plywood is adding to it. Cheers<br>
This is amazing! I am going to have to encourage my husband to build this for himself in our apartment. Thank you so much for this tutorial, and great job!
Major props on this build, man. I work for www.spectrumsports.com and we specialize in building and renting mobile rock walls. I must say this is a brilliant idea and so cheap! What an awesome way to spend $150.
Thanks, it's much appreciated!
I was wondering how you got your plywood so cheap. A 4ft x 8ft sheet costs around $35 from where I've looked. Is your's a slightly smaller dimension or did you get it from a cheaper store? I'm trying to cut costs on my wall. Thanks!
I remember when I bought the materials my dad thought it odd that I got the plywood for so cheap. I'm not sure of the reason for the price difference. For what it's worth, a friend of mine built his wall with 1/2 inch OSB and it has fared well for over a year.
is that a bamboo bike frame in the corner?
Yup!
Have you had any trouble with it falling forward if you get your momentum going to strong back, like on a final top out? I am making plans to build one and was wondering if maybe I should make the supports a bit angled and not straight down, just wanted to see if you have had any problems yet? Thanks!! Love the wall all the same!
I have had the back come off the ground with more powerful dynos to the top but haven't had any problems with it actually tipping over. A buddy of mine who built the wall extended the sides to come out further and prevent this. If I were to build it again I would consider doing that as well but I think I'd have to have to work on my dynos a lot more for this to become a serious issue.
I would like to build a wall that I could have in my back yard, I would like to make it so, it could unfold &amp; be like 12feet, &amp; when closed, it would a. be protected from the environment, &amp; b. could act as an 8ft climbing wall, like those used in boot camp. Unfortunately, 8 ft is probably the height limit, as the co op&amp; city I live in wont allow fences etc over 8 ft. I'm sure paining the outside of the wall could protect it from the elements.
It sure would be nice to have a taller wall but I find that running laps on an 8 foot wall gives a pretty good workout.
I'm thinking of building a shack for my back yard, finding someway to incorporate a climbing wall on one side might be a possibility. If I make the roof slanted rather than pitched, I could take the higher side &amp; extend it further, in order to cover a climbing wall &amp; make it possible to climb horizontally as well as vertically.
Hey man really love this wall. I want to build the exact one you have here. Do you happen to have the exact mesurments you used? I want to build this wall exactly the way you have shown. So exact mesurements would be greatly appreciate! Thanks!
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I kinda just winged it but the bottom 2x4 of the triangle sides measures 4 feet long on the top and 50 inches on the bottom. I cut the vertical 2x4 an inch lower than my ceiling so that I could move it around without scraping the ceiling. I then lined up the two at a 90 degree angle and eyeballed the angles on the third 2x4 (the hypotenuse). I hope this helps!
Nice wall! I love that it's moveable. I built one in my basement about 6 or 7 years ago, and back then, it was hard to find info like this on the web. Thanks for posting. Here's a pic of my wall, I lost about a foot of height when I put in the drop tile ceiling though. (my girls have now taken over the room as a &quot;hang out&quot; room for them) but the wall is still there. <br>http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/313827_2437495492021_1090746934_32850530_728927533_n.jpg
Wow, great wall! I bet your girls don't know they have some world class bouldering right above their heads!
mga12 (read below!) <br>Very nice! Might attempt one myself, finger boards just don't do it anymore... <br> <br>One thing, I am concerned for your safety: <br>[ it might just be the perspective, but the uprights look a bit thin, you used rigid connections, the plans used pinned connection (bolted), the plans wall incline angle looks less steep] ... but I will elaborate: <br> <br>Buckling might become an issue, especially if your timbers are slightly bent or the ridig end connections are displaced relative to each other: the uprights become prone to buckling failure! The loading of the wall&rsquo;s weight causes issues in your timber straightness. Knowing that as you progress in climbing, you will be doing more extreme/dynamic movements like dynos/leaps/jumps (jargon varies), thus the forces on your structure might become critical. Even if you weight very little, the dynamic forces you can generate may exceed the critical buckling load, especially if the structure skews with age. Rather adjust the structure now, than hurt yourself later. If the uprights show any sights of flexture/ bending, I would thicken them immediately. <br> <br>Enjoy and remember to warm up!
Thanks for the concern. I definitely understand where you're coming from but it seems to be holding fine. We've been climbing on it for close to a month now with no noticeable deformation of the uprights though we do tend to get a bit dyno-happy from time to time. I've periodically run a level along them and they are still as straight and vertical as ever. I will continue to keep an eye on them though and will certainly beef them up if I see any signs of warping.<br><br>Thanks!
Good good, just want you to be on the safe side! I have hurt myself on badly built climbing walls: grips breaking/turning, dodgy pading, splinters and cracked panels ect. So stay safe, warm up, get strong &amp; enjoy! Cheers!
what a great idea! How long did it take to put this together?
Thanks, it's hard to say exactly how long it took. We worked on free nights over the course of two weeks or so.
cool. I have long thought about doing something like this, but I was going to put the climbing bits straight into the wall of the bedroom, so you could let go and fall down onto the mattress for lolz. This is even better because you can take it apart and put it away and still have a nice smooth wall. I will very likely try doing something much like this. thank you for this good idea.
How cool...My friend is the one who makes those climbing holds. I remember when he started that company.
This is pretty cool. Don't have space inside my home for this, but maybe up one of my outside walls.

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Bio: I'm Mike and I do what I like. Things I like include pretty much anything outside, beer and economics.
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