Introduction: French Cleat Wall

Picture of French Cleat Wall

saw an instructable on the internet about an french cleat wall

Step 1: The Workshop

Picture of The Workshop

In the old workshop, I had distributed my equipment to various cabinets and shelves. In the new workshop, I brought only the workbench, the plates of the tool wall and plate for the assortment boxes.
So I got heavy duty shelves because they are stable and quick to assemble. These I mounted left and right of my workbench. I used a shelf as an extended workbench to house stationary equipment such as a drill stand, sanding block, etc. The place above should be the assortment boxes.

However, I had to convert the holder for the assortment boxes from upright to transversal in order to make better use of the space.

After I had the basic structure and the layout of the workshop, had to give way to a part again: the French Cleat wall should indeed behind the workbench.

Step 2: Substructure

Picture of Substructure

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I did not want to screw the wedges directly onto the wall paneling for two reasons.

The wainscoting does not make a solid impression on me on the whole height. Since we live for rent, I wanted to damage the vertigo as little as possible. Without it is unfortunately not possible.

So I planned a Querverlattung on which I brought OSB plates. The OSB panels then carry the wedges. I also needed the substructure as a spacer, because the OSB boards should get up on the floor, but there was still a skirting board there.

But where do I apply the decay? The wainscoting is only relatively thin MDF with plastic coating. In a corner of the basement room, where the paneling is not flush, I could see the substructure. So I put on my decoupage, where the substructure also carries the wainscoting.

For my damming I cut boards from my old tool wall, which I could recycle through it. With the dip circular saw on the guide rail that would not have been a problem if the guide rail had been long enough. So I just got on with the second record I had as a stop.

Now it was the case that the height of the OSB boards was not sufficient to reach the uppermost lathing of the paneling. But I wanted to get the OSB boards up on the floor so that the weight of the boards would not hang on the wall. As a result, the upper end of the OSB plates could not rest. From my old tool wall I cut two small square pieces for each OSB board, which I fixed above as spacers under the OSB boards. I chose the screws for so long that they still penetrated into the wall paneling, so that the OSB panels would not move towards the room at some point due to the load on the wedges. I do not think that would have happened, but I am sure.

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Step 3: Cutting Wedges

Picture of Cutting Wedges

I cut slats out of the glue boards. The
width of the slats and width of the laminated wood panels I had chosen so that I have sufficient waste of sufficient strength of the wedge strips. So from the 40 cm wide board I sawed 5 approx. 8cm wide slats (minus the saw blade width). From the slats, I then cut each 2 gullies in another pass. The length of the glued wood panels I have chosen with 80 cm so that I get exactly 3 wedges on the width of my wall.

Step 4: Drilling Wedges

Picture of Drilling Wedges

After I cut all the wedges, I had to drill them to screw them to the wall. To mark the boreholes I got a rest wiper strip from our kitchen worktop just right. The piece happened to have the right length and holes at the appropriate distance. The marking of the holes was thus relatively fast.
For the drilling, I used my drill stand on which I mounted a small stop, so that all the holes sit in a row. On the other hand, I used a drill with countersink attachment, as already for the transverse battens

Step 5: Mounting Wedges

Picture of Mounting Wedges

The width of the wedges with the distance between me and the desired number of rows of strips gave the height from above.
I moved the table against the wall to see that the bottom ledge was still far enough away from the table to be able to use the ledge.

I then drew a reference line for the first row of strips, which I mounted with chipboard screws. For the other rows, I cut a spacer strip of appropriate width, which I always put on the previous row and so always had the same distance. In between, I checked the measure again and again to see if I'm still straight. Nevertheless, I succeeded in the end on the left side a few millimeters higher. It does not bother me, so I left it at that.

Step 6: Bars for the Brackets

Picture of Bars for the Brackets

After the wall was equipped with bars, I also needed bars to hang the holders on the wall.
I sawed them using the same method as the wall strips, but a little narrower, so that they are still comfortable to mount. I chose 6cm for the width of the slats, so it was about 4cm on the wide and about 2cm on the narrow side of the last.

Since I had to build some brackets, I cut several strips in stock. I have noted the settings on the TKS, so that I do not have to start again later to measure and try.

Step 7: Bracket 1 - Pen Holder

Picture of Bracket 1 - Pen Holder

On my old tool wall, I had a pen holder that I simply screwed to the tool wall. I wanted to reuse this holder. This was a simple conversion, as I only had to screw a wedge strip to the back of the pen holder.
A piece of the prepared wedges was quickly cut to the correct length and pre-drilled. The back is made of thin hardboard. For fixing I used small wood screws

Step 8: Bracket 2 - Clamp Holder

Picture of Bracket 2 - Clamp Holder

I also wanted to reuse the pliers holder from the old tool wall. But as time went by, it turned out that the ledge that I used to hang
the pliers broke over time, so I replaced it with a 10mm aluminum tube that I still had in place. In addition, it turned out that the back stiffening of the forceps holder for the French Cleat attachment was unfavorable. In its place, I placed slightly higher directly the wedge bar, which gives enough stability. In the end, I only used the sidewalls of the clamps again. So I have completely dismantled the pliers holder, drilled holes in the sidewalls for the aluminum tube and put the aluminum tube in these holes. Another attachment was not necessary, because the pipe sits quite tight in the hole. At the back I then screwed the wedge strip in the appropriate length and the pliers holder was ready.

With the number of pliers that I have, it could have been a bit wider. However, I did not want to make it too wide, so that the aluminum tube on the length then does not bend so. But I can on occasion just build a second holder.

Comments

jpmarth (author)2017-11-23

A pen holder - genius. Why didn't I think of that?! Nicely done!

MrCraft (author)jpmarth2017-11-28

thank you apreciated

MrCraft (author)2017-11-21

thank you apreciated

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2017-11-21

This looks so much nicer than the peg board that I have set up in my shop.

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