From Tree to Lamp





Introduction: From Tree to Lamp

Step 1: Tree to Lamp

I first cut down a black walnut tree and cut it into sections. Then I took the section I wanted and cut it into the slabwood's

Step 2:

Once I cut them into slabs then I cut them down into the size that I wanted to work with.

Step 3:

To get the shape that you want I found this chainsaw attachment for my grinder. This is a very dangerous to also you will need to wear a face shield and leather gloves. I have made many lamps this way and to get the shape you want it's just how you feel you just have to be sure you don't go deep enough to hit the hole that you drilled for the wiring.

Step 4:

This is just one of the shapes that I've done

Step 5:

Now that you have the shape that you want then I use a random orbit sander starting with about an 80 grit and working my way up to a 220 grit.

Step 6:

This particular lamp is made from Black Walnut so I choose not to use any kind of stain because they're such natural beauty that I don't want to change anything. So I just used five coats of semi gloss polyurethane. In between each coat I Sanded with a 320 sandpaper very lightly just to make sure there's no runs, or drips.

Step 7:

Then I used a 14 two lamp wire and a three way switch ran it through the whole and put a eighth inch nipple in the end and I glued it in so I had something to put my switch on to.

Step 8:

On the base I used half inch rubber bumpers to lift the lamp off the table so I had you can turn it either way you wanted and not worry about the cord.

Step 9:

And now you can enjoy the beauty of your homemade lamp



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    Unless you treat the wood of the lamp with polyethylene glycol, the wood in time will split lengthwise. To prevent this, proceed as follows: cut out the lamp as you have done, from fully green wood, but leave it 1/8th of an inch oversize. Soak in polyethylene glycol solution until fully treated (details available with the chemical, available from wood suppliers). The treatment can require months of soaking, and is speeded with heat. Then dry fully. The drying can be forced, as there is no danger of splitting at this point. Then finish off the 1/8th inch. This removes surface mold and dirt from the treatment. Your freeform design makes this easy. Apply finish, but you must be careful that the finish is compatible. There are details available with the chemical. Your lamp will then never crack or split, no matter how dry it is!

    The larger the hole you drill down the center, the easier and faster the treatment goes (and if you don't treat, lessens the danger of splitting). Also, taking the wood from the side of a large tree will reduce the likelihood of splitting, versus taking it centered in the tree.

    I am curious how well this lamp wood remains split-free over time.

    thank you for the impo. i'll have to look into that.

    If u don't have a chainsaw for ur grinder go to Home Depot and get a flap sander for a grinder.



    Thank you ???? that one made me smile.

    You're welcome.Your work is unparalleled.
    I've got some logs.This is a good idea that i use them.
    Thank you.

    LEDs would be nice for a new lamp. You have plenty of room to fit the power supply inside.

    right now I have the Cree 3 way light in it.

    I love the abstract shape, and the wood grain is absolutely beautiful. Awesome work!