This Instructables is going to be a work in progress... It's not going to be completed yet, but I wanted to get it started now and I'll work on it over the next couple of weeks to make it a comprehensive Instructable...

Here's a video I made explaining the set-up and how it all works. I'll make a better set of videos that detail everything individually in the near future, but this video should work for now.


So if you are interested in the project - like it, favorite it, save it, then check back in a couple weeks and it should be done...

I did all of this on a Rostock Max that I completely redesigned and rebuilt to utilize the diamond hotend and full color mixing with the new Repetier firmware... I built mine around a delta, however, I want to make this Instructables as universal as possible so you can set it up on any machine you'd like... But I'll mostly be covering deltas because that is what I have/use... But a basic Cartesian FDM printer should be no problem also. (It's actually easier, deltas can be tricky)

Sites to follow

Here are my pages/profiles that I'll be referring to a lot... So follow me on them and you'll get updates as I post them

My Thingiverse

My YouTube Channel

If you would like to connect with me on a professional level here's my Linkedin. (I'm always open to new connections, gotta get to that 500+ connection status, LOL)
My Linkedin


Here's what I plan to cover in this comprehensive Instructable

1) Getting the controller board ready for three extruders... I hacked a Rambo board to drive three extruders, however, you can use any board you want... (most people use a rumba due to it having all the pins/components needed for 3 extruders native on the board)

2) Rewriting Repetier firmware to get color mixing working on your machine.

3) How to install, configure, and use the diamond hotend - tips / tricks / lessons learned / etc...

4) My original bowden extruder design and various ways to mount the three extruders for your set-up

5) My universal magnetic effector plate and accompanying hotend mounts for quickly swapping various hotends. (delta specific)

6) How to design multi-color models and making STLs that can be exported and used as a individual STLs or combining them into an AMF file for slicing...

7) Configuring color mixing in Repetier and Slic3r to print above mentioned multi-color models.

8) Anything else I can think of later that I can't think of now.

9) Comprehensive overview of Quantum Mechanical Entanglement as it pertains to multi-color printing (just kidding, I don't understand that shit... But I will cover multi-color printing throughly)

Step 1: Getting everything in order


<p>Do you have a link to the diamond hotend mount you used in your video? You said that you were planning on putting it on thingiverse?</p>
That is awesome! <br>I came across a printer at geeetech.com, this printer 301, mix with 3 colors, i was wondering if it can also print full color<br> http://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-rostock-301-mix-color-3d-printer-p-1008.html
<p>This is awe-inspiring Jason! You mentioned in your colour mixing video that the people who designed the diamond hotend are considering doing a 5 in 1 hotend? Where did you hear this? I can't find any sources about it online. Also if they don't happen to produce a new nozzle have you considered adding flux capacitors to the three inputs on the diamond to double the amount of filaments you are allowed? it's a project these italian makers are working on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:301982. You could add PVA in the sixth channel so you can make some awesome prints that require no clean up. I was also wondering what your opinion is on using this setup once black and white are added as a method to do full colour figurines of 3d scanned people. I'm worried that the transitions colours required to do small details like eyes or lips would waste a ton of filament. The other concern would be the difficulty of getting a slicer to read a .fbx or .ply file and then convert it into ratios of how much each extruder needs to push out filament to meet that colour profile.</p>
pretty amazing.<br>I like how you put all the hot ends into one. I only saw them in a separated setup. Is this possible with 5 for a full colored printer or is this to much to rewrite the code?
<p>You can do 5... It's just a lot going on... But wouldn't be difficult... I plan on doing a 5 lead one in the future which will give me white and black... Then I'll truly have full color</p>
Make it 6, and you can have an alpha channel.
<p>Isn't the CMYK color space the one you need to get a full spectrum? That would require 4 leads. Traditional printers use more colors for additional accuracy but 4 looks like the bare minimum.</p>
<p>CMYK - Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black - is what works on paper printers... But that only works because it utilizes the white of the paper with the mixing... On a 3d printer, you don't have that so you will need a white feed.</p>
<p>you are absolutely right ... CMYKW to the rescue ;)</p>
I'm going to buy my self a prusa i3, from sunhoky I think. I think I will try your idea after I completely understand how everything is working and I'm getting great quality prints... could take some time but yeah, everyone need a hobby.
<p>JJPowelly, </p><p>I am amazed with amount of work you have done with your printers and personal designs! I have a Pursa I3 that I am going to convert the print head to a remote drive like your delta. Could you share the stepper motor drive assembly that you made. I have a MK8 direct drive style extruder and I want to convert it to run a Bowden tube like you did with your drives. I am a little new yet to printing so I hope the above made sense.</p><p> I have found your Thingverse account and I really like all of your night lights too!</p><p>Good work,</p><p>Mark</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I make things, and I sometimes attend classes at Columbia University - but primarily - I make things ~ especially from scratch... Please don't mind the currently ... More »
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