After some thought I came up with a useful, reusable method for easily switching out shaped filters. This method is documented here.
You will need:
* A camera. Any DSLR camera should work; point-n-shoots tend to have quite small lenses so may not work so well.
* A lens for which you know the key measurements: focal length, and maximum aperture. I used a 50mm f/1.8 canon lens. Something with a large aperture relative to its focal length will probably work best.
* Black construction paper
* White glue (Elmer's or similar)
* Scissors & sharp craft knife.
* Pencil, ruler, and (optional) pair of compasses.
* A cheap UV or similar filter to fit your chosen lens (optional) Why? I wanted to be able to permanently stick the filter holder in place without ruining a good lens. I bought the cheapest UV filter I could, about 99 cents on eBay!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Calculations
50mm / 1.8 =~ 27.7
I went with a 26mm diameter to be safe.
You'll also need to measure the inner diameter of your filter or lens body.
Ok, maths over, on to construction.









































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




Bokeh = blurry
I dontt know when the name was re-defined to be another way to emloy shalow depth of field [shallow depth of focus is more precise term].
Virtually any lens over 50mm will give you a very shallow depth of focus, the longer the focal length the more blur.
Shallow/ultrawide lenses have a greater depth of focus, so sharper pictures at any distsnce.
piratemonkey mostly got it right.
I don't understand, how you get the multiple lil' tree effect.
I would love to try this on my DLSR, but I am missing something.
I just made a rudementary version, before I posted and all I get is a normally square framed picture, now framed by the cut-out shape. Not even close to the picture you provided. Could you go into a lil more detail on the actually use of the device. Are you taking multiple exposures? I'm lost.
You might have better luck using either the Av or M setting on your camera, and setting as wide an aperture as your lens allows, and with as great a distance between foreground and background as you can get.
I shoot, I get a one silouette of the slide not a mirade of the shape speckled all over the object being shot.
....
ok I get it now, really only works in dark environments where there are illuminations. For every light on the tree, it is changing the incoming glob illumination in the slide shape.
Good for christmas trees an such, but what else could you use it for?
- light reflecting off water
- sunlight through trees
- distant city lights
I just got into photography and I love this! I made my slide holder removable by cutting it to fit tight and not gluing the holder to the lens filter and putting a piece of tape to pull it off.
I got my gf (she's much better with a scalpol) to cut out a goatskull ( \m/ hehe )
Taken with a Nikon D200 and 50mm 1.4
<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4355332633_a76bfa9046.jpg">
I've also tried this with a 18-70mm 3.5-4.5 but either the 3.5 isn't wide open enough or the 18 is too wide an angle. Would further away lights/smaller cut out help do you think?