I took control of a furby's body using a PIC16F877 microcomputer. Videos on last step.

The furby's in-built sensors and actuators:
light sensor,
IR sensor,
IR transmitter,
tongue touch sensor,
belly touch sensor,

The furby's main (and only) motor was dead, so I added other motors.

Step 1: skin the bastard

Skin the furby (yank its skin up over the top of its head). You'll have to clip a ziptie at the base of the back of its skin first then you'll have to clip little stiches connecting the skin around the face area.

Once it's off you'll see connectors on the left and right of the furbies body, these are the wires connected to all the sensors. You should even see written next to some of the wire connections 'S1' 'S2' (sensor 1 and sensor 2, etc). Figure out which wires go where.

Above the furby's eyes:
-In the center is a light sensor (changes resistance in response to light)
-On one side of the light sensor is an IR emitter (like on your TV remote)
-On the other side is an IR receiver (like on your TV)

On the furby's sides:
-wires from the belly touch sensor
-wires from the speaker
-wires from the tongue touch sensor
-wires from the microphone

solder longer wires onto any sensor wires you want to connect to your PIC, label them.

<p>I wish someone would make a hack program for furby connect! I want to program japanese into mine!</p>
Wow! Intensely scientific!
I'm sorry, man, but this is just WRONG! You turned poor little Furby into a Borg!!
Prepare to be assimilated! XD<br>
It not wrong, it just funny.
I would have LOVED&nbsp;to see that Voyager eppisode, where Seven of Nine meets Fourthosund and seventy two of one point four billion Furby <br />
It eventually happens to everyone,however it happens mostly to people named Jean-Luc and toys named Furby.
Whoa ultra furby....
that's pretty awesome, but let's see if we can take it a bit further: CO2 Napalm Paintball Cannon Tazer Infrared ... be creative
how about we add some of <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSQf7pfepAQ&feature=related">this</a> on furby?<br/>
just pick up 2 pneamatic pumps with 2 taser coils and long wires with a very high votage capisiter do the ir hack its on another instructable and figure out the napalm crap by your self "be creative"
this thing is held together by twist ties, a paintball gun's recoil would probably make it fall apart. tazer would be cool but it would only really work on people with bear feat (I think shoes would be too thick to zap through).
i once got a furbie from mcdonalds, and my brother smashed it with a hammer
my brother could say the same thing lol furbies always freaked me out they're evil you know. nice job making the furby-stein btw
Holy crap dude, you work so messy!
Mate, you should see my desk.
Oui mate, shall you take a picture?
Happy new year, one year on and I find this comment lol<br/>I am just getting back into electronics for gcse =/<br/>Good luck if your still active =]<br/>
It looks like frankin stein gone wrong! P.S. you're old enough to be on instructables.com and you own a furby?????lol! nothing personal!
lol dude what are you talking about furbies frickin rock, you can teach them to swear!!
no shit?! how!!!?
Actually, not to be a party crapper, but they just have a database of words, they just reveal more words over time, but they may have some of those words in there though....
yea but you have to say it like 1000mill times lol....
wicked how cruel ripping his flesh off over his head
Awsome idea, mount this on the Furby - <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Fireball-Shooter/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Fireball-Shooter/</a><br/>lol<br/>
Ha, this thing is so cool! I wish I was capable of making one of these! That would be awesome... ~Shifrin
can i make him say words like "death" and "i will kill you"?
aargh!!!!!!!! its frankenfurby!!!
@mad cat Mine fell to the same fate.... this would've been MUCH cooler tho now all u need to add is a small butane tank, a stove sparker, a electronically controlled valve for the tank, and you have a gaurd for ur room! open the door, and risk 3rd degree burns lol
Hehe...I put a firework in my Furbie.
good job.
this is the maddest thing ive ever seen. (besides the banana phone!) Furbys are creepy and should be burned in a bonfire, not given super-sharp sensors and better motors.
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!1i was right furbies are trying to take over the world!!!! they mustve used computers to get onto hte simpsons!!nooooooooo
How easy would it be to save the furby skin, to replace back on later , install a motion detector when someone walks by or just moves in the room, and reprogram the chip for like to leave it at home and when someone enters the house it will seem like it is reporting the person to the cops via some wireless interface unless they tell their name, etc, as a fake gaurd for you home or something like that, just to scare a guest entering your home or place in the wife's bathroom when she enters early in the morning to freak her out like its posessed with new saying...
somebody sent me a message asking about the details of the supplies needed for the furby hijack project. Here's my reply, hope it helps other people with the same question. This applies mostly to those with little experience in electronics or microcomputers:<br/><br/>The furby project isn't very easy if you haven't used microcomputers before. There are many different types of microcomputers, I used the PIC. PICs are hard to learn how to use in a short amount of time. The best microcomputer to start learning with is the basic stamp (that's the one I learned to use first). The problem with the basic stamp is that it's harder to do analog to digital conversions (necssary to read from the furby's light sensor), but other than that, the basic stamp would be fine for the furby project. HEre's where you could get the basic stamp from:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC">http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC</a><br/>To program the basic stamp you can either build your own circuit to interface the basic stamp with your PC or you can buy a 'module' that makes programming the stamp easy: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=27111">http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=27111</a><br/><br/>if you want to try using a PIC instead of a basic stamp here's where to get it from: go to www.digikey.com and search for PIC16F877-04/P-ND<br/>To program the PIC you'll need a PIC programmer such as this one: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-PIC-Debugger-Programmer-Microchip-icd2-icd-2-mplab_W0QQitemZ300096357766QQcategoryZ4661QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-PIC-Debugger-Programmer-Microchip-icd2-icd-2-mplab_W0QQitemZ300096357766QQcategoryZ4661QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br/><br/>here's where to get the motor controller (H-bridge) from: go to www.digikey.com and search for 497-1389-5-ND<br/><br/>For the motors, you can either use lego motors if you have them (that's what I used) or look for good motors here:<br/>www.allelectronics.com<br/>(for instance: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-261/400/6-20_VDC_MOTOR,_MABUCHI_FK-280_.html)">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-261/400/6-20_VDC_MOTOR,_MABUCHI_FK-280_.html)</a><br/>make sure that the voltages that the motors need can be supplied by whatever batteries you use.<br/><br/>to make the necessary circuits you'll need a <br/>1) breadboard <br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.action-electronics.com/breadbrd.htm?zoom_highlight=breadboard">http://www.action-electronics.com/breadbrd.htm?zoom_highlight=breadboard</a><br/>OR<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PB-1680/search/BREADBOARD,_1680_CONTACTS_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PB-1680/search/BREADBOARD,_1680_CONTACTS_.html</a><br/>2) breadboard hookup wire<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/18RD-100/search/18_GA._RED_HOOK-UP_WIRE,_STR._100&quot;#39;_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/18RD-100/search/18_GA._RED_HOOK-UP_WIRE,_STR._100&quot;#39;_.html</a><br/>3) wire wrap sockets<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.action-electronics.com/icsockets.htm#Hrww">http://www.action-electronics.com/icsockets.htm#Hrww</a><br/>4) wire wrap wire<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.action-electronics.com/pdww.htm#Wire">http://www.action-electronics.com/pdww.htm#Wire</a><br/>5) and a wire wrap tool <br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.action-electronics.com/pdww.htm#Wrap">http://www.action-electronics.com/pdww.htm#Wrap</a><br/>6) wire wrap perf board<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PC-4/search/SOLDERABLE_PERF_BOARD_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PC-4/search/SOLDERABLE_PERF_BOARD_.html</a><br/>7) a multimeter<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DVM-810/search/ECONOMY_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DVM-810/search/ECONOMY_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_.html</a><br/><br/>for more advanced electronics you should have:<br/>8) a soldering iron (may not need it for beginner circuits but it will be useful, especially if you want to make the bump sensor like I did)<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/IR-30/search/30_WATT_SOLDERING_IRON_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/IR-30/search/30_WATT_SOLDERING_IRON_.html</a><br/>9) soldering iron stand<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/50B-205/search/SOLDERING_STAND_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/50B-205/search/SOLDERING_STAND_.html</a><br/>10) solder<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SOL-564/search/1_2_LB_ROLL,60_40_SOLDER,_.032&quot;#34;_DIA_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SOL-564/search/1_2_LB_ROLL,60_40_SOLDER,_.032&quot;#34;_DIA_.html</a><br/>11) perf board<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ECS-1/search/SOLDERABLE_PERF_BOARD,_1_HOLE_PAD_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ECS-1/search/SOLDERABLE_PERF_BOARD,_1_HOLE_PAD_.html</a><br/>12) DIP sockets<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ICS-24N/search/24_PIN,_NARROW_DIP_IC_SOCKET_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ICS-24N/search/24_PIN,_NARROW_DIP_IC_SOCKET_.html</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ICS-18/search/18_PIN_IC_SOCKET_.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/ICS-18/search/18_PIN_IC_SOCKET_.html</a><br/>
Hmmm... Funny. I always though fubys were filled with pure evil.
Wow, me too. They're pretty scary in some ways.
I forgot to mention that if you make the first cut in the skin with scissors instead of a sharpened crucifix a howling specter soars out goes up your butt.
ok... good.. those rumors from "Fake science Monthly magazine" were right.
where do i get free time and money like that well the parts dont look too exspensive but they could be better spent on somthing like mor electroic parts
Isn't that what they did to Robocop? That poor bastard.
this is pretty cool. but, i need to ask: why? wait: i know this! too mush time on your hands. i know. me too.
actually I spent some time at work building this. I felt guilty but I spend huge amounts of time at work usually anyway. I had to build this for a robot show that I signed up for without any robots.
Always wanted to see what a furbie looked like underneath
lol. that furby would pass as a LEGO RCX robot. it needs more synergy, more sensor-furby interaction. and don't forget the original purpose of furby... look cute. otherwise you'll just be using its sensors. a lego RIS would have done the same thing<br/><br/>and about those touch sensors. i'm having a hard time picturing how they work. so when it bumps, the metal rod loses contact with the spring? is that it? what if the bump is too hard and the metal rod contacts the <em>other</em> side of the spring?<br/>
true, you can do something similar with a lego rcx but you can say that about almost any microcomputer controlled robot in existance (the rcx is a pretty advanced development tool). But building a robot 'from scratch' allows one to make it more flexible than it would be if one used an rcx (an rcx costs a lot of money, does not support interrupts, can only use three sensors and three motors, cannot be used with arbitrary off the shelf sensors). By 'furby-sensor interaction' I'm guesing you mean, have the furby's face move or have the furby talk. The former would be easy if i had a furby with a working main motor(there's only one motor surounded by cams), but mine's not working, and it's impossible to get in there to replace it with another (you'll see when you get a furby). Meanwhile, to get the furby to talk I'll need to either use my own voice synthesizer chip (haven't bought one yet) or interface with the onboard chip (haven't looked into that yet but that would be fun). As it is, this is a relatively simple robot. I put it together in two days because I had to show a robot at a presentation and I didn't have anything with me at the time. This is now a 'when I get back to it' work in progress.
Leevonk, you are a bad ass. I have been trying to learn to use microcontrollers for a while now (havent gotten very far), so i guess i will try the BS1 basic stamp you mentioned for a start. I appreciate your advise.
Sweet.... Have you come up with a "skin" for it yet or are you still modding it? It'd be funny if you added in having it say "uh-oh" whenever it "bumps" into something (of course have an on/off switch hooked up to the speaker/circuit, so you can turn it off when you want to).
I haven't looked at it's speach producing circuitry yet. I did put a FM receiver on it and uploaded prewritten (using a robotic voiced text to speach program) phrases to my Ipod and 'spoke' to people through the furby by playing tracks on the ipod (ipod had an FM transmitter hooked up to it).

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Bio: www.leevonk.com
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