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After recently picking up a Surform at a yard sale, I have found out that it removes material too quickly at times. Removing marks in the wood using metal files takes a long time, and the process would be easier with sandpaper. A convex sanding board isn't something I could find in my local hardware store. Therefore I made my own. I am a hopeless perfectionist, so instead of just making a regular sanding board I took a different approach and put much focus on making it look nice. In this tutorial I'm showing you how to make a futuristic sanding board using simple tools. Enjoy!

I'm entering this instructable into the "Wood Contest 2016". If you like this entry, please give me a vote in the contest. Now let's see how you make it!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

These are the materials and tools needed for this project:

- Jigsaw

- Fine and rough jigsaw blade

- Ruler

- Pen

- Screwdriver

- Various grit sanding belts

- Metal files and wood rasps

- Surform (optional)

- Wood glue

- 40-50mm marble (optional)

- Blunt scissor

- 30mm wood screws

Step 2: The Tutorial

This tutorial video shows the process of making this project from start to finish. I was originally going to make a flat sanding board as well, but ended up just making a half-round one.

<p>cool,idea it's on my list of tools to make for the workshop :-) but I think I will give the marble a miss and make a wooden one :-)</p><p>Thanks for the great idea and yep I defiantly voted for you :-)</p>
<p>Thanks for the vote and comment! Go with a wooden one. Just don't forget the thin rubber sheet in-between the base and the sandpaper. It truly makes a big difference.</p>
<p>thank you Janso for the tip of the thin rubber between the wood and the sanding paper that does make a lot of sense and would defiantly give a better sanding finish :-) thanks :-)</p>
<p>It works very well indeed. The rubber I'm using comes from a 2mm thick mouse pad (can be found on Amazon and similar sites). Thanks for the comment.</p>
<p>Really good. I enjoyed the video, much better than a bunch of pictures. I will be making this in a number of profiles.</p>
While it looks like a fine hand made custom tool I dislike the fact that your Instructable is a basic description of what you made with a link to a YouTube video.<br>It seems to me like the quality of instructibles has been slipping recently with more and more people simply linking to the YouTube video where they documented the thing they made.<br>While sometimes there is something that is just too hard to explain in photos and words and a video is just the thing to flesh out those irksome details, I think that this trend towards linking to YouTube videos is more of a crutch for some people who can't quite figure out how to present their project in a photo steps format. It is also possible that the see my YouTube video links are just shortcuts for lazy people who don't want to take the time to break it down into a second format. <br>I'm not saying that you are lazy or your YouTube video is not a quality instructional method because I don't know you and I haven't watched the video. I simply choose this as a place to vent my frustration over seeing a project that I was intrested in and then finding out that I have to wait until I am home at my work station to view the video rather than browsing the instructions on my mobile phone.<br><br>Thank you for providing me with a place to vent and I hope you will not take it personally.
<p>Don't worry, I totally understand. The reason why I'm not making &quot;real&quot; Instructables very often is that I always forget to take photos during the builds. Also it takes a long time to make a proper Instructable</p>
I am glad that you understand my frustration and didn't get upset by my unreasonable rant. :-)<br>If you were to view my profile you would see that I haven't posted any Instructables, so you have contributed more to this community than I have.
<p>For tricky shapes like scotia or even plasterboard ceiling coving, I use short lengths of plastic pipe (gutter downpipe, plumbing waste pipe etc.).</p><p>Slit them down the length then wrap your abrasive of choice around the pipe and tuck the ends into the slit. You can angle the ends of the pipe to get into awkward corners etc.</p><p>Ordinary plaster's sanding mesh works well as do the modern open mesh (dust-free) abrasives from the likes of Mirka.</p><p>As well as the slit, you could use double-sided tape or strips of Velcro</p><p>The strips of mesh abrasives used by plumbers (Norton Abrasives) to wrap round pipes to clean them up work well and need no holder.</p><p>Having said that, I have many gash blocks made up from bits of scrap timber and simply staple the papers to the block.</p>
<p>I had the idea for a round sanding board which would have a thin slot cut out along one side. A tapered strip would be jammed in there, keeping the sandpaper in place. Hope you liked the project</p>
Yes, I did like it.<br>Sanding done properly, is a real art.<br>I don't go near &quot;sandpaper&quot; or &quot;glasspaper&quot;, but I'm a real convert now to the open mesh abrasives and use most grades from 80 to 240 grit. Other abrasives like non-woven &quot;pan scourers&quot; - 3M Scotchbrite - are useful for de-nibbing paintwork, but particularly useful for preparing copper pipe for soldering.<br>You quite often have to put the effort into making a sanding block to suit the job.
cool idea, but why plywood? looks like it is harder to work with then regular dimensional lumber
<p>Why do they call it dimensional lumber? I have yet to come across &quot;dimensionless&quot; lumber.... </p>
<p>They call it dimension lumber because it is cut and planed down to a standard thickness. Back in the day you weren't able to achieve such perfection.</p>
<p>It's furniture grade pine plywood. It's not as dense as birch plywood, and is about as easy to work with as solid wood. Dimensional lumber is spruce, and that won't last very long.</p>
<p>My advise you should patent this. Or look see if one exists this is great idea.</p>
<p>I'm only 17 and have no experience with jurisprudence. Can't see myself patenting things in a near future, but thanks for the nice comment.</p>
<p>I don't often comment but this is a great idea. I mostly get things to shape these days with CNC but for those times I can't something like this would be great to come in with after the surform.</p>
<p>Then go ahead and make one! You won't regret it.</p>
<p>Oh, it is in the queue. Like so many things, It will get built when I have to have it. </p>
<p>If you're worried about the marble coming off during sanding, use a small spherical door knob instead and screw it on from underneath. </p>
<p>That's a great idea! Thanks.</p>
<p>Nice looking sanding block. But when you gain more experience you will understand why we use a tool and what a tool is used for . The Surform rasp is used for Body Putty or as a rough wood rasp. It is for primary roughing in a shape, other words removing large amounts of material fast to form the rough shape your working on, ( don't push down so hard and it doesn't leave deep gauge marks, use lightly and you remove the deep marks) then you step down to medium abrasive tool to refine the shape in more detail and then finish off with fine abrasive to smooth an finish your shape. </p><p>That sanding belt 80 grit works real good as a sanding block as is, for flat straight work. You just cut a piece of wood ( your choice ply or solid ) as wide as the belt and a slight bit shorter than the inside of the belt about 3/16&quot; to 1/4&quot; x 3/4 &quot;, then make a small flat piece to fill in that 3/16&quot; to 1/4&quot; space to tighten the belt up and your ready to use it. Most pro wood workers use one of these on a daily basis. But again yours looks like a cool personal pro tool..</p>
<p>I am studying to become a carpenter, and I've seen many cases where the Surform would be very useful. It's like a portable belt sander, and when cutting pine, material is removed incredibly fast. The sanding board is not needed for rough carpentry, but at home where I make non-construction projects, it plays a big role as Surform companion.</p><p>I might make a flat sanding board as you described, but I'm not sure it'd make it into a video.</p>
<p>I enjoyed watching this video!</p><p>Personally I don't put so much effort into making sanding boards and I use staples to fix my sandpaper to my chosen wooden shape, but I can see this one does have its advantages; especially if it's one that'll be used regularly.</p><p>It's nice to see someone taking so much care and pride in their tools, and no doubt this one will be looked after. I'm inspired to perhaps make my own permanent one like that too!</p>
<p>That's nice of you. I am a perfectionist in almost everything I do, and while I sometimes get annoyed over the fact all my handmades take so much time to make, I think the end result makes it worth the wait (most of the time). Hope you make one yourself. It's super handy for hand shaping.</p>
<p>This is a great looking little sanding tool. Very nicely done.. I've had several projects where a firm curved surface sanding tool like this would have been very useful, so maybe I'll have to make one! :)</p><p>Perhaps you mentioned it in the video and I missed it, but does the marble serve a function?</p>
<p>It serves as a front grip but really, it's not needed. You can make an ordinary front grip and it'll to the same thing. Just went with the marble because it looks cool, and I like to experiment.</p>
I can't get to the video for some reason there is no longer a link up can you please check that out?
<p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bVD2yuqmzLk" width="500"></iframe></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVD2yuqmzLk">Here</a></p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: A teenager who likes to make stuff with his own hands. You can check out my YouTube channel to find all my projects.
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