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Hello my followers :)

As you can seen, my last project is a BBQ from "Gas Tank". I have spend 30 bucks for everything, include cutting disc etc..

İt works very efficient. I have used only wood for cooking although it cooks almost 4 hours.

Tools that I used:

- Two Angle grinder, for cutting and grinding

- Welding Machine

- Protective gloves

- Face protector shield

- Drill

Other Materials

- Gas Tank

- Square stick for grill

- Pipe and elbow pipe

Step 1: Begining of the Story

Gas tank which is we use it for our gas furnace.

Step 2: Cutting Off the Top and Bottom Parts

Step 4: Cut Off the Lid

Step 5: Welded Hinges

Step 7: Decorative Belt

Step 8:

Handle making from remains parts

Step 9:

Leg making from remain part.

Step 10:

Bottom plate for efficient air ventilation.

Step 11:

Grill is two piece, I have made it from 7mm square metal stick

Step 12:

Chimney process..

I have cutted the hole with angle grinder.

Step 13:

Handle making and last stage before painting.

Türk her yerde türk helal kardeşim on numara olmuş
<p>G&uuml;zel olmuş elinize sağlık. Aynı t&uuml;plerden 2 adet kullanarak, bende de roket soba yapmayı d&uuml;ş&uuml;n&uuml;yorum.</p>
<p>Teşekk&uuml;r ederim. projenizi burada yayınlarsanız incelemekten memnun olurum :)</p>
<p>Be careful. All barrels are dangerous. Many years ago(as a young, perhaps a bit naive welder) I once used a water barrel(with water in it). as a welding table. Bad idea. As I struck the arc, the top blew off. The material I was welding hit my welding helmet and split it down the middle, fortunately with no damage to my face. The good thing....taught me a safety lesson that I carried with me throughout my 40 year welding career. </p><p>I say again, please be carefull. ALL closed containers are dangerous when cutting, welding, etc. Filling only to where you are cutting is not good enough. If there is an air space, it may be filled with an explosive gas(even oxygen in the air). You must have water running through it, as well as the other precautions mentioned here. Will it explode every time? Perhaps not, but is it worth taking that chance with your life? I think not. Cutting, welding, drilling ANY tank is dangerous. Listen to the experts. Use every precaution, or better yet leave it to the professionals. </p>
<p>What is the safety procedure that you would recommend? I would like to try this but I'm concerned about the safety of this project.</p><p> Thanks in advance,</p><p>Craig</p>
<p>You fill the empty cylinder with water and drain it. The entrapped combustible gases will be displaced totally. Then you can follow the standard procedures for cutting and welding.</p>
<p>Thanks for your reply, I feel better about attempting it now : )</p>
<p>:)</p>
<p>Thank you very much. I had already bought the idea, hook, line &amp; sinker and eager to go. But with your caution, hmn, I am thinking,not twice but probaly backing off or I'll just design and give it to a welder. Thanks</p>
<p>coincido , si no inertizan el cilindro y todav&iacute;a quedan residuos de gas se puede generar mezcla explosiva y detonar con el consiguiente da&ntilde;o para la persona que realiza la maniobra. </p>
<p>Congratulations - great project. Some good thinking and problem solving.</p><p>I am curious how you cleaned the gas bottle prior to manufacture - making sure any gas residue is absent. My biggest concern with using gas bottles.</p>
<p>Thank you !</p><p>When I bought it, it hadnt a valve also waiting maybe 1 month in this stuation. because of that I didnt clean the gas.</p>
<p>all the hoopla about cutting a tank. Yeah, right. Fill the tank with water then cut it with what, an electric angle grinder - shocking idea. Fuel oxygen torch - nothing like getting scalded by super heated steam and boiling water. </p><p>Put a pound of dry ice in the tank wait a bit and cut with whatever. The co2 displaces anything in the tank and doesn't support combustion. Not rocket science. </p>
<p>i think you are suppose to drain the tank, then let it dry, unless, of course you want to boil water</p>
<p>Well done !</p><p>It's a good project to play with my new welding machine and my old and unused (empty) gas tank.</p><p>Thanks for sharing !</p><p>BTW: what kind of paint did you used ?</p>
Hi. Having built a fair few smokers, steam pots and BBGs... the type of paint SHOULD be stove paint... high temperature paint. That said I have found that virtually all commercially available ones are pretty rubbish. Hence why true stoves are made from cast iron. Most paints will rust up in a season and need to be refinished.<br>All that said... I did make a steam pot that I wanted to last. I took it to a paint shop and they had it dipped. No idea what the stuff is but apparently it's pretty nasty and not good for home use... it has lasted 3 years though.<br>Whatever you do... just make sure any galvanised finish is removed... it's highly toxic.<br>All the rest of my stuff I just respray/paint once a year using big box store high temperature stove paint.<br>Hope thst helps ☺
<p>Galvanizing is dipping into zinc, and it is toxic at higher temperatures. Muriatic acid, available from ACE Hardware for about $8/quart dissolves it in 30 seconds to a minute. Do this outside as the reaction gives off hydrogen gas and makes an acid mist. Coat the steel with oil right away as it will rust quickly. </p><p>Also, fill with tank with water a couple of times to push out all gas. Let the tank air out too as a little gas can soak into the metal. I have known a couple of guys killed welding on &quot;empty&quot; oil field water tanks. </p>
<p>Soak into the steel - REALLY?? </p>
<p>Very slightly if at all. It depends on any rust inside, any coatings, any accumulated crud. A bit of airing out for a few minutes is insurance. </p>
<p>Is galvanization a problem at cooking temperatures? Good question for the interwebs, I guess.</p>
It's poisonous, and released at higher temperatures. Yes check the Internets for more and better info about galvanization.<br><br>
Other &quot;true stoves&quot; are made from stainless steel as well. A true stainless grill like the ones I saw made back in the day 20+ years ago when I lived in Hawaii were made of stainless steel. Stainless Steel never rusts but it's a upfront investment with long term payback
<p>Actually many grills made from stainless are made from a low grade that does rust. Check it with a magnet. If it has an attraction it's more prone to rust.</p>
<p>Thank you !</p><p>I used high temperature spray paint, you can find it in hardware stores.</p>
<p>Hi, Great build! Please note that there is a procedure for cutting a gas tank. You need to ventilate the tank with water, to ensure no flammable gas still lingers.</p><p>Fill the tank with water to the point you wish to cut. Always use safety precautions!</p>
<p>What do you use to provide and control the air inflow for the Combustion? Perhaps another hole and damper near the bottom of the end opposite the chimney?</p>
What kind of paint would I use?
<p>I am going to try to get mine powder coated with hi-temp type that is used on engine exhaust headers.</p>
<p>Seems like expensive overkill instead of just buying a ready made grill, OR fabricating the exact size and shape you want out of bulk metal instead of a random gas tank size and shape, before going to such expense to coat it.</p><p>FYI, black stove paint has been around for over 100 years and does fine at lower cost.</p>
<p>The key to safely cutting up propane tanks is making sure the gas/air mix left inside isn't sufficient to burn or explode. An acquaintance was severely burned doing this. That said, I cut into them with the tank full of water, plasma torch doesn't care if it has water in it or is empty</p>
<p>Cutting into a gas tank is certainly a high risk activity, especially using cutting disks when filling with water is going to be a problem. Its surprising the number of people who are injured/killed each year cutting up old 44 gallon drums and gas tanks - usually the drums have contained low risk products until they are heated above their flash points. The safest way to degas is to use steam inside the container to remove the volatiles that will have penetrated the steel surface, steam them upside down so that the volatiles can drop to the ground, plus don't forget to earth all the parts that are being used as static electricity can also cause a spark.</p>
<p>Whether upside down or not depends on whether the gas it stored is heavier or lighter than air. Granted if you have a sufficiently good flow rate (pressure) it will flush out the gas either way.</p>
<p>Great use for an old tank! Please listen to the cautions of people who know the dangers of heating ( whether with torch, welder, or cutting disc/grinder) any tank or bottle that has had any liquid or gas in it. Propane, natural gas, gasoline, etc will enter the pores of the tank metal and only be released by heat, explosively. We lost a welder repairing a large aluminium piston from a gas engine/compressor when the gas in the metal exploded!</p>
<p>A tip-upgrade that ground clamp-your welder will work better.</p>
<p>Everyone PLEASE heed what s2h and Aussie58 say, unless you want to risk the thing going off like a bomb and taking your head with it...</p>
Warning<br>Before you start cutting or welding on a fuel tank you need to fill the tank with water to get all the gas out. You can then drain the water out and proceed doing what ever you would like to do.
<p>I must learn how to weld someday.</p>
<p>You should. It's not that hard (for basic welds) and it opens up so many possibilities.</p>
Nicely done

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