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If you’re like me, you have a lot of seasonal items for various holidays taking up space around your house and they only get pulled out for a brief time each year. You may also, like me, use the attic space above your garage to store these items and retrieve them when necessary. Finally, like me, you hate the thought of dragging these odd shaped or heavy items up and down a ladder through a tiny opening in your garage ceiling.

Here is probably where the difference is between us exists; I don’t carry anything up or down ladders any more since I built an electric hoist up to my garage attic. I have been using this system in my house since 2006 and am now building one with my neighbor for his garage, so the pictures you see are a mixture of mine and his.

With all the material in hand this is a weekend project at best, and for a minimal investment you can enjoy the safety from potential ladder falls while hefting loads up and down. Having said that, this project involves overhead lifting by mechanical means and the inherent dangers involved with that operation. Always be sure you use the proper precautions while working around overhead loads and ceiling openings.

Step 1: Material and Tools

Material:

Electric hoist – I am using an 880lb capacity model from Harbor Freight found here. This is a 110v, 8 amp model so you may need to run a separate circuit for power which will not be covered in this Instructable. Fairly easy to do is you have the experience, otherwise please consult an electrician.

  • 1-1/2” galvanized steel pipe cut and threaded into the following pieces (may vary depending on the layout of your roof trusses) (many home improvement or hardware stores will cut and thread for free):
    • 4 pieces at 9-1/2”
    • 1 piece at 36”
  • 2 ea – 1-1/2” tee
  • 4 ea – 1-1/2” floor flange
  • 4 ea – 2"x4"x96" studs
  • 1 ea – 22”x45”x3/4” plywood (varies depending on the size of the hole you want)
  • 1 ea – 24”x48”x1/4” plywood (varies depending on the size of the hole you want)
  • 4 ea – 3/8” eye bolts (the kind with nuts and washers, not lag bolts)
  • 4 ea – 48” lengths of 3/8” chain (hardware stores will cut this also)
  • 8 ea – 3/8” quick links
  • 2 ea – 7/16" quick links
  • 12 ea – 3/8”x2-1/2” bolts w/nuts and washers
  • various interior screws

Tools:

  • Hammer
  • drill with bits
  • screwdriver
  • pipe wrench
  • jig saw
  • chop or miter saw
  • various wrenches

Step 2: Take Some Measurements

The first thing to do, even before getting your material, is to measure your garage roof trusses and floor joists. Typical modern construction in the U.S. should put your trusses at 24” on center, or a clear opening of 22-1/2”, which is what all my measurements are based on; be sure to adjust if your openings are different. The 36” bar should be good for most roofs but may need to be a bit longer for a flatter roof. You also need to locate a suitable spot where the roof peaks to mount the pipe and subsequently where the opening will be under it. This will allow for even pressure to be put on the truss on either side of the roof near the peak where it is the strongest.

Step 3: Building and Installing the "H" Frame

Once you have your opening measurements you can get your pipe cut. The measurements given worked for me but there are variables in the fittings as to how far in the threads will screw before getting tight (pipe threads are slightly tapered) so do a little testing at the store and adjust if necessary. Now you can assemble the “H” frame and test fit in the truss.

Since the floor flange is likely larger than the wood in the truss, rotate it so at least 3 of the mounting holes are covered by the wood. Here is where you want some help because this assembly is heavy and you need to make sure it is perfectly level before you bolt it in place. Have an assistant hold the “H” frame in place while you adjust for level, then drill the first hole in one of the flanges and insert a bolt. Do the same for the other 3 flanges so you have one bolt in each and recheck for level. Now drill the remaining 2 holes in each flange, install and tighten all the 3/8” bolts.

Step 4: Install the Motor and Cut the Opening

At this point you can install the electric hoist on to the “H” frame, trying to keep it as centered as possible.

Once installed and plugged in, play out the cable until the hook just touches the top of the ceiling below and mark this point on the attic side of the ceiling. This is the center of the opening which you will need to cut out. I chose to make the opening 46” long to minimize waste of the ¼” plywood skin on the platform as I wanted 1” of overlap of the skin around the ends. From the center mark, measure out 23” on either side and install a 22-1/2” cross beam to frame the opening, then cut the sheet rock ceiling out right against the truss and cross beam with a handsaw from the top. Watch for falling debris!

Step 5: The Platform

There were several options on the platform I considered but went with a simple series of chains to make the connection to the hoist cable. This basically consists of a series of 2x4s covered with a piece of ¾” plywood. The three cross members at the bottom allow room for the eye bolts to fasten and bring the top of the platform level to the bottom of the floor joist in the attic. The ¼” plywood skin is also attached to them and it provides a better seal to keep bugs out as well as a nice finished edge when looking at the platform from below when it is in the stowed position.

The platform is 45”x22” to allow it to fit in the opening with a little room to spare. Begin by cutting the ¾” plywood to this size then 6 each of the 2x4s to 45” long. Screw one of the 2x4s to each long edge of the plywood then evenly space the remaining four 2x4s in between. Don’t spare the screws in this step.

Next flip the platform over and install 3 each 2x4s, that have been cut to 22”, perpendicular to the first 6. Move the end ones in a couple of inches to allow room for the eye bolt nut. Now drill a hole in each corner through the plywood and first 2x4 for the eye bolt but make sure the eye bolt, when installed, doesn’t hang over the edge of the platform or it will hit the opening when you raise the platform. All that is left is installing the eye bolts.

Finally, center the ¼” plywood over the bottom side of the platform and install with screws. Since this is thin plywood, you might consider using fender washers to make it more durable.

Step 6: Hooking It All Up

With the platform sitting eye bolts up, attached one chain to each eye bolt with a 3/8" quick-link, then take the two chains on each end of the platform and connect a 3/8" quick link to the ends of these, finally connect those quick links with a 7/16" quick link and clip each of those two quick links over the hoist hook. I know that seems like a lot of quick links but it was necessary due to the gap in the chain link and the thickness of the hook.

That is it!! You are ready for a test run. The nice thing about this hoist is the control unit is located at the unit so you have to be in the attic to operate it. This ensures you can guide the platform into the opening when you are stowing it after use. Be aware that the hoist has a lot of power so use quick, small control adjustments when you get close to the ceiling. If it catches the edge of the opening it could jolt the truss around pretty good.

Check out the video to see it in action.

Step 7: Finished

I will tell you that what used to take 2 hours of up and down a ladder to take Christmas decorations and other assorted crap (sorry Honey) up or down for the holidays is now over in less than 10 minutes with one person in the attic and one person in the garage. We even load and unload a 9’ artificial tree in a storage bag by unhooking the platform and using the hoist hook directly on the storage bag handle. This device is a lifesaver!!!

I apologize for the verbose Instructable but without as many pictures of the construction as I would like, I wanted to make sure you had good, clear directions. Please don’t hesitate to ask questions or provide feedback and I certainly wouldn’t mind a vote if you are so inclined….wait, this isn’t a ramp Instructable.

Thank you!!

<p>Brilliant! I have been thinking of a very similar system and thought I would look to see if anyone had done anything similar. Great job!</p>
To answer the question of capacity. The unit itself is not 880 lbs. That is the capacity.
<p>We just bought a new house that has attic space instead of a basement. My son suggested a (won't mention the brand name) lift and I almost had a heart attack when I saw the price!</p><p>Next stop - Instructables.</p><p>Thanks for posting this. My sons and I will probably knock this out in a weekend at about a quarter of the &quot;brand name&quot; unit cost</p>
<p>Congrats on the new house! Love to see some pictures of your hoist when it is complete, and thanks for checking out this Instructable! </p>
Awesome
<p>Thanks. This is a huge back/time saver!</p>
<p>I've tried this with a chain hoist and 2x4s - mine is a pretty sketchy design and I've thought of ways to do what you've accomplished so beautifully. Mine works but I worry about its low weight capacity because of how I've attached the whole thing.to the roof trusses. </p><p>I love your design and have a suggestion. If the truss is narrower than the floor flange, consider fastening sisters to the truss at the mounting spot to allow you to use the full benefit of the four bolt holes in the flange. This can be done with scrap. </p><p>I would use two offcut 7&quot; squares (or longer) of 3/4&quot; plywood at each mounting point, glued and screwed on both sides of the truss. Load a small filler piece of 2x4 between the plywood pieces to complete the sandwich and again clamp, glue and screw through the plywood. This way you will have four sturdy mounting points that can take full advantage of the floor flange design. </p><p>If you have plenty of material, consider stretching the sisters from one floor flange to its corresponding unit. This will create a lightweight, small I-beam across the span that will stiffen the trusses in the area of the greatest stress. </p><p>Thanks for this instructable!</p>
<p>Great idea with the sisters on the truss, that was something I hadn't considered but it makes great sense. I probably won't modify mine but will incorporate them into any future hoists I make for others, and that seems to be happening more now!!</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Great Idea</p>
I like to give the little guy a seat from our ceiling hoist made just for your same reason
<p>I will tell you that I have taken a ride or two on mine!!</p>
<p>Great idea to save ladder work.</p><p>I've used similar winches at times. Latest 4wd style one I used on a lifting arm even had a wireless remote control like a tv set . Means you can operate away from winch if needed. May be handy if you are eg on ground needing to load then raise winch upwards.I would add a small &quot;lip&quot; around edge of lifting platform just to stop sliding sideways issues. Maybe 3 inches high.Just some comments from a tinkerer and gadget maker. Have a nice day..</p>
<p>I like the idea of a lip but after using it for so long, I would not use anything much over 1/2&quot; or 3/4&quot;. The platform stays very level and I just haven't seen much of an issue, but a small lip wouldn't hurt at all. Thanks!</p>
Holy Crud! GENIUS! I used to use a similar, not electric method, but suddenly it's like you solved the puzzle I never thought I was trying to solve. So, this is now one of my favorites and is definitely going into use.
<p>Thanks! Hope your build goes well and I would love to see some pictures when it is done.</p>
I know it says the hoist itself is 880lbs, but how much weight could this rig safely hold?
<p>I will begin by saying that I am not an engineer so there is no mathematical basis for my answer, but I feel comfortable, and routinely put, 150lbs on this with no issues. The maximum I have used it for was around 250lbs and didn't have any trouble with that either. There are so many variables involved that I wouldn't hazard a guess at the maximum load without consulting a structural engineer.</p>
OK thank you
Besides being a good idea it was very well explained
<p>Thanks for the feedback. I usually like to have more pictures to show details because I think most people can figure out a lot from a picture, you know, that whole 1,000 words thing, but I didn't have enough good ones in this case.</p>
Nice work
<p>Thanks. Everyone who sees it wants one. I can't tell you what a time and pain saver this is.</p>

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Bio: I retired from the USAF in 2005 and now work for a local government as a project manager. I live in a fantastic neighborhood that ... More »
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