Introduction: Garage Wood Workbench

First of all, i wanna greet all of you there. I've been a long time lurker here on Instructables, and all your projects helped me alot. Now i just wanted to start sharing some from my projects.

I have a 2 car garage, that i use half as a workshop for my various projects. I had some shelves and a table, but didn't had a proper sturdy workbench. so you could work standing up, or on a high chair, and that could take some pounding. So i decided to build my own from timber. This will basically be the frame as inside will be build shevles, drawers and various stuff. but that later.

I've first built the project in Google Sketchup, as i just wanted to get a whole visual idea of how it would look, and it also helped me with the planning and knowing how much material should i use.

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The BOM(Bill of materials) and Tools used;

●Timber: Two dimensions - 74x44 mm for the legs and the beams under the top part. - total lenth 10.5 meters
                                               -44x44 mm for the beams that tie togheter all the legs - total length 6meters
                 I also got the top plate, that is 28mm thick, 2500x600. Ideally would have been for it to be 800 in depth to have more work.
●Almost 40 steel corner pieces with a total of 8 holes for the screwes.
●5 Big corner pieces with reinforcement, to hold the top plate on the beams.
●100 small screws 4x25 so it would pierce thru the work area.
●400 bigger screws 4x40 to tie togheter all other corner pieces 

Tools:

-1  Circular Hand Saw
-2 power drills for screwing mostly
-Pen and a steel square
- Ruler, Level
-Music(can't work in silence :P)
-A trusty helper (eg. A friend!) 
-Staples (Or something to attach rope on the wood) and small rope

Step 1: Cutting and Starting the Project.

The first part was to cut the legs to Length.
According to my plans, i wanted the workbench to be 900mm tall, so i had to cut the legs to size, as they were delivered in 3m long
poles.
After that, i measured an edge on the side of the table of 20mm and stretched a roped held on the sides by staples. It's easier to use rope than to get a 2.5m long ruler and mark a line.
After putting screws in all the holes in the corner piece, you will realize it's not fixed enough but it will be soon.

The last picture you see all the legs attached. 

Step 2: More Cutting and Screwing Around

After the legs are attached to the table, i wanted to add the cross beams that tie the legs with the top part, and  stabilize the legs more. the beams are from the same wood that the legs are made of (74x44 mm)

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I've cut and measured each piece separately, because the timbers edges were not perfectly straight, minor alterations had to be done. Also i didn't respect the plans i made in sketchup, because i decided to add the small 20mm edge on the workbench, so each had to be cut different.  That edge is, in case your walls are not perfectly straight, the workbench will sit perfectly against the wall.

I've added the bigger, reinforced corner pieces on the middle of the beam for extra support. On the bottom part, the smaller screws are inserted so they don't pierce thru.

After These stepes were done, the legs strated to get fixed more and are not wobbling anymore

Step 3: Cutting and Adding the Bottom Supoorts.

After the top Part was finished, we proceeded to cut the square 44x44 timber. Since some of the were twisted a bit we had to cut each one individually, after leveling the legs and measuring.
Also the beams are set to 200mm from the bottom (up in our case since we're building upside down in case you haven't figured), we went back to the trusty rope to get the same level .

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Each leg had to be pulled (pushed a bit) to get it perfectly leveled, and to tie together all the parts. 

The corner pieces were first laid on the beam, and after that, the beam was fixed in the legs. One was holding the beam, one was fixing it with screws. 

Also when screwing in soft timber (we used Fir tree - same as pine) you have to be careful not to splinter the wood, if the screws are going to close to the edge. For this you either have to drill at a more inward angle(as we did) or drill a small hole with a drillbit first either way works.

Step 4: Final Product

After everything is done, and fixed, we had to take off all the staples in the wood, remove the rope and turn the workbench the right side up.

Eventually, since my floor is not straight, i will probably have to add something to adjust the legs. Also it is very sturdy and can be easily worked on.

Also since this is a softwood, it would better be coated with something, or i was thinking to add engineered flooring since it's cheap and can take some pounding.

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