This Dremel router table has all the basic essentials. It's easy to make. And it will save you time and space. There's only one catch...

Step 1: Underneath

... It's actually for a Proxxon/Micromot rotary tool. The lift design has enough space to put a mount for some hose clamps, if you want to use a Dremel. Actually, you can change pretty much all the dimensions to w/e. I just used the most convenient pieces of scrap I had at hand. I cheated and bought the table top and fence at Harbor Freight. It was sold as a drill press table for ~$30.00. It came with the fence and one stop block. For the life of me, I dunno why a drill press table has a lift-out cover plate in it, but of course that's good for a router table. Well, sorta. With the quick release lift, it's easier to just remove the tool for bit changes, so I would actually prefer to not have a cover plate (to fall out). So all said and done, all I built was a mount. Here, you can see how I did that. I took the idea for the lift from Matthias's tilting router lift: http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/. If you have never heard of Mathias or woodgears.ca, go ahead and click on that link... and forget this Instructable, along with the next 5 hours of your life! :)
<p>Think a little harder about why a drill press table would have a removable/replaceable insert. Could it be because when you are drilling you need a backing to your material to avoid &quot;blowout&quot;?</p>
<p>Well, yeah. I guess you are saying you would make sacrificial inserts for it? This laminated insert looks too nice to mess up, intentionally. Overall it just appears from the insert and the sheer size of the table that it was designed as a router table from the start.</p><p>When I use my drill press for bits that are larger than the hole, I find a sheet of Styrofoam is great for a backing, because it doesn't take much damage from, say, a large forstner bit. Barely leaves a mark and the sheet lasts a long time. </p>
doesn't your dremel drop down? cuz its clamped only from its front side ... which is prolly too weak to hold to ... <br>i did not see any support underneath the dremel tool... except for the one in front which i think is not enough <br>what do you say? <br>
I just built the lift, recently. (I also just added hinges and trunnions for tilt, too). But the tool holder part has been in use for a couple of years, now, with the same table pictured. It was non-adjustable, is all. The tool can be slightly wiggled off axis if pressed. But since the tool is held so close to the bit, this is fine. The Proxxon tool holders exihibit the same thing. Most of the wiggle is coming from flex in the tool housing, not the mount. Perhaps with some additional bracing in the bottom, I could take slightly deeper cuts with it.... who knows? <br> <br>But no, there's no downward slipping. The clamp is rock solid.
Thanks! All feedback is appreciated, but positive feedback is always better!
Very nice!
And all the chips go... IN THE CAN! <br> <br>You sir, are A GENIUS!
Thanks! <br> <br>As for the chips, only some of them go in the can. I still need to keep the vacuum handy. Actually, there are two operations where all the chips DO go in the can. When using a v-score bit and when doing a roundover on an edge. In these two operations, the chips have nowhere else to go but down! <br> <br>And no, I'm not a genius. I give full credit to Matthias at Woodgears.ca. As well as all the previous makers whose work inspired him. I did nothing but adapt his design to a smaller rotary tool, and I happen to be lazy and had a large garbage can by my bench. :)

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