I haven't added a shade at this point, but that will hopefully be rectified soon. I think I'll try and find one that is yellow and black or yellow and magenta as these are the official color schemes for radiation postings in the U.S. I've also considered making a stained glass shade in these colors, but that will have to wait for warmer weather. Whichever option I go with will play on the radiation theme.
The green twist is that this project uses almost all reused materials. I only bought a new socket, nuts to hold on the feet, and a new rotary switch.
Step 1: Materials
- 1 survey meter ( I used a CDV-715)
- A cord with a plug
- White wire
- Black Wire
- A rotary switch (On/off not reostat)
- Wire nuts
- Electrical tape
- Feet (4)
- Nuts (4)
- Lock nuts (4)
- Tubing with lock washers and nuts
- Lamp socket
- Hot glue
Optional materials for LED illumination of the dial:
- Batteries (3 volts in total)
- Scrap metal (I used a penny)
- Plastic container (I used a pill bottle)
- 2 rubber bands (Not pictured)
- A rotary switch (On/off not reostat)
Step 2: Tools
- Drill press
- Hand Drill
- Drill bits
- Drill bit sizer
- Dremel (with grinding bit)
- Wire cutters/strippers
- Metal punch
- Ballpean hammer
- Deburring tool
- Bench Vise
- Hot glue gun
Step 3: Disassembly
Once your meter is open begin taking out the screws that hold the components in place. Save parts such as the screws and battery holder for future projects. Pitch the rest in the garbage or recycling bin as appropriate. Leave the display in place so it still looks like a meter.
Now lets talk knobs. You may have pulled out all the screws inside the meter and the components are still in place. More than likely they are being held on by the control knobs. Knobs on scientific equipment are typically held on by one or two set screws. In newer equipment these are hex head screws. (My meter is so old that it used flat head set screws.) Use either a screw driver or allen wrench to remove the set screws so you can take off the knobs. WIth the knobs removed the guts should fall free from the face plate.
Once the knobs are off be sure not to lose them or the set screws as we will need them for the project. I threaded the screws back into the knobs and put them aside for safe keeping.
With the knobs safely stowed away, I next removed the original rotary switch so I can replace it with a new switch. I did this because this meter ran on a 1.5 volt battery. Trying to use a switch made for 1.5 volts to control a 110 volt lamp struck me as a bad idea, so the old switch has to go.
In order to drill out a hole for the new switch I needed to take the handle off the meter. It was secured in place by a single screw with a lock washer. Like the knobs you may want to thread the screw back into the handle to keep track of it. Once the handle is removed we are ready to drill.
Step 4: Drilling the Face Plate
First remove the screw-on casing and nut that is intended to hold the switch in place. Then use a drill bit sizer to determine the diameter of the switch.
When you have this information load the appropriately sized bit into your drill press (or hand drill). Then clamp down the face plate and drill out the hole the original switch passed through.
If you're adding the LED illumination of the dial repeat this process for the zero dial in the lower left hand corner.
Step 5: Drilling the Case
The first hole in the case will be for the power cord. You can measure and mark the exact position you want or just eyeball it. I just eyeballed it and made a mark. Since I wasn't widening an existing hole, I used a metal punch to make a small dent in the case. This will keep the bit from walking.
Next I determined the diameter of the hole I would need by feeding the cord through various holes in my drill bit sizer. I chose a diameter that was a little bigger than the cord so it wouldn't get damaged when passing into the case.
With that done I put the appropriately sized bit in the drill press, clamped down the case and drilled the hole.
Next I marked out the location of the feet on one end of the case with the eyeball method described above. With that done I clamped it into my bench vise (using my work protectors to keep the finish from getting marred) so I could drill it with my hand drill. With the case held securely in place I used the metal punch to dent each foot mark. I sized the threaded posts on the feet and loaded the correct bit into my hand drill. And then I drilled out the holes for the feet.
When the foot holes were done I flipped the case around and made the hole for the lamp tube via the same process.
Step 6: Hole Clean-up
Additionally the hole for the lamp tube was still a little small, so I used the Dremel and grinding bit to enlarge the hole.
Step 7: Assembly
I began by attaching the feet. I threaded a regular nut onto the post of the foot. Next I inserted the post into one of the holes I drilled for the the feet and secured it in place with a lock nut. Make sure you have enough clearance beneath the meter so the latch doesn't scratch the table the meter will sit on. You may have to make some adjustments so the lamp sits levelly.
With the feet in place I moved on to the lamp neck. I threaded one nut and a lock washer onto the the lamp neck. Then I inserted the end into the case and placed another lock washer and a nut onto the lamp neck. I then tightened both sides with a wrench.
With the lower portion of the case completed I turned my attention to the face plate. I removed the retaining nut from the switch. I placed the switch so it protruded from the front of the face plate and secured it with the nut. I tightened it up with a pair of pliers. I then attached the knob to the switch using the set screws we saved when disassembling the meter.
Step 8: Wiring
The first step is to cut two pieces of wire about 12 inches long that will run from the socket down into the lamp (I used white and black) and to strip the ends. WIth that done attach these pieces of wire to the socket. The neutral wire (white in my case) is secured under the silver colored screw on the socket. The hot wire (black in my case) is secured under the brass screw.
Once the wires are attached to the socket screw the socket base onto the top of the lamp neck and pass the wires through the lamp neck and into the meter casing. With that completed snap the socket cover into place.
Now strip the ends of your power cord and feed it through the hole in the back of the meter. Twist the white neutral wire and the neutral wire in the power cord together with a wire nut. (In your typical two wire cord you can tell the wires apart by their texture. The neutral wire will have insulation with a rough texture and the hot wire will be smooth.) With the neutral wire completed twist together the hot wire from the power cord and one of the switch wires with a wire nut. Then twist together the other switch wire and the socket hot wire. You should now have a complete circuit. Plug in the lamp, turn the switch and see what happens. (If you want a bit of cheesy drama say "LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!" in your most deity like voice).
The last part of the wiring is to make sure it stays put. I accomplished this with copious amounts of hot glue. I put a few inches of slack in the power cord and then clamped it to the case. With that done I squeezed hot glue around the cord where it entered the back of the meter. When that glue cooled I glued the slack to the bottom of the case as well.
With that done I reconnected the handle to the face plate and hot glued the disconnected zero knob to the lower left corner. In the future I may hook a second switch to this knob and use it to have a blue LED light up the instrument dial. A buddy of mine suggested building a rectifier circuit that would have the needle on the instrument display move when the light was turned on. I need to refine my electronics knowledge and skill a little bit before trying this though.
Step 9: LED Dial Illumination
First I removed the zero knob in the lower left hand corner of the face plate. Then I drilled out the original hole to accept the new switch (see step 4). WIth that done I put the new switch in place and while the diameter of the hole was correct the depth wasn't. It turns out the face plate is thicker around the zero knob hole so it won't be possible to secure the new switch with a nut. To solve this I hot glued the switch to the back side of the face plate. Once the glue cooled I secured the knob to the new switch with set screws and made sure it would turn properly.
With the switch in place I turned my attention to the LED. My meter had a foam block just below the the dial that was orginally used as a spacer for the ion chamber. I cut a slot into this foam to secure the board that holds the LED. With the LED in this slot I glued it in place with more hot glue.
I wired together the negative leg of the LED and one of the switch wires. I then crimped electrical connecters to the other switch wire and the wire linked to the positive leg of the LED.
Now to power the LED. I used two AAA batteries taped side by side. I rigged up a battery holder by hot gluing a penny to the bottom of a plastic pill bottle that held the batteries snuggly. I cut the excess off the pill the bottle with my Dremel so the tops of the batteries would be exposed. (REMOVE THE BATTERIES PRIOR TO TRIMMING THE PILL BOTTLE). WIth batteries re-installed I matched up the polarity of the wires to the batteries and used the rubber bands to hold the wires in place. (It took a little experimentation with wrapping the rubber bands to keep them from slipping off the batteries, but it appears to be working great now.) I wrapped the exposed portions of the wire with electrical tape.
Now my meter dial will have a spooky blue glow whenever the mood strikes me.