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After reading this short set of instructions you will be able to:
>Understand the basics of sand casting
>Make your own molds 
>Make a sand casted object in a safe manner
 

Step 1: Basics of Sand Casting

Sand casting is a process that uses a mold made from either metal, wood, or wax to create a negative impression in a special sand that will be the mold for the molten metal.  This mold is then filled with a molten metal that is left to cool and solidify. Once the metal has solidified the mold can be hit with a hammer, pipe, or any hard object to crack the sand mold and expose the metal object. 
This reminded me of doing this in 9th grade shop many, many years ago, and I've wanted to try it again.  Thanks for the inspiration.  But as I remember, the very fine sand--almost like powdered "dirt" in consistency--was a barely moistened mix of sand and water with something added to the water to make it sticky.  Then we'd add sand and pound it in place so when the upper mold was taken off the lower, the sand would not fall out [at least after a few tries].  Are you using dry sand or adding something to it to allow it to stick together in the mold?  Source for your sand?  Did you dust the mold and the separation area with talc or chalk to facilitate separating the mold halves?  How did you remove the original model and leave the central sand core intact?  
<p>Hello, I'm a master patternmaker and I can answer your questions. The &quot;dirt&quot; you're referring to is indeed, a &quot;sand&quot;, but not like normal sand. There are many different types, fineness of granules, etc., how the sand is &quot;bound&quot; together and their selection can be made based on the type of metal that will be poured, the type of surface finish you want on the outside and inside of the casting as examples. Most sand mixtures contain a &quot;binding&quot; agent, along with a very minimal amount of water. (Excess water will turn to steam, creating voids in the casting). Talcum powder is commonly used as a &quot;parting agent&quot; on the patterns to release them from the sand mold. </p><p>To create a &quot;cavity&quot; within a casting (such as the coolant pathways in an engine block), requires that a separate, female tool (Called a &quot;Core-box&quot;) is made to create the shape of the cavity and register it to the master pattern. This &quot;male&quot; sand shape is called a &quot;Core&quot;. To put it simply, the Master Pattern which generally creates the &quot;outside shape&quot;, has registrations built onto the pattern (Called Core-prints), that the Core will align with. The drag and cope sides of the sand mold are rammed up against the master pattern. The sand mold halves are separated, the master pattern is removed, the sand &quot;core&quot; made from the core-box is placed into the lower half of the sand mold, aligning it with the &quot;core-print&quot; areas molded within the lower half of the mold. The cope side, or &quot;upper half&quot; of the sand mold is closed over the lower, encapsulating the core inside. After the metal is poured, the sand core is broken loose and out from the casting, creating the desired cavity shape. (See the attached pdf for more details.)</p>
a simple way is a screen from a screen door to check 4 unwanted items.
or old soda cans. if yr over 21 yr empty beer cans. or u can get them from a local park. i love trash can diving tho(wear gloves, the good kind with long sleeves if u can afford them) and anti germ wash to wash yr hands an arms!!!!
got it. also yr local vacum repiar shop an bike shop are great place 4 scrap metal . also be kind to the employees, even if yr having a bad day. remember this they will remember wat u did. and that source of free metal will dry up fast.
This studio looks like where I studied sculpture in Little Rock.
Just a quick terminology correction: A <em>mold</em> is a negative image, like your sand. The object you are using as a stand-in for the final object is a <em>pattern</em>.<br> <br> In lost-wax casting, you can use a resin mold to create multiple wax patterns. When you invest the pattern and burn out the wax, the casting flask itself is also a mold.
I remember hearing that there is something that can be applied to the negative to allow the sand to more easily come loose.... wax or cooking oil? not sure if I missed it, but what additive is used to facilitate the mold hardening?
How does the sand solidify by just sitting for 40 minutes?
I'm curious about the sand. It's not regular silica sand, what do you use?
This video is private?
Sorry about the video mishap, it was showing in the editor but got lost when I published. Seems to be working now thanks for the notification.
make sure the coat is leather or a heat resistant materiel. not some cheap cloth type!
here where very heavy gloves will come in handy. I.E. high quality stick welding gloves will work in a pinch also use a remote temp senor unit as well. or if u wanna use the heat cumin off to charge those batteries use a thermal electric generator of some kind
i.e. best to wait a day or 2 if yr not in a hurry. if yr in a hurry then wait 4 hr.s or so
un i think u 4 got the video

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