Step 4: Bend

The tabs will need to be bent slightly so they will lay together properly. This is where the staple remover comes it. Turns out it gives it just the right amount of bend. Put the tab in cut side first and close the tool down so that one side holds the cuts and the "bridge" is over the metal edge on the other side. Press with your finger and, bam! you're done.
Just a few questions: <br>Why do they need the metal ring on the pop tab still (don't you just bend it away anyhow?) <br>Also, why do you bend it with the staple remover, are there any other ways, or items to use?
These are good questions. When the metal ring is still on the tab it allows you to have a folded metal edge instead of the the sharp irregular edge of a broken ring.<br><br>I used the staple remover primarily because it was handy at my desk and gave the tabs a consistent amount of bend. It can easily be done with any other tool, though. It can easily be done with pliers, but the consistency will be a bit more difficult. I think one person in the comments (buried way down there somewhere) said he was going to make a wooden jig in a clamp to do several at once.<br><br>I hope that helps, thanks for taking the time to send me questions.
You got a feature on iFunny today
I made a shirt freshman year of high school for a Halloween costume, and here's how. I measured how big around my chest was, then made a strip the length of my circumference and 4 tabs tall. I pinned it down and continued adding rows until it was the length of my torso, then added tabs in a way that would go around my neck and connect together over my shoulders. I did the same for my arms (measuring circumference, etc.), but removed a tab every once in a while going down so that it would be more form fitting (since my shoulders/biceps are larger than my wrists). I then connected* the shoulder part of the arm pieces to the holes left by the shoulder part of the shirt. Finally I wore a gray shirt underneath to compliment the metal and protect my skin. Eventually I hand-sewed the edges of the cotton shirt to the tabs to keep everything from moving around too much. Everyone loved my costume, and years later I still have it, although I eventually took the sleeves off because I had little flexibility with them attached. <br>*connected using more tabs, not wire or any other means
this is one of my favorite instructables, and am thinking about collecting to make a nice bag and decoration for a jacket. looking forward to the fun!
&nbsp;I really need to make this wider; it keeps folding in on itself as I work. Takes five minutes to straighten out like in the photo below.<br /> <br />
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<p>I have many pieces of chainmail using this method and they all have turned out great! I used spray paint to colour them gold and it worked out perfectly. The only problem is that every now and then the can become unlinked but it is an easy fix.</p>
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<p>These look so awesome. I wonder if it's possible to solder the cuts together in order to create a more permanent connection...</p>
<p>Thanks for the fab Instructable, I used your technique to make a lampshade ;O)</p>
<p>This is so cool. I feel a little silly for asking, but how do you change the circumference to allow for a sleeve to get tighter towards the wrist? I have made a tube now that fits around my upper arm, but it is too baggy around the wrist...</p>
<p>I over came the weakness and fragility of this design, by weaving with a fine wire. As you can see, it gives a beautiful fish scale texture, and many different designs are possible. I've been wearing at festivals all summer, and the response has been overwhelming!</p><p>Here's a couple of pictures to show you the fruits of my labour!</p>
<p>could you post some reference pictures for the upper chest area: around the neck, shoulders and arms. I have the lower chest done, just a little stuck on the neck area</p>
<p>the chain mail will work for paint balling because the paint ball will hit it and just splash your shirt. :D</p>
<p>I made a chainmail with different colors for my littlebrother in christmas present (-:</p><p>I also added a cape on the back.</p>
<p>Could I make it look like a tunic where the sides are sealed, or would I have to throw it on like a poncho?</p>
<p>one question: do you glue again the tabs when you using them to form anything?</p>
<p>the staple romover bender wasnt working for me the one i have the thumb rests bend down messing it all up so i use the edge of my desk just a tip for anyone with the same problum as me </p>
<p>Do you experience the tabs constantly coming undone while trying to put these together? So far I've put together about 50 tabs and it is a nightmare when it all crinkles together into a roll of tabs that start to come undone when I'm trying to flatten it back out. Are there any tips or tricks that might be able to make the cut tips not allow other parts to slip back out?</p>
awesome yo
Thanks for this amazing post! :)
I now have something to do in my spare time (thanks to Isa for posting a link to this on her Tumblr :D)
Wow, what a great way to make aluminum chainmail, thanks for sharing.
After three years (most of which was gathering supplies), I finally have a wearable hauberk. http://stitchesandstringtheory.tumblr.com/post/38606574227/chainmail-hauberk
I'm going to use this for airsoft battles
it probably wont work well seeing that there are a lot of holes in it
Ok, but I think I'll use two sheets for them to have one to cover the other
Huge amount of work for something that is structurally weak and a tactical nightmare. If you need armor, wear a jacket. If you need more, wear two jackets. If you need still more, then play Nerf instead. This mail is awesome, but it really won't help on the field. Maybe as a little decorative patch on the back of a glove or something, but that is about it.
Well, I just want something for non-professional, friendly battles. I am currently using cardboard.
cardboard works ok for this, a duct tape vest is better. if you dont want to put a lot of time into a duct tape garment, i suppose you could just put one or two layers of tape on the cardboard. or just wear a sweatshirt with a hood. <br>
My chainmaille tends to come apart because of the slit that is needed to attach them together. Is there any certain way I can seal it or keep the maille from coming undone? Thanks :D
should be able to solder it you might need extra flux <br>
wow wonderful design but is it only for show or can you actually use it for something like maybe putting two layers or more of it so it makes arrow proof armor or somehing
At this stage, I find that just pinching the tabs a few times with the pliers helps to get a good, center cut. I also found that bending the tabs before cutting them doesn't make the cut side turn out so bent out of shape.<br><br>I actually tried this a few years ago, and I am now making another attempt at it. I want to make a shirt for a Link Cosplay I had in mind.
Right now i'm making a chainmail head mask
I know this is a really old instructable, but someone might read it. Depending on the way you prefer to join the links you only need to cut half the rings. I just crimp all of mine and cut only what I need before I start a 'mailling' session. I am sure it would increase strength too.
Just break the rivet collars off by bending them back and forth. Works for me!
heh, to me it looks like a combination of chainmail and scalemail.
are there any other methods that will bend them just as consistantly without using a staple remover?
I've been using a normal pair of Needle nose pliers.
It's worth a shot.. When I've been making standard ring maille, I use a pair of 'Duck-Bill' long-reach pliers from Sears.. (Item# 00945087000 | Model# 45087 ).. they have a wider width jaw than needle-nose pliers, about 5/16&quot; width.. they might be about the right width to grab each tab, and use the other (or even a pair of lineman's pliers) to make the bend. I will say, from someone who's made chain maille for close to 28 years, I am impressed by this! Yes, it would take a L-O-N-G time to make an entire suit of these.. the present suit I wear to ren faires, is 14-guage FyShock aluminum electric fence wire. (well past 4000 rings!) it takes lots of patience, and persistence to complete.
Ok, but it takes FOREVER to put in precisely
I use an adjustable wrench, make it just wide enough to slip a tab inand out and duct tape the worm gear at that position.&nbsp; I got prettygood at it.&nbsp; If you want to see the finished shirt you can checkout my <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Bud-Light-Knight/">instructable</a><br />
same here
I've made a small jg out of a 2x4(2 pieces) and a door hinge.<br />I line 3 up side-by-side in the groove &nbsp; I cut.<br />then pull down on the &quot;handle&quot; and insta-bent tabs.
right angle edge of needle nose pliers<br />
Yes. What I do is I hold one end on a table with the palm of my hand, and have the other half off of the table. then, I just push down with my thumb. But, if you do this, cut after bending.
wow, I was recently thinking of making something like this, but I guess you beat me to it :)

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