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Step 9Something to make life easier
A friend cut a square of 3/16 inch steel plate for me. I had access to his oxy-acetylene cutting torch at the time and made an opening for the blade. I drilled some holes in the steel plate to correspond with existing holes in the saw base. The holes were countersunk on the bottom of the plate for bevel head screws.
A plate like this allows changing from a rip cut to a crosscut without moving one of the angle iron rails to its other location.
By clamping pieces of wood to function as straightedges or fences to the work surface of the guide table and placing them at any desired angle, it is possible to cut accurate mitered corners with this saw guide. Such straightedges would need to be almost 3 feet long. Their front ends could be placed against the fence to make them more firm.
Whether using the steel plate to mount the saw or just using the saw's own base on the angle iron rails, the saw moves more smoothly if I put just a little used motor oil on the rails.
Take a look at the two other photos to see the saw mounted on the plate in both the rip and crosscut positions.
A plate like this allows changing from a rip cut to a crosscut without moving one of the angle iron rails to its other location.
By clamping pieces of wood to function as straightedges or fences to the work surface of the guide table and placing them at any desired angle, it is possible to cut accurate mitered corners with this saw guide. Such straightedges would need to be almost 3 feet long. Their front ends could be placed against the fence to make them more firm.
Whether using the steel plate to mount the saw or just using the saw's own base on the angle iron rails, the saw moves more smoothly if I put just a little used motor oil on the rails.
Take a look at the two other photos to see the saw mounted on the plate in both the rip and crosscut positions.
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