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Step 4Drivetrain
This could practically be its own instructable. Basically check for loose chains, noise, roughness, and bent stuff. Then clean and lube the chain and centrifugal clutch as below. If you want to get deeper into it, read on. Otherwise take it to someone who knows what they're doing. The health of you and/or your children is more important than a couple bucks saved by doing an adjustment yourself. Some of this stuff should really be done every time you ride.
On almost every kart, with a couple exceptions (like the Manco Fox Helix), there will be at least one chain. Before you do anything else with it, you may as well check the tension and look it over, because if it's worn out, there is no point in cleaning it.
The first thing you want to look for is bent or misaligned sprockets and wear. One of the sprockets is going to be part of the centrifugal clutch if your kart is so equipped. There shouldn't be any back and forth movement when you spin the axle. If there is then the chain, sprockets, and probably the axle need replacement. Look at the sprocket teeth very carefully. Each tooth should be the same on both sides - symmetrical. If it appears that the teeth are "leaning" then your sprockets are worn out. Have both chain and sprockets replaced. Replacing only one or the other is just going to wear out the new part very quickly.
To check the sprocket alignment, get out your straight edge and put it between the 2 sprockets along their sides so that it's not resting on the chain. Now look at where the straight edge is touching the larger sprocket. The straight edge and big sprocket should touch all along the length of the sprocket, except at the edge of the sprocket where the teeth are. Make sure it's touching the side of the little sprocket where it's thin and not just the teeth when you're checking this, not the central hub part or retaining collar where it's fatter. If you can see any gap between the straight edge and the big sprocket then you have alignment problems. Have the sprockets aligned. You could also align it yourself by guiding off the big sprocket with the straightedge and moving the little sprocket, checking with the straight edge until they're aligned.
When you pull up and down on the chain, it shouldn't move any more than 1/2", maybe 3/4" on longer runs. If you're a metric nut then let's say around 1cm. If it doesn't move at all and you can strum it like a guitar string, then it's too tight and has to be loosened up. If there is a tensioner sprocket, have it tightened or loosened . If not and it's too lose, replace the chain and maybe the sprockes. If too tight, try adding links or half links and check the tension again. Spin the axle. The chain should make no noise or very little noise.
The worst enemy of chains is sand followed closely by metal shavings. You should be able to run your fingers up and down the chain and get only clear lube (or colored lube if your lube is colored) on them. If the chain is dirty or sandy, take a couple cans of WD-40 and a toothbrush and scrub that thing real good. Then apply some fresh lube. Some good chain lubes recommended by karters are Silkolene, MFR, and PJ1. These are good for anything with a chain.
You should really take off the chain at this point and check for "kinkiness". All of the links should move back and forth effortlessly. The rollers should spin freely and easily.
If your chain and sprockets are rusty, then they need to be lubed more often. Sometimes you can bring back a seized up chain by throwing it in an old coffee can with some 10W30 oil and heating it. ATF might work well because it is high in detergents. I suppose you could also try soaking it in PB Parts Buster, Liquid Wrench, or antifreeze (which has corrosion inhibitors).
CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCHES
You should put a little 3 in 1 oil on the bronze bushing (see the picture). Don't go overboard with it or put oil anywhere else because if it gets on the shoes inside the clutch it could fail. You might have a grease zerk on the end of the crank. If you do, skip the oil and give it like a half pump with a grease gun.
COMET TORQUE CONVERTERS
What is a torque converter or C.V.T (continuously variable transmission)? It's just a couple special pullies and a belt. If your kart has a Comet torque converter there is some additional light maintenance to do on these.
Check for rust on the parts the touch the belt. Rust here could cause premature belt failure and require one or both pulleys to be replaced. If the rust is light it could just wear off on its own as the kart is used or you could sand it off.
The pulley on the engine crankshaft (driver pulley) has weights inside that periodically need to be cleaned and lubed. You can skip this, but I recommend doing it or having someone else do it for you. You have to take the cover off to get at these. Use an old t-shirt wound around the pulley or a strap wrench to get a grip and remove the bolt in the center. Take the cover off (it might fall off all by itself) and clean everything you see with brake cleaner really well. Also clean the underside of the cover. When it's clean and dry, it's time to lube. Lube only the weights and surrounding area. Comet recommends lubing with their special lube, but you could use graphite in a pinch. DON'T USE GREASE OR OIL! These attract dirt and belt dust. Go ahead and take the whole thing off the crank if you're so inclined and clean everything with brake cleaner. Don't lube anything else, especially anything touching the belt. You can also take apart and clean the driven pulley, but don't lube this either.
Check belt for fraying and excessive wear. Replace accordingly.
On almost every kart, with a couple exceptions (like the Manco Fox Helix), there will be at least one chain. Before you do anything else with it, you may as well check the tension and look it over, because if it's worn out, there is no point in cleaning it.
The first thing you want to look for is bent or misaligned sprockets and wear. One of the sprockets is going to be part of the centrifugal clutch if your kart is so equipped. There shouldn't be any back and forth movement when you spin the axle. If there is then the chain, sprockets, and probably the axle need replacement. Look at the sprocket teeth very carefully. Each tooth should be the same on both sides - symmetrical. If it appears that the teeth are "leaning" then your sprockets are worn out. Have both chain and sprockets replaced. Replacing only one or the other is just going to wear out the new part very quickly.
To check the sprocket alignment, get out your straight edge and put it between the 2 sprockets along their sides so that it's not resting on the chain. Now look at where the straight edge is touching the larger sprocket. The straight edge and big sprocket should touch all along the length of the sprocket, except at the edge of the sprocket where the teeth are. Make sure it's touching the side of the little sprocket where it's thin and not just the teeth when you're checking this, not the central hub part or retaining collar where it's fatter. If you can see any gap between the straight edge and the big sprocket then you have alignment problems. Have the sprockets aligned. You could also align it yourself by guiding off the big sprocket with the straightedge and moving the little sprocket, checking with the straight edge until they're aligned.
When you pull up and down on the chain, it shouldn't move any more than 1/2", maybe 3/4" on longer runs. If you're a metric nut then let's say around 1cm. If it doesn't move at all and you can strum it like a guitar string, then it's too tight and has to be loosened up. If there is a tensioner sprocket, have it tightened or loosened . If not and it's too lose, replace the chain and maybe the sprockes. If too tight, try adding links or half links and check the tension again. Spin the axle. The chain should make no noise or very little noise.
The worst enemy of chains is sand followed closely by metal shavings. You should be able to run your fingers up and down the chain and get only clear lube (or colored lube if your lube is colored) on them. If the chain is dirty or sandy, take a couple cans of WD-40 and a toothbrush and scrub that thing real good. Then apply some fresh lube. Some good chain lubes recommended by karters are Silkolene, MFR, and PJ1. These are good for anything with a chain.
You should really take off the chain at this point and check for "kinkiness". All of the links should move back and forth effortlessly. The rollers should spin freely and easily.
If your chain and sprockets are rusty, then they need to be lubed more often. Sometimes you can bring back a seized up chain by throwing it in an old coffee can with some 10W30 oil and heating it. ATF might work well because it is high in detergents. I suppose you could also try soaking it in PB Parts Buster, Liquid Wrench, or antifreeze (which has corrosion inhibitors).
CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCHES
You should put a little 3 in 1 oil on the bronze bushing (see the picture). Don't go overboard with it or put oil anywhere else because if it gets on the shoes inside the clutch it could fail. You might have a grease zerk on the end of the crank. If you do, skip the oil and give it like a half pump with a grease gun.
COMET TORQUE CONVERTERS
What is a torque converter or C.V.T (continuously variable transmission)? It's just a couple special pullies and a belt. If your kart has a Comet torque converter there is some additional light maintenance to do on these.
Check for rust on the parts the touch the belt. Rust here could cause premature belt failure and require one or both pulleys to be replaced. If the rust is light it could just wear off on its own as the kart is used or you could sand it off.
The pulley on the engine crankshaft (driver pulley) has weights inside that periodically need to be cleaned and lubed. You can skip this, but I recommend doing it or having someone else do it for you. You have to take the cover off to get at these. Use an old t-shirt wound around the pulley or a strap wrench to get a grip and remove the bolt in the center. Take the cover off (it might fall off all by itself) and clean everything you see with brake cleaner really well. Also clean the underside of the cover. When it's clean and dry, it's time to lube. Lube only the weights and surrounding area. Comet recommends lubing with their special lube, but you could use graphite in a pinch. DON'T USE GREASE OR OIL! These attract dirt and belt dust. Go ahead and take the whole thing off the crank if you're so inclined and clean everything with brake cleaner. Don't lube anything else, especially anything touching the belt. You can also take apart and clean the driven pulley, but don't lube this either.
Check belt for fraying and excessive wear. Replace accordingly.
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