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Step 5Engine and You're Done
Finally on to the engine. I mention this last because the engine is what gets you moving and you don't want to be moving if something as important as the brakes or tires is out of whack.
The gas tank and carburetor should be empty. (you did drain out the gas last fall, didn't you?)
Check the air filter. There's usually a wing nut or two and a cover to remove. Paper elements should be white or light gray. Dark gray or black means it needs replacement. Paper elements are not serviceable. If it's dirty, throw it out and put in a new one.
Foam elements on the other hand can be washed with soap and dish detergent and squeezed dry. Do not wring out a foam element, just squeeze the water out. Then add a couple drops of oil and squeeze it again to distribute.
If you've been running in mud or heavy brush, you should probably remove the shroud and blow out the flywheel and cooling fins with compressed air. If you don't have an air compressor, sometimes you can get away with one of those little whisk brooms. Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh shrouds usually have 4 bolts. Find all 4 to remove the shroud and reveal your prize!
Check the oil, which is something you should do every time you ride. The oil should be changed every 25 hours of use.
To change the oil, put something underneath the engine to catch the oil and remove the drain plug.
After it's all drained out, tilt it to get that extra little bit out if you can.
Replace the drain plug.
Remove the dipstick and, using the appropriate size funnel, start filling with SAE30 engine oil. NOT 10W30, NOT anthingWanything, SAE30. (some of the Honda engines call for 5W30, read your owner's manual)
Periodically stop and put the dipstick back in to check the level. Either that or pre measure the prescribed amount as specified in the owner's manual (you did read that old thing, didn't you?)
Take out the spark plug and check it for fouling and wear, gap it to .030" with your feeler gauge or replace with a new one.
Now put in the FRESH STANDARD GRADE gas YOU JUST GOT, not the stale old gas from last season, not the gas you siphoned from the old truck rusting in your driveway, not the high octane superultraplus++, no octane boosters, not an old gas EVEN IF you put stabilizer in it. Just put in FRESH, plain old STANDARD GRADE GAS.
A couple pulls and you're off. Otherwise there is something wrong with your engine and you need work done. See some other instructable if you want to plunge yourself into that mess. See you on the trails.
The gas tank and carburetor should be empty. (you did drain out the gas last fall, didn't you?)
Check the air filter. There's usually a wing nut or two and a cover to remove. Paper elements should be white or light gray. Dark gray or black means it needs replacement. Paper elements are not serviceable. If it's dirty, throw it out and put in a new one.
Foam elements on the other hand can be washed with soap and dish detergent and squeezed dry. Do not wring out a foam element, just squeeze the water out. Then add a couple drops of oil and squeeze it again to distribute.
If you've been running in mud or heavy brush, you should probably remove the shroud and blow out the flywheel and cooling fins with compressed air. If you don't have an air compressor, sometimes you can get away with one of those little whisk brooms. Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh shrouds usually have 4 bolts. Find all 4 to remove the shroud and reveal your prize!
Check the oil, which is something you should do every time you ride. The oil should be changed every 25 hours of use.
To change the oil, put something underneath the engine to catch the oil and remove the drain plug.
After it's all drained out, tilt it to get that extra little bit out if you can.
Replace the drain plug.
Remove the dipstick and, using the appropriate size funnel, start filling with SAE30 engine oil. NOT 10W30, NOT anthingWanything, SAE30. (some of the Honda engines call for 5W30, read your owner's manual)
Periodically stop and put the dipstick back in to check the level. Either that or pre measure the prescribed amount as specified in the owner's manual (you did read that old thing, didn't you?)
Take out the spark plug and check it for fouling and wear, gap it to .030" with your feeler gauge or replace with a new one.
Now put in the FRESH STANDARD GRADE gas YOU JUST GOT, not the stale old gas from last season, not the gas you siphoned from the old truck rusting in your driveway, not the high octane superultraplus++, no octane boosters, not an old gas EVEN IF you put stabilizer in it. Just put in FRESH, plain old STANDARD GRADE GAS.
A couple pulls and you're off. Otherwise there is something wrong with your engine and you need work done. See some other instructable if you want to plunge yourself into that mess. See you on the trails.
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Aug 29, 2010. 5:09 PMquadracer
says:
For gaping your plugs, IMO It is more important to have the ground level to the electrode, And to check for wear on the porcelain, rounded edges, cracks or chips are overlooked. Good Ible
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Apr 20, 2009. 5:29 PMcody316
says:
how much hp does the engine have, you have for yours?
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Apr 25, 2009. 8:57 PMThe Lightning Stalker (author)
says:
8
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