There are common problems that cause your steering wheel to shake when you apply the brakes. In order from least expensive to most, they are: dry guide pins, worn brake pads, and worn rotors.
It’s generally recommended if you replace the rotors, you replace the brakes, and grease the guide pins. Or if you’re just replacing the brakes, you also grease the guide pins. Now, if your brakes are still good, you could just grease the guide pins. Most of this can be done with a basic set of tools. Replacing rotors, however, is a little more involved. In either case, this if what it takes to get the job done.
Step 1: Collapse the caliper
Start by engaging the emergency brake, jacking up the vehicle, and placing it safely on jack stands. Open the hood and remove the lid to the master cylinder reservoir. If you don’t do this you may rupture the reservoir when you collapse the calipers. Remove the tire. Place a pry bar in between the rotor and brake pad. With firm constant pressure the caliper pistons will press back into the caliper. If you are not replacing the break pads be careful not to damage them. You could also just use a C-clamp once its off.
Note: Only do one wheel at a time. You could completely expel a piston out of the caliper. Then you’d have to bleed the breaks after putting it back.
Step 2: Remove the Caliper
Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts for the caliper. To avoid damage, hang the caliper up so it’s not dangling by the brake line.
Step 3: Remove the Caliper Bracket
The caliper bracket will have larger bolts then those that came off the caliper. They will also be set in place with thread locker. Thread locker is basically a glue that keeps bolts in place. If you don’t have an impact gun you’ll need a torch to release the bolts.
Now is a good time to spray the rotor, where it contacts the hub, with penetrating oil.