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DISCLAIMER: Like all of my Instructables; this contains adult humor.

This is what happens when your exhaust is horribly rusted (from someone parking it for long periods in wet grass….)

And you bottom out on snow ruts on residential roads (cause the city you live in is stupid and too cheap to plow), denting said rusted pipe..

And then you hit a big chunk of snow that fell off a mini-van in front of you (cause that’s just they way things happen to you).

Step 1: Step 1

Since I grew up in the Ghetto of Edmonton (yep that’s right the upper middle class suburbs of the West End).

 Like multi-millionaire J-Lo, I know all about keeping it real….

Step 2: Step 2

and real is using an old bench top vise (stacked on spare lumber to reach the right height) to crimp a zoodle can around your severed exhaust pipe.

Step 3: Step 3

It’s very important to crimp that can really well, I had some problems with mine coming loose and had to upgrade to a connected 2 zoodle can model.

(Yeah I know major shiny Bling Bling, but don’t be fooled by the rocks that I got.)

Step 4: Step 4

You can tell if your system is hooked up right when 50% of the exhaust gas comes out the back of the car.
I like kickin it Old Skool so I went for the 30% out the back, 85% shootin out of the Zoodle can seams in every direction.

Step 5: Step 5

If your wonderin where the extra 15% of exhaust came from, it’s from the extra noise of the severed exhaust…. which like a Type-R sticker on a Ford Tempo adds mad horsepower.

Remember Pimpin Ain’t Easy.

Peace!

If this works for you, great! Where I live (Europe) this would get you a fine so large you could have replaced the whole exhaust system several times over.<br /> <br /> Somehow it is frowned upon having exhaust gasses escaping under the car and potentially coming in through holes in the floor.<br /> <br /> Anyway, the sound is also regulated here, make to much exhaust noise and, yep, that's another hefty fine.<br /> <br /> But as said, rules depend on location, so if this is legal in your community, it is a cheap fix.<br />
In a country where salted highways are a common means of clearing snow and drastically shortening the life-span of a motorvehicles, such a repair should be legal and acceptable, although I do agree with suggestions further down that it should be a tighter fit to prevent discharge under the vehicle.<br /> <br /> Good job!
In my country, (Not third world) We can actually purchase an aluminum coated exhaust system that will (slow) but not eliminate corrosion. Search Flow-master exhaust for performance exhaust systems based on aluminized steel, not food product packaging.
This is why I keep a stick or two of two part epoxy that resists hi-heat for a short period of time. Using it, and the can would actually create a temporary seal of exhaust gases until it could be replaced and welded. It's surprising that people would take the time to post &quot;ghetto&quot; repairs like this that 3rd graders could figure out. Apparently meth and bath salts are stifling creative thought and &quot;peeps&quot; have to be 'showed.&quot;
crazy cool fix up man
With prices on just the small parts for a car I don't blame you. Years ago I&nbsp;needed a muffler on my beat up Tahoe, but I was broke at the time. I ended up making a muffler from material&nbsp;I had around. Clamps, some old exhaust pipe with holes drilled in it, fiberglass insulation and a small stove pipe.<br />
I did a similar repair on my Firebird, using a dog food can.&nbsp; Just remove both ends, use tin snips to cut length-wise, hose clamp on both ends.&nbsp; Lasted a couple of years, just replaced the can when it blew out.<br />
Stainless steel hoseclamps are your friend!<br /> <br /> Two hose clamps(one for each end of the patch) should drastically increase your out-the-muffler flow. Dunno about your mad horsepower gains, but it should at least be quieter.<br /> <br /> not sure what a zoodle is... or wt sort of can it comes in, but as long as the base metal is steel, you should be good fr a couple thousand miles :-)<br />

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