Introduction: Ghostbusters Ecto Goggles
Whilst building my Proton pack for Halloween, I decided to 'go the whole hog' and make some Ecto goggles too.
So here is a short instrucable on how I made them.
They cost me around £15 in parts, with the main cost being the welding goggles.
Other parts bought were a Bike light from the pound shop, a head torch from the pound shop, and paint. Everything else I had in my junk box.
I used this page from the Gbfans.com for the inspiration for my goggles. They are not quite screen accurate, but are passable and go well with my costume. However you cannot see through them, but since they are worn on the head for the most part, it doesn't matter.
Step 1: The Frame
For the main body of the goggles I bought a pair of Flip up welding goggles from ebay.
Then did a few modifications to them to start.
First I removed the glass shade from the goggles. This left a clear perspex cover, which I left in.
Second I cut the tabs off the flip part to give flush side. This was easily done with a sharp craft knife.
I then removed the headband as I wouldn't be using it.
Using the Olive Drab model paint, I game the goggles a couple of light coats, then sat the lens assemblies in place to see how they looked.
Step 2: Lens Assemblies
The two lens assemblies are made from plastic parts with a couple of small bolts screwed into them.
The Right Lens (left in picture)
This bottom half of this is the PVC pipe reducer, painted half with matt black acrylic and half with silver. On top of that is glued the cap/lens from the pound shop bike light. A small bolt from an old Xbox 360 is screwed into the pipe reducer side wall. Done!
The Left Lens (right in picture)
This is a black 35mm film tub with the bottom cut off. A small section of black PVC waste pipe is inserted and a small magnifying lens I had in my bits box glued in the end. A thin strip of aluminium tape finished of the rim.
2 small bolt with nuts screwed all the way on were glued into small holes drilled at 90 degrees to each other on the side of the film tub.
Step 3: Face Plate Finishing
The Perspex face plate had 4 hole drilled, one in each corner. A button head bolt was then screwed in.
The right lens assembly had it position marked and a centre hole drilled to take a 5mm LED later. The lens assembly was then glued in place using epoxy.
The cap off the film tub was fixed in place using a short nut and bolt. The left lens assembly then just snaps onto the lid. Again a hole was drilled to take a 5mm LED.
Step 4: Lights and Wiring.
The circuit for the LED's is very simple. 2 x 5mm bright green and a 5mm red LED are wired together in series with the toggle switch and connected to the battery clip. There is no resistor in this circuit, but it works just fine without as the voltage drop across each LED is roughly 2.5-2.8v so adding up to just under 9v.
The red LED is mounted in a rubber grommet, and the toggle switch is mounted in a hole just under it.
The green LED's just push fit into 5mm holes drilled earlier.
The 9v battery is wedged into the frame.
Step 5: Headband and Final Details
The original headband didn't have a strap over the top, and had a yellow zig-zag stripe on it. This didn't look right so I replaced it with the strap from a pound shop head torch. A top mounting point had to be created. This was done by cutting a slot in the top of the goggles and feeding the strap through, sewing it into place.
Final details were added with decals downloaded from hprops.com (PDFs below)
Both PDF's were printed on normal printer paper and then sprayed with clear matt acrylic. In hindsight I should have used gloss. When they were dry I cut out the goggle labels, and several of the small warning labels from the proton pack set. They were then applied using double sided tape. i couldn't find clear photos of where the decals went so I just did what looked good.
The knob under the right lens is a metal cap from a radiator valve, it just screwed onto the rubber vent on the underside if the goggles.
A thin strip of black neoprene rubber from the craft shop was glued along the brow section to make them a little more comfortable.
This was quite a quick project and not too difficult, but are very effective. They finish the final costume just right.
Hope you enjoyed reading this and if there are any questions, please just ask.