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This is how to make a 45" tall Christmas Star, lit or unlit.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Materials:
(3) 1" x 2" x 8' PVC trim board (Menards)
     ( I chose this instead of wood, no warp, no rot, no bugs, and was pretty cheap too)

(2) 50 light set ultra bright LED Chrismas light set (optional) (Home Depot)

Screws (Drywall - coarse, 1-5/8 long)

PVC Cement

Tools:
Miter Saw
Drill - optional

Step 2: Construction

The plan:

  Cut (6) boards per attached drawing.  (.pdf  and AutoCAD attached included here - no extra charge!)
     A. There are (3) unique pieces, 2 each
     B. There are only 3 different angles.



Step 3: Sub Assembly

Joints shown. You can use PVC Cement, or screws, or nails to secure.
If using screws or nails, and you want to add the 'lights' option - offset these for the light location.

Note -  I kept track of each segment while cutting with numbers taped on!


Assemble (2) sub-assemblies (right and left). I laid one over the other to align everything perfect before gluing.


Step 4: Final Assembly

Lay one part over the other, align and join together!

Note the horizontal bar overlaps each other!

There you have it! Note the lap joint on top, and the overlap on the horizonal piece in the center pentagon.

Step 5: Optional Lighting!! - Way Cooler Too!

 Purchase your lights first! This will allow you to measure wire between bulbs, and plan your spacing.

I used Home depot 50 bulb extreme bright chrystal clear  ecosmart LED string. (qty 2 -100 lamps total)

Using my "goesinto" button on my calculator, that gives me 20 lamps per point. I ended up with about 1-3/4 or so spacing between bulbs. Make a plan, mark locations and drill away. (I suggest double check on your count first!)   I used a 3/8" thru drill, then had to add a taper from the back with a 'pinecone' shaped burr tool to fit the lamp socket.  Test fit your lamps so the entire bulb protrudes, but not too far. Different bulbs or brands may require different holes. 

Since I had (2) strings, I populated the star every other hole. This could be for a cool effect of lighting one or the other string, and still have a star shape. (Think TSO and a  light sequencer) Also solves the problem of bunched up wires.

I started my strings on the lower point, my plan is to have the star up high, and feed electricity from below.

Step 6: More Wiring

Place both strands into the holes. I secured them with a goob of hot glue to keep everything in place.
The only area I had trouble with was the peak, I had to make a path for the wires, this was the only place it was a bit tight.

Light 'em up and enjoy!
<p>Appreciate response - I had thought that was how you got the 162 degrees - i built a right angle fence for miter saw cut the 162 as directed as an 18 degree . Still not perfect lineup - I believe it has something to do with the overlapping pieces and there length to butting up with the 47.8 pieces. Throws the angles off somehow - I end up with different sized points 2 - the same and three different. - checked all angles - looks exactly like your pics before assemble. This has got to be something small that I am missing.</p><p>I will keep plugging still using scrap 1x2 furring pieces - so not a lot of $$$$$ - I will keep plugging along. </p><p>Again thanks - if you think of anything i should check - drop me a reply,</p>
<p>Very good. Very economical use of materials. I will be making a few for yard trees this holiday. One failure so far - first attempt on scrap - have a question on cutting angles. I see that two of the main pieces are 47.8 in length - it is the angle that may be causing me the &quot;not matching up&quot; issue - when assembling the two halves.</p><p>How did you cut the 162 degree angles - it is a 18 degree complement angle. Tried freehand but not a good dry fit at all. Using Miter saw - still not much success.</p><p>How did you go about getting cuts required. </p><p>Any help/recommendations will be appreciated.</p><p>Thanks,</p>
<p>It has been awhile since I made this. Yes, 162 degrees is not an easy set. If I remember correctly, I clamped the board perpendicular to the miter fence and cut at 18 degrees. Be safe doing this! Another method would be mark it out with a speed square, but probably not as accurate. </p>
Nice!
Love it! Much cleaner than many of the other examples I've seen. Thanks for sharing

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