Giant Jenga Diy

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Introduction: Giant Jenga Diy

Hey everybody it's momo. And today were going to make an outdoor Jenga set/ lawn jenga! Do enjoy!

Step 1: Supplies

1- sander
2- power saw
3- 8 foot long, 2x4 wide wood
4- (not necessary, but advised) safety glasses

Step 2: On the Power Saw

Put in a stopper thing so you won't have to measure every time. The stopper should be at 8 and one forth inches away from the blade knife saw thing (as you can see, I don't know much)

Step 3: Cut

Just simply saw until you have a piece not big enough to be an actual block. You should get 11 full blocks out of each plank

Step 4: Sand That Puppy

That's a violent title. Anyways, you just want to sand like shown above and sway the piece back and forth, so you sand the whole thing. Do this to all of the edges

Step 5: BLOCK SIZE (very Important)

As you can see this step is important. It should be 8.5 inches long, 1.5 tall, and about 2.6 inches wide. (Just go in order of pictures AND YOU WANT TO CUT OFF THE AMOUNT SHOWN FOR THE WIDTH) I used 9 planks (11 blocks each plank) after all the math, I got about 4.12 feet tall for the total set

Step 6: What I Did

To make it more orderly (just a tip) you can put them into a wheelbarrow when you finish cutting and sanding

Step 7: Finish!

And now you have really cool lawn jenga! Fun to play if you invite some friends over or just something to kill time. Hope you have fun!

Step 8: If You Haven't Already...

If you haven't already click that button and follow the farm family and give a cow it's wings! Love y'all •_£

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    24 Comments

    Haha. These are Not 2x4s. If you plan on using 2x4s, plan for 10.5" pieces!

    Correct. 2 X 4s require 10 and 1/2 inch cuts.

    We are having trouble with our blocks sliding. Has anyone had that problem? I tried the wax paper suggestion but it didn't work. Any ideas?

    Minwax Gloss Polyurethane. My set is stained, so I used Minwax gloss Polyshades, first. Then follow up with a coat of spray Gloss Polyurethane. Always Gloss. Never semi-gloss. Semi-gloss doesn't give it the same "slickness" It takes 2-3 days for all that poly to fully cure, but once it does, you will love the results.

    So is it possible to just do the gloss polyurethane without the polyshades first? Or do you recommend staining first for better sliding? Also, do you spray one side at a time, let it dry, then flip over and spray the other side after 2-3 days?

    This is not as easy as it looks. You are dealing with rough framing lumber here. They must be planed down to exact thickness, otherwise you get different thicknesses of blocks. This makes some of them practically fall out while the block next to it is impossible to pull out because it is bearing the weight of the whole stack. I am finding this out the hard way on making this for a client. Plane down your material first! If you're lucky enough to have access to a surface planer...

    I saw an interview with the British lady who commercialized the game (which she learned as a kid in South Afrika a long time ago) and she did specifically mention that the original game was made by hand with all the imperfections that implied. According to her some blocks almost falling out and others being pinned is the point of the game.

    When they mass produced the game, planing them into perfect pieces was a problem as it made the game too easy and they had to add imperfections to the blocks in the planing process so they are NOT all the same.

    (She and the game Jenga is profiled in season 1 episode 9 of the "Million Dollar Genius" tv show on the History Channel)

    You need To teach the KNUCKLEHEAD in the pictures how to use a chop saw before he hurts himself.you don't reach across the blade and cut

    Yeah, that was a good way to lose an arm

    That wasn't very kind