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Step 3Build a frame
The sheets need to be held in place somehow. For that, I built a frame out of 3/4" plywood. I ripped a sheet of plywood down into 9" strips. Then, I used the table saw to cut out grooves for the acrylic sheets and backer sheet to rest in. One pass of the table saw cuts a 1/8" groove - perfect for the acrylic sheets. You need three grooves, or "rabbits" as they are called in woodworking, cut into the sides of the case.
The first is a 1/8" groove close to the front of the frame that will hold the face sheet of acrylic in place. The second is a 1/4" wide grove set an inch back from the first grove that will hold the two clear pieces of acrylic sheet sandwiched together. The third and final groove is significantly wider - 3/4" and holds the backer board of the frame in place. Pass the ripped down sheets of plywood through the table saw with the blade height set to about 3/8", half the thickness of the plywood.
The exact distances between the grooves here really don't matter. Just give yourself about half the length of your peg between the front sheet of acrylic and the clear second sheet so that the peg is securely held in place - two inches of peg means a one inch gap between grooves.
Then, give yourself enough room to comfortably fit in your light fixtures and fans between the second sheet of clear acrylic and the backer board. The Lite Brite I built is 9" deep, has the front face sheet of acrylic set back about a half inch from the front, the second and third sheets set back an inch from there, about 7 inches of empty space behind that for the lights and fans.
The back board was cut to be the same size as the acrylic sheets - 40" x 40", from a laminated fiber board. It holds the whole Lite Brite together and has the lights, fans and supports mounted to it in the next step.
Once the backer board has been cut and the plywood has all been cut with the necessary grooves, you can cut the plywood down to length using a miter saw set at 45 degrees so that when you assemble the frame - you don't have any exposed edges. Cut the plywood into panels that will fit around the backboard and the sheets of acrylic while leaving as little wiggle room as possible.
The first is a 1/8" groove close to the front of the frame that will hold the face sheet of acrylic in place. The second is a 1/4" wide grove set an inch back from the first grove that will hold the two clear pieces of acrylic sheet sandwiched together. The third and final groove is significantly wider - 3/4" and holds the backer board of the frame in place. Pass the ripped down sheets of plywood through the table saw with the blade height set to about 3/8", half the thickness of the plywood.
The exact distances between the grooves here really don't matter. Just give yourself about half the length of your peg between the front sheet of acrylic and the clear second sheet so that the peg is securely held in place - two inches of peg means a one inch gap between grooves.
Then, give yourself enough room to comfortably fit in your light fixtures and fans between the second sheet of clear acrylic and the backer board. The Lite Brite I built is 9" deep, has the front face sheet of acrylic set back about a half inch from the front, the second and third sheets set back an inch from there, about 7 inches of empty space behind that for the lights and fans.
The back board was cut to be the same size as the acrylic sheets - 40" x 40", from a laminated fiber board. It holds the whole Lite Brite together and has the lights, fans and supports mounted to it in the next step.
Once the backer board has been cut and the plywood has all been cut with the necessary grooves, you can cut the plywood down to length using a miter saw set at 45 degrees so that when you assemble the frame - you don't have any exposed edges. Cut the plywood into panels that will fit around the backboard and the sheets of acrylic while leaving as little wiggle room as possible.
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