Step 3: Trimming the Panels

To start I cut all the trim pieces from the 2" and 3" pine (based on the sizes in figures 4 & 5). Start with Panel A (figure 4) - place the boards on the box to make sure the fit. Start with the top and make the 2" board flush with the top with 3/4" overhang on both sides. Glue the back of the board and clamp to the box. Screw from the inside of the box with pre-drilled holes and countersink the 3 screws. This will attach the board permanently to the box face and you can now remove the clamps. Repeat for the two side boards and then the bottom board. Remember to put some glue on the ends of the trim board where they but against the previous board. You should have overhangs on each side except the top.

Rotate the box 180 degrees and attach the trim on the other "A" panel repeating the same steps from side 1.  Flip the box 90 degrees and attach the panel "B" trim using the same glue and screw method as above (figure 5). Flip one more time 180 degrees and attach the last panel trim for the main box.
I love this! I'm at the painting step and I have a couple questions about that. Did you use oil or water based varnish? Did you stick the repositionable plastic right onto the wood? And did you roll, paint, or spray the stencils? Thanks so much - Jill
I used water based (latex) paint &amp; varnish and I brished on everything. I varnished the whole piece first. Then stuck the plastic to the varnished wood.. then taped it all around with painters tape. I pressed the stencil down as hard as I could to make sure it was stuck... then I varnished over top of it to seal the edges. This helps stop paint from going under the stencil. Then I brushed the color on. <br> <br>I did this in my condo.. if I had a workshop I may have sprayed it but it ended up looking really good with the thick coat of brushed on paint. <br> <br>I would love to see your when it is finsihed please post a picture! <br>
If you like this project check out my Vintage Tricycle Restoration: <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Vintage-Tricycle-Resurrection-with-Modern-Technolo/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Vintage-Tricycle-Resurrection-with-Modern-Technolo/</a>
Avoiding lid crushing is one of two key safety concerns with any toybox. Congrats on taking care of that one (though technically, I believe the spec requires that the lid not move at all when stopped at any position).<br><br>The other concern is suffocation if a child is playing inside with the lid closed. Common examples are hiding there during hide-n-seek or playing there when the lid drifts closed (due to the lid slowly closing since the flap-stay can't completely keep the lid up).<br><br>Air holes can often be designed into the top edges as a bit of styling (i.e.: it's not obvious they're air holes) or as through-handles (again, not obvious they're air holes but they solve the suffocation problem).<br><br>I tried finding the full Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) spec online but it appears to be copyrighted now by ASTM and they charge for it. Years ago, I had a printed copy free from the CPSC that covered all toy safety&hellip;very educational for anybody making things kids play with.
There is no latch on the lid that would lock the lid down. There is also a 3/16 inch gap along three edges of the lid (except the back where the piano hinge is located) the linear distance of the gap is 54&quot; for a total air gap equivalent to a 2&quot; high by 5&quot; long hole. As you can see in the pictures there are pads in the front corners on both the lid and and on the main body of the box to keep the gap even if there is would be some weight on the top. With the size of box and amount of gap I cannot see how suffocation could happen. Also one of the reasons for using pine is the fact that it is a very light wood and just by standing the child would be able to push the lid up.
Very cool! I didn't catch the thickness of the pads earlier. Perfect solution.<br><br>I wasn't worried about the lid latching, just closing without an air gap. You have it well handled. I hope it brings her years of happy play time! :-)
If you wanted to keep your child inside of the box you would just have to place something heavy on top of it.
wow those are so cute i think i might make one for a puppet
Lovely! How much will those hydrolic holders cost. Those look quite safe for a kid!
They are under $20 - http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40597&amp;cat=3,41427 best thing for a toy box, especially the size that I built...

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