Instructables

$70 paint job (color change from silver to black)

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One of the coolest projects I have seen here is the $70 dollar paint job.This method uses Rustoleum as a substitute for expensive car paint thats why is so cheap. Who does not want to get a really nice car to be an incredible car just for $70, right? Well also the number one question everybody has in those instructables is…how can I make my car black? Is it hard to change the color of the car? Is it true that paint a black car is harder? And so on. A lot of people imagine how good would their car look with a new paint job and some would love to paint their cars a different color especially black, well I decided to take the risk and try it myself. I thought the worse think it can happened it’s that I have to sand it all down and start all over again.
So I decided to take the project in my own hands and hopefully help anybody that decides to take on the project too.
I have always love my car and even with the paint all faded I always saw the potential it had if I could only save enough money to get it a new paint job. Also I always believed that it would look really good on black (and I was right).

 
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rcipriano2 months ago

Why not use single stage enamel paint? Itll last longer and costs about the same.

there is a need for clear coat, thats why cars come painted with it.
use a towel under your hand to see if its smooth. helps with surface tension.
Iam4NUru1 year ago
That blackout looks really nice. What car is it that you were painting in the Instructable?
regg_dogg692 years ago
looks good . and hey that was very helpful info . i was just thinking on how to do this project . i have a 96 sedan . and had been doing a little mods to it . such as shaving the doors and frenchin the antenna . my question is how long would the rusteolum last in this texas heat ? thanks again for tha tips . keep up tha great work . lol
hyperr2 years ago
Looks like a Honda.I've seen worse.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  hyperr2 years ago
Ok
Beautiful Job, I LOVE saving money and working on my own stuff! The problem is not changing the car to black. The problem is that if you have any.....um 'boo boo's' on your cars surface, the black color will make them more easily seen. Sort of like a visual amplifier, if you will!
Achan203 years ago
very nice. im thinking about doing this with my 94 camaro. going from white to yellow. lol. or i may just fix the rough spots in the white paint. who knowes. lol. cool over all. how dark is your window tint by the way?
Styluss3 years ago
Thanks for the props! And thank you even more for including a link to my Instructable. It's always good to see that not only are other people giving this a shot, but that they are making their own twists and tweaks to it. Hell, my write up is based off of the $50 dollar paint job; an an article I saw online on how to do it with the roller. I was so impressed I went to do it myself and the rest is history.
http://www.mtncolors.com/
this is the montana spray can link. take a look around :)
dudes here is my help. 25 years doing bodywork and painting cars.
the paint prep is the killer.
do not sand/strip to bare metal!! good solid paint is best to paint over !
clearcoat peeling like the above pic? you can 320/400 sand it till it stops peeling.
rattle can with primer and cover the areas where the paint is what we call broken. these have to be primed to look good.
sand any chips the same way,scratches as well.
for scratches you can wipe glaze(like bondo but more runny) into it with a razor blade then once dry sand with 180 grit DRY paper. then 320/400 then prime 2-3-4 coats .medium coats no thin not wet and runny.
any bondo will need glaze(as above) to com[pletely cover the bondo. then use primer to cover that completely as well. cover it good, you will likely sand most of it back off.
for prepping the car?(sanding) use comet and a gray scotchbrite pad.
you only need to sand the primer with block and 320/400 grit. the rest use comet. it take the shine off the paint. cleans teh paint for your new paint. and is dirt cheap.scrub it like a dirty sink.rinse it really good and dry it off.
try this for your color--try the montana brand of graffitti artist paints . they have gold is a series of cool colors and white is another range of colors.
these are spray cans and are lacquer paints. very high quality paints too. and very cool colors.
take your time masking it all off. use good 3m tape. and good paper. mask in the shade and paint in the shade. with montana you are always chasing the dry paint edge on each stroke.each paint stroke overlap about 50 percent each sweep across the panel.have a helper shaking cans as you go. 3-4 cans for average car 6 cans for a big old cop car size vehicle. if you live in AZ CA NV FLA etc dont paint outside in teh mid day heat, it will cause problems. 6 or 7 am is good or just about dusk will do as well.
if any of it blows up let it dry a couple days and then sand smooth the bad parts with 400 to 600 grit wet or dry paper(use it wet) and smooth it out and repaint the bad parts.

best of luck !!
cbray20103 years ago
NOBODY PAINT WITHOUT A REAL RESPIRATOR!
I saw this ible long ago. Nice work!
!!!THIS IS FOR ANYONE!!! im 16 and im about to get my first car. its a 1997 cavalier the clear coat is peeling off and the paint is fading so it looks crappy and everyone knows its all about looks these days but i dont wana spend more on a paint job than the car is worth cuz its got 180,000 miles but i do want to redo the paint. do you guys think its worth it? if so i need all tips possible to get me going in the right direction. it's a copperish orange color and im thinking a all black or yellow with black.....ideas?
Thanks
Hi, I love your instructable. I wish I had time and guts to go any further from just fixing the rusty spots on my Marea.

However, as far as the ned result is concerned - you tried some buffing?

It does not look overly shiny, mayne buffing with a polishing paste would be of help?
Nelson_Yepez (author)  TomassozzomaT3 years ago
that is on future plans but i just want to make sure the paint its completely cure before doing so, ill sure be posting some pictures when i do.
Polishing is meant to remove the outer layer of faded paint,your paint is not faded because it's new so you wont find anything better under the layer.... you need to add,not remove.Great instructable! Yhanks.
If their top finish is crap they can buff it up to a higher luster. With lacquer that is how you get a shine on it. And when you buff faded paint you don't buff down to a magical interior glossy layer you do remove the oxidized paint but you also make a new shiny surface in the process as well. If their technique is so poor buffing is their only option to achieving the highest gloss they can. When bad choices are the only choices they become the best choices.
http://paintcarendetailing.com/polishing.html even the first sentence here contradicts you,then again share your wisdom with the fellow that painted his car,not me.
Indeed any wisdom I may impart would be totally lost on the likes of you. Can you even read? For the benefit of those that cannot even be bothered to check out your inane URLS I will quote the first line of the page you refer to:

"Polishing is often a misunderstood and intimidating step in the detailing process. "

To begin with that entire page has absolutely NOTHING to do with what we are talking about here. Believe it or not polishing is a very general technique utilized in a variety of disparate tasks.

I will say this about that line though they hit the nail right on the head in the first 5 words when it comes to you.

Now you can be intimidated by my polisher:

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/298/buffergw.jpg

That sucker would rip your arm right off while you burned down to bare metal all over your rat ride.
Holy cow you did a great job! I wouldnt buff it though.At least try on a little spot first.I would think that since you got a spray gun a clear coat would be best,there's nothing shinny inside the paint,I mean under the fine layer that makes the outer paint is all you got,nothing better underneath,only more paint,:) so adding is the best bet.Adding clear coat.I love your honesty about the little mistakes you made,you are one cool dude.Good job on your car! It looks great.Thanks for sharing! Dave. PS: Do the wet sanding again(like you said after the paint is really really dry)with 400 before clear coat and you should have that nice wet look after you are done.
Hey if you do the meguiar buffing, post pictures here. I would like to see the difference...
Great job on the paint!
Nelson_Yepez (author)  strayturk3 years ago
yeah for sure ill let you know.. and thanks
use rubbing compound.
crfive_03 years ago
You should take some pictures that aren't under a tree.. It would show off your paintjob better, and it wouldnt look like your hood was so pitted, at least it looks pitted from the leaves subtle reflection
corkey1233 years ago
Hey, I'd like to see how far you made it inside the engine bay with your paint. I'm going to be doing this to my car (better than $3000..) and have been doing tonnes of research, my car is white so it's going to be a challenge. Great instructable!
A $3,000 paint job should include gutting the entire interior and pulling the engine possibly taking out the glass as well! For three grand I'd want them to pull all the glass.

Either that or you're getting ripped off.
$3000 is what I'm being roughly quoted to get the rust fixed, which is the 4 wheel wells/quarter panels (it's a Honda from the 80's...) and a paintjob, which wouldn't involve the engine bay, interior or removing the windows. Just outside. I've done lots of inquiring of what a shop would let me do in terms of grunt prepwork and turns out they wouldn't warranty their work if I had a hand in it, makes sense I guess. I'm halfway through painting the interior right now actually, and sound deadening at the same time, EFFICIENCY!!!1!
White is the easiest color. Nothing hides more than white does. Heck you could have big drips running down the middle of your door panel and they'd hardly show up in white.
Hah, I meant to say that I'm painting the car black, and it's white at the moment. That's where the challenge is :P
You always wanted manly shoulders didn't you? By the time you get done wet sanding you should be well on your way! Two tips, 1 buy 3M wet or dry sanding paper and 2 find out what painters glazing putty is. Both should put you ahead of where you'll be if you don't.

If your car isn't in too bad a shape there is this product called Ting that is a prep surfacer you might want to investigate as well. Ting is like a pro bodyman's secret weapon I shouldn't even be talking about in a forum like this! But it gets into places sandpaper gets ruined going into and keeps your paint from peeling up out of said places too.

Google like this website is just about brain dead on the topic so this is the best I can do:

http://tinyurl.com/4ar5bpe

I have a tub of it the color of the container looks right to me though. But if a car isn't messed up at all you can just Ting it and paint. Even if it is like I said you can Ting areas you can't sand effectively. Stuff like Ting is the difference between a pro job and a backyard hack job.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  corkey1233 years ago
Ohh that sound fun lol,are you changing the color? what color?
like it says on the instructable the best technique that worked for me to paint in difficult parts like the engine bay or the door hinges if you are spraying is to set up the gun like this:
Air pressure:
high ( from 1-10 use 8 or 9)
Air flow:
med ( from 1-10 use 6 or 7)
Paint flow:
low ( from 1-10 use 2-3)
also if you gun has a nob to control the size of the area you are painting the setting in the picture worked the best for me ( check out pictures on step 6)
LinkTGF3 years ago
I have a 1997 Ford Mustang that I am planning on stripping down with a sand blaster I just bought. Once I get it to bare metal, I have Rustoleum Primer (White) and Rustoleum Gloss Regal Red to repaint the car (with a spray gun)

I'm assuming that because I'm stripping it down to bare metal and then primer-ing, it will be much easier to paint.

Any ideas? Would you still recommend 2-6 coats of the color, or do you thing I would need less because of the primer?

BTW, I love the tutorial - it's a great companion to the poor man's paint job =)
You may want to consider NOT sandblasting it. You will have to be very careful if you do. I have a lot of time behind blasters, hitting everything from large steel stock to sheet steel and aluminum (makes aluminum look like a sugar cube..), and i can tell you that you may not get the result you want.

If you blast it i would use as low a pressure as possible, don't hit it straight on, and be a fair distance away from the sheet steel.

The steel of your Mustang is probably only like 19 or 18 gauge thick. Sandblasting eats away and divots the metal, and the pressure it puts on the panel can VERY easily warp and dent it. The rough surface it makes might prove difficult for the primer to fill as well. Structural parts of the car like the undercarriage, door frames, and rocker panels might be able to handle it but personally i wouldn't risk it on them either.

Car panels that are abrasive cleaned are usually MEDIA blasted. There is also soda blasting but that is not very common. Media blasting uses stuff like walnut shells, glass & plastic beads that are not as aggressive as sand.

If you really want bare steel then i would go the mechanical route with a sander and a scotch brite disk or something. Chemical stripping is also an option. You need to make sure your primer can adhere to bare steel as well. If not you will need something along the lines of a self etching primer, epoxy primer. Prep is real important to. Wiping the metal down with something cheap like mineral spirits will help the paint adhere better and remove any oils etc.

And really if your going to go to all this effort should consider a acrylic urethane SS rather than a $70 oil based job. With them i would get a good primer to. Either an epoxy or urethane.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ford-candy-apple-red-96-oz.html
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp1705.aspx
(check ebay too)
Thanks for the quick reply!

I could definitely try other media to blast with, I'm not tied to sand yet (in fact, I've never done any sand blasting) but I will say that before I do anything on the car, i'm doing months of prep and research work before I even touch the mustang (getting advice, practice, etc) because I like the idea of learning how to do something like this properly and not halfassed.

Before I do anything with the car, I have a fender we pulled off the car (had to replace it cuz we hit a guard rail) and I will be practicing on that to get a feel for all the tools, to see if it's possible to sandblast correctly and to see how the paint looks before I commit to it on the entire car.

Will be stripping to metal, priming, sanding, removing dust with tack cloth, and spraying the base coat - any suggestions on that chain of events? I'm assuming because I'm not using a self etching primer that I'd have to sand the primer to give the paint a surface to adhere to? Or am I over thinking this?

Why should I go with an acrylic paint instead? Will it last longer, or have a better shine, or is that really more in the clearcoat than the type of paint I use? I appreciate any info on the actual paint and the process of painting =)

I will check out the auto paints as well - honestly, the cost of getting that wouldn't break the bank much - I didn't spend much on tools (I already have a33 gal craftsman compressor, got a 120 gal sandblaster for practically free from a garage sale down the street (the guy who sold it to me restores cars) and bought a new nozzle set for it (12 bucks) and just got the spray guns (HVLP) for 50 bucks.
pfred2 LinkTGF3 years ago
Ah so you know about nozzles now do you? Rustoleum is too viscous to pass through a fine enough nozzle to achieve a very glossy finish. As in you can never get the gunk to atomize enough. And thinning Rustoleum down isn't really a viable option either no matter what the idiots on this site will have you believe! Read the can for crying out loud. You cannot add more than 10% thinner by volume to Rustoleum or you defeat its chemical properties. The stuff just curls and peels up like autumn leaves.

Want your car to come out great? Of course you do. Go with the Dupont ChromaSystem base coat clear coat on a PPG primer base. Simply the best.

DO NOT STRIP THE CAR DOWN TO BARE METAL! That is such a bad idea for so many reasons. I can't teach you how to paint a car in this little comment but I can tell you how to do final prep. Wash the car with a detergent, I use dishwashing soap, and rinse it, dry it, then go over the whole car with clean lint free cotton rags soaked in lacquer thinner. Blow dry with compressed air. Best is to use your spray gun empty with the pressure cranked way up. It'll blow out liquids that are better to clean up now than when you are painting.

HVLP is a myth designed to mollify the EPA. If you want the shine bang that pressure up! Oh and when you're painting run 2 20" box fans drawing the spray cloud off the car. It'll cut down on overspray. There is so much to painting a car right. Nothing on this site to help you though.

I mean even the angle of the light you paint in is critical. So much ...
Taking the car down to bare metal is not a bad idea, not sure why you think that. It is the only way to ensure that all the layers of paint are properly done and bonded. A paint job is only as good as whats under it. Plus taking it down to bare metal is the only way to remove previously done (especially poorly done) body work and patch repair. My one Jeep was previously wrecked and the body work was very half-assed. It would not have been a great idea to spray over paint that the wind was practically chipping off, even with the 10 coats of clear the guy hit it with.

Taking down to bare metal may not be his best option, I would judge that on a car to car basis on whether or not that would be worth the time, but still if you want the best result, it is a thing to consider. It is a lot of work and is usually the kind of treatment a restoration or show car would get.. (I would be hesitant to sandblast though.)

And HVLP is not a myth, it refers to the ratio of paint applied to the substrate. Generally 2/3s on, and the rest in the air.. the point being it gets more on what your spraying and less in the air.
Disregard the comment about acrylic urethane SS - I see now that it' combines the color and the shine in one pass and doesn't need sanding.

what do you recommend?
Nelson_Yepez (author)  LinkTGF3 years ago
WOW, i wish i has a sand blaster when i did this you should get a nice finish and save a lot of time. As far as the coats there is no really a way to tell until you star painting but a rule of thumb is always to have the primer as close to the color of the paint so you should considering pouring a little of the red paint in the primer.
Good luck and just remember to be patient when painting waiting between coats to dry was the hardest for me. Hope you can post some pictures.
Unless you have a bridge blaster and a compressor the size of a tractor trailer sand blasting is a very slow and tedious process. I've painted a few cars in my day and I never cease to be amazed at the level of ignorance that is displayed on this site on the topic. Let me tell you hours of entertainment!
I will most likely make an instructable if all goes well - I just have to wait til I have a free week and it gets warmer out (spring break, most likely)

Any advice on spraying? I've never really done any spray gunning, but I'm assuming that as long as I keep the spray light and consistent that I shouldn't run into runs and drips?
pfred2 LinkTGF3 years ago
Hey of you're going to use Rustoleum you might as well take advantage of the paint's inherent rust treatment properties and just let it have it! It is going to come out like crap anyways. You're painting it with Rustoleum after all!
pfred23 years ago
For Gods sake if you're going to put the amount of labor it takes to paint a car use the right products! They don't cost that much more really. There is absolutely no rational justification not to.

I mean if you're Superman it could still take you 3 days just to wet sand a whole car properly. Why would you want to skip paying maybe $50 more to use the right stuff?

Pro tip: A case of beer and a few friends can go a long way towards cutting down on prep time depending on just how dorky your friends are. As in they have to be dorky enough to take you up on the offer but not so dorky they cannot be trained how to properly sand.
radiobath3 years ago
I highly suggest if you have the money, don't get Bondo, get something that has a Kevlar in it. That way, when someone dings your car, it doesn't crack/shatter as easily as Bondo. It's slightly more expensive, but worth it in the end. I've been suggesting it to all who do case modding, armor cosplay, and car repairs. Stuff is legit.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  radiobath3 years ago
Thanks for checking out my project and yeah def that stuff sounds legit and i would look into it for other project but if you noticed this project its all about budget so it would not be smart to spend more money in body filler than all the project materials together.
Well of course. And there's always the option of skipping the body filler completely, saving you even more money.

But for DIYers that have the extra cash to go big or go home, they can rent the Mega Sprayer 5000, get a nice clearcoat, and use Kevlar body filler. In the end, it would *still* be cheaper than getting it professionally painted, look just as good, and you get the full bragging rights.

I love your instructable, and I'll definitely be using it once it's summer. I may have a beat-up old crappy car, but a new paint job makes just about any car look sexy.
That is what I did when I did my truck. I said well its a truck so all one color is good enough for me. We call those 50 feeters, as in they look good from about 50 feet or more away.
itzsnitz3 years ago
Awesome job, thanks for posting for the community. I've always wanted to tackle making my own paint booth, can you describe the setup of your booth? For example, was your booth completely sealed/closed while prepping and painting? If so, what did you do to provide ventilation?
Nelson_Yepez (author)  itzsnitz3 years ago
Thanks, well i used my mom's house patio, there is a 7' fence and i set up the booth on the corner so i only had to worry about making a wall on one side. i used a 12' by 12' tarp for the roof (got it at target on clearance for $3.99) and painters plastic tarp for the sides (home depot 12' by 9' $1.99). For ventilation i picked up 3 of those old square fans at a goodwill store ( $2.99 ea.) and i put 2 fans with air output side towards the outside and one towards the inside. So you have two taking out the contaminated air from the inside and one putting fresh air inside. Now the most important part you need is 3 air conditioned filters that will cover you fan totally on one side, they will filter the air coming in from dirt that can stick to you fresh paint and filter and trap the paint from the fans trowing air out so the paint does not go onto the environment and any other thing outside of the booth. all the filters go on the outside of the fans. i did i quick paint sketch of the booth in step 6 nets to the picture of the booth at the end.
If you want to go totally pro have a garden hose running water under the car while you paint it. Real down draft paint booths have water troughs to catch the overspray. Me, I just spray the ground right before I paint. That and the ground is still wet from when I washed the car usually. I bet you wish you car came out like this huh?

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/781/tapepick.jpg

Like a mirror! The metal (gold & silver) metallics are the hardest paints to get right maybe pearls. But pearls are hard for a different reason.

20 years later and it still looks good
http://a.imageshack.us/img832/1705/p1010023w.jpg

Now that's a paint job! Did cost me a tad over $70 though ... Maybe slap another zero on the end and it'd be closer to what the paint cost. Another zero for total investment.
shinycarguy3 years ago
Sweet Job well done on this Instructable, Did you use primer after you did the body work, before you painted it black.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  shinycarguy3 years ago
yes i did prime the spots where i had bare metal only.
blero11583 years ago
you destroyed you car
Nelson_Yepez (author)  blero11583 years ago
ummm,,, still drives so i don't think so....and don't worry is just a car.
compaqxp1233 years ago
I've got a 200$ beater that I don't expect to have in a year and anything would look better then it's current pealing green colour.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  compaqxp1233 years ago
yeahhh when you have a paint job that can get any worse that is definitely a good candidate for this project.
chamunks3 years ago
I have to point out that if you plan on obscuring your licence plate using the annotations wont do it if someone really wanted to know they could just save the pictures to their hard drives to read past them... just had to point that out otherwise *Favorited.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  chamunks3 years ago
Thanks for checking out my instructable, yeah that was point out already and i knew it before they pointed out, i was just lazy about it,and if someone didnt know by reading your comment now they do...
shrug if they dont know it by now they probably wont be reading this comment anyways.
dentman13 years ago
pro body man.do not rub it. paint will melt. and the buffer cost more than the paint.
cyprian9163 years ago
why isn't it as shiny as a new car ...just curious lol seems weird to go to all that trouble and end up with a matte finish car.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  cyprian9163 years ago
well the paint is semi gloss i dont like the super shiny look but.. it is going to be shinier than what it is once i buff it.
My Dad used several coats of Rustoleum and clear coat for my new fender. It matched my car perfectly! Nice to know someone else has used it on their car!
rosenred3 years ago
May I ask? When you say "...was pita" do you mean as in really drunk?
I don't know if this is a serious question, or sarcasm, but when he says "pita" he's using it as an acronym for "pain in the a--".
No, shiftlock I was being serious. :) I explained what pita means in Greek. But it's nice to know that there's another meaning in english which can lead to funny confusions :)

Cheers!
Nelson_Yepez (author)  rosenred3 years ago
ummmm what?
In one of the pictures above you said: "Big damage...Was Pita". In Greek pita (πίτα) means pie and when you say "I am pita" you mean "I am dead drunk". :)
menahunie3 years ago
Good job; but you can buy a paint "kit" from sellers on Ebay. They include the paint, reducer, Hardener "makes it really shiny", and more from 65-200.00.
Basic enamel or base/clear.
I did paint a car with Black rattle can rusto ( took a case to do it ) and it faded after a year.
Probably due to where I live; very high UV and it even blows the clear coat on factory paint off cars. I read it is due to EPA requirements and sprayers are having to use a water based paint instead of the older ones with a solvent in it.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  menahunie3 years ago
Thank you and yes i know you can get cheap car paint like on Auto Parts they have $25 Dupont car paint quarters but the purpose was that i wanted to do it with Rustoleum paint like the original project and also help people that had questions about changing the color of the car and painting the car black.
Anthrix3 years ago
If you want hot results. First think need to use primer coat after this coat you will hide all scratch then you can use your paint after that need to spray clear coat to shine ;)
brobinson3 years ago
Make sure to use Meguiers Ultimate Compound, a variable speed buffer and a good pad (soft white foam worked well for me). I did a roll on job last year and you can't tell that's how it was applied. I used the same paint as you- you will be amazed with the gloss if you follow my advice!

The additional cost will be increased by an additional 40-60 dollars, but well worth it.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  brobinson3 years ago
oh yeah thats i great advice thanks a lot, it will also be nice if you can post some pictures.
EmmettO3 years ago
Just an FYI, the text boxes over the plates is not an effective way of blurring or blocking people from reading them. A right click and an "Open image in a new window" will show the picture without the Javascript boxes. I have no interest in the plates but it was obviously a concern so I mention it.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  EmmettO3 years ago
yeah i knew that but was lazy about uploading new pictures...well whoever didn't figure that before now they did.
I thought about that and came to the conclusion that anyone that wasn't able to figure out how to get around the obfuscation wouldn't know what to do with the information.
What should we do with the information now that we have it? :) Get a corrupt police officer to find their home address so we can steal their Rustoleum cans?
Very nice! A good 'ible for someone not wanting to spend $4000+ on a paint-job for a daily driver or project car in-the-making. And I really dig the flat black finish - looks clean. Keep up the good work!
ac1D3 years ago
I hope that you realize that your picture with yellow square on em to hide the car plate.. well, it don't hide it :)


Nice project!
CementTruck3 years ago
Ha! cool!

You should have painted it with Krylon and entered it in the Krylon contest too. ;)
Good 'ible, but all the text boxes in the pictures just scream at me in a billy mayes voice. Great job, but please don't capitalize everything.
l8nite3 years ago
I like the matte finish
Nelson_Yepez (author)  l8nite3 years ago
thanks
Valas Hune3 years ago
great instructable and well made.
I don't know if i missed it, but I believe your first coat of paint should be a rust proof primer, just to make the paint last and keep the metal healthy. As well I agree with Clayton H comment with putting a coat of clear on it, just to prevent starches, any rocks on the road will for sure make easy scratches.
Nelson_Yepez (author)  Valas Hune3 years ago
thanks, the paint is attaching to the original paint so there is not need of primer unless for some reason you have to get to bare metal like when doing body work or some times when you sand too much on the corners or the edges you usually get to the metal pretty quickly and i did mention you have to spray primer on those spots.
Excellent idea!
I Like for you Smile in Dor :)
lemonie3 years ago

Comprehensive stuff, thanks for sharing this.
You might add some of your advice about working in a space full of petroleum-vapours, it's hazardous and a filtration-mask won't stop a person from breathing the stuff.

L
When in doubt, wear a respirator!
Nelson_Yepez (author)  lemonie3 years ago
yes as i said i have way many tips that im going to be updating really soon. thanks
murder it out, son!
bowmaster3 years ago
Looks sweet, like Batman's daily driver!!!
Nelson_Yepez (author)  bowmaster3 years ago
i get that a lot lol... thanks
Clayton H.3 years ago
I suggest you ad a couple coats of clear. It shines it up and it protects the paint for light scratches. My brother had to repaint the tailgate of my truck and for got to put clear on. that was about 6 or 7 months ago, now practicly all the paint is gone and its rusted up. I suggest you add some clear if you do not want rust.
i agree. i painted the tank of a motorcycle kinda like this and didnt clearcoat, and now like a year later its all peeled and rusty and looks like crap.
kill-a-watt3 years ago
Here's a bondo tip: The reason the spreader is pink is because that's the color of the mix with the "ideal" hardener ratio. Of course, you can get away with less, that just lengthens the drying time.