One of the coolest projects I have seen here is the $70 dollar paint job.This method uses Rustoleum as a substitute for expensive car paint thats why is so cheap. Who does not want to get a really nice car to be an incredible car just for $70, right? Well also the number one question everybody has in those instructables is…how can I make my car black? Is it hard to change the color of the car? Is it true that paint a black car is harder? And so on. A lot of people imagine how good would their car look with a new paint job and some would love to paint their cars a different color especially black, well I decided to take the risk and try it myself. I thought the worse think it can happened it’s that I have to sand it all down and start all over again.
So I decided to take the project in my own hands and hopefully help anybody that decides to take on the project too.
I have always love my car and even with the paint all faded I always saw the potential it had if I could only save enough money to get it a new paint job. Also I always believed that it would look really good on black (and I was right).
So I decided to take the project in my own hands and hopefully help anybody that decides to take on the project too.
I have always love my car and even with the paint all faded I always saw the potential it had if I could only save enough money to get it a new paint job. Also I always believed that it would look really good on black (and I was right).
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Read me first...
This job can be performed in different ways:
1. Spray the paint (I decide that I want to spray the paint just because I believe is the easiest way)
Spray it’s the easiest but is the one that requires the most prep work of all.
2. Rolling the paint is great and it gives almost the same results as spraying if you do it right, and its involves normal amount of prep work for this kind of job.
3. Brushing the paint is the original method, I believed that is the hardest and the one that is going to give you the most flaws but it has worked great for the people that have done it with care and patience also it has normal amount of prep work.
In my instructable I’m going to concentrate in explaining the process in spraying black paint and changing the color of your car.
I am not an expert in spraying paint, its actually my first time doing this, so all inexpert reading this can feel better. If I did it you can do it to.
This is the link for an intructable that used this method by brushing, rolling would follow the same steps but use a high density foam roller instead.
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/
Disclaimer: I am not in any way responsible for what you chose to do; this is an informative instructable and here I’m explaining my methods and my own way of doing things. If you car looks in any way like my car did there is no way at the end would look worse that before.
1. Spray the paint (I decide that I want to spray the paint just because I believe is the easiest way)
Spray it’s the easiest but is the one that requires the most prep work of all.
2. Rolling the paint is great and it gives almost the same results as spraying if you do it right, and its involves normal amount of prep work for this kind of job.
3. Brushing the paint is the original method, I believed that is the hardest and the one that is going to give you the most flaws but it has worked great for the people that have done it with care and patience also it has normal amount of prep work.
In my instructable I’m going to concentrate in explaining the process in spraying black paint and changing the color of your car.
I am not an expert in spraying paint, its actually my first time doing this, so all inexpert reading this can feel better. If I did it you can do it to.
This is the link for an intructable that used this method by brushing, rolling would follow the same steps but use a high density foam roller instead.
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/
Disclaimer: I am not in any way responsible for what you chose to do; this is an informative instructable and here I’m explaining my methods and my own way of doing things. If you car looks in any way like my car did there is no way at the end would look worse that before.
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
this is the montana spray can link. take a look around :)
the paint prep is the killer.
do not sand/strip to bare metal!! good solid paint is best to paint over !
clearcoat peeling like the above pic? you can 320/400 sand it till it stops peeling.
rattle can with primer and cover the areas where the paint is what we call broken. these have to be primed to look good.
sand any chips the same way,scratches as well.
for scratches you can wipe glaze(like bondo but more runny) into it with a razor blade then once dry sand with 180 grit DRY paper. then 320/400 then prime 2-3-4 coats .medium coats no thin not wet and runny.
any bondo will need glaze(as above) to com[pletely cover the bondo. then use primer to cover that completely as well. cover it good, you will likely sand most of it back off.
for prepping the car?(sanding) use comet and a gray scotchbrite pad.
you only need to sand the primer with block and 320/400 grit. the rest use comet. it take the shine off the paint. cleans teh paint for your new paint. and is dirt cheap.scrub it like a dirty sink.rinse it really good and dry it off.
try this for your color--try the montana brand of graffitti artist paints . they have gold is a series of cool colors and white is another range of colors.
these are spray cans and are lacquer paints. very high quality paints too. and very cool colors.
take your time masking it all off. use good 3m tape. and good paper. mask in the shade and paint in the shade. with montana you are always chasing the dry paint edge on each stroke.each paint stroke overlap about 50 percent each sweep across the panel.have a helper shaking cans as you go. 3-4 cans for average car 6 cans for a big old cop car size vehicle. if you live in AZ CA NV FLA etc dont paint outside in teh mid day heat, it will cause problems. 6 or 7 am is good or just about dusk will do as well.
if any of it blows up let it dry a couple days and then sand smooth the bad parts with 400 to 600 grit wet or dry paper(use it wet) and smooth it out and repaint the bad parts.
best of luck !!
Thanks
However, as far as the ned result is concerned - you tried some buffing?
It does not look overly shiny, mayne buffing with a polishing paste would be of help?
"Polishing is often a misunderstood and intimidating step in the detailing process. "
To begin with that entire page has absolutely NOTHING to do with what we are talking about here. Believe it or not polishing is a very general technique utilized in a variety of disparate tasks.
I will say this about that line though they hit the nail right on the head in the first 5 words when it comes to you.
Now you can be intimidated by my polisher:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/298/buffergw.jpg
That sucker would rip your arm right off while you burned down to bare metal all over your rat ride.
Great job on the paint!
Either that or you're getting ripped off.
If your car isn't in too bad a shape there is this product called Ting that is a prep surfacer you might want to investigate as well. Ting is like a pro bodyman's secret weapon I shouldn't even be talking about in a forum like this! But it gets into places sandpaper gets ruined going into and keeps your paint from peeling up out of said places too.
Google like this website is just about brain dead on the topic so this is the best I can do:
http://tinyurl.com/4ar5bpe
I have a tub of it the color of the container looks right to me though. But if a car isn't messed up at all you can just Ting it and paint. Even if it is like I said you can Ting areas you can't sand effectively. Stuff like Ting is the difference between a pro job and a backyard hack job.
like it says on the instructable the best technique that worked for me to paint in difficult parts like the engine bay or the door hinges if you are spraying is to set up the gun like this:
Air pressure:
high ( from 1-10 use 8 or 9)
Air flow:
med ( from 1-10 use 6 or 7)
Paint flow:
low ( from 1-10 use 2-3)
also if you gun has a nob to control the size of the area you are painting the setting in the picture worked the best for me ( check out pictures on step 6)
I mean if you're Superman it could still take you 3 days just to wet sand a whole car properly. Why would you want to skip paying maybe $50 more to use the right stuff?
Pro tip: A case of beer and a few friends can go a long way towards cutting down on prep time depending on just how dorky your friends are. As in they have to be dorky enough to take you up on the offer but not so dorky they cannot be trained how to properly sand.
But for DIYers that have the extra cash to go big or go home, they can rent the Mega Sprayer 5000, get a nice clearcoat, and use Kevlar body filler. In the end, it would *still* be cheaper than getting it professionally painted, look just as good, and you get the full bragging rights.
I love your instructable, and I'll definitely be using it once it's summer. I may have a beat-up old crappy car, but a new paint job makes just about any car look sexy.
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/781/tapepick.jpg
Like a mirror! The metal (gold & silver) metallics are the hardest paints to get right maybe pearls. But pearls are hard for a different reason.
20 years later and it still looks good
http://a.imageshack.us/img832/1705/p1010023w.jpg
Now that's a paint job! Did cost me a tad over $70 though ... Maybe slap another zero on the end and it'd be closer to what the paint cost. Another zero for total investment.
I'm assuming that because I'm stripping it down to bare metal and then primer-ing, it will be much easier to paint.
Any ideas? Would you still recommend 2-6 coats of the color, or do you thing I would need less because of the primer?
BTW, I love the tutorial - it's a great companion to the poor man's paint job =)