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Step 3Casting the Resin Body
The battery pack will not be totally embedded in the resin body-- the body and the battery case must be separate entities so that switching batteries will be possible. Cover your prepped battery case (without the batteries) and LED light with a layer of foil, a layer of plastic wrap, and another layer of foil. Make sure to smooth out the side with the LED-- that side will be faced down in the resin later. Cover the whole thing with scotch tape. To cover any possible rips.
To prevent overflowing of the resin, use the water displacement method again and figure out how much resin is needed to be put in the mold now with the added volume of the battery case. Aim to make a little more than that amount.
Spray some of the mold release all over the rubber mold (don't forget to aim inside the handle) and all over the now-foil-armored battery pack.
Strap up your safety goggles and rubber gloves and start preparing the clear resin cast solution according to your kit's instructions. Pour the solution into the mold.
Wait for an hour or two, or until the solution is in a soft ball stage of viscosity. Take the covered battery pack, aim it so that your margins are consistent, and place the battery case into the resin. Since the resin is very viscous after an hour or two, the battery case will not sink to the bottom, thus piercing through the resin body. However, the battery case might float unevenly so use a coin to even it out.
Wait for the resin to cure completely (about three days). Plop the resin out of the silicone mold, and pull the battery case out from the resin. Yay! Resin body complete!...almost.
Sand the outer surface (the "show surface") and the battery imprint side of the resin body to achieve a nice, even frosty texture. The sanding will diffuse the LED light more evenly from its central position. Use computer air dusting spray to get the sanded resin dust off.
To prevent overflowing of the resin, use the water displacement method again and figure out how much resin is needed to be put in the mold now with the added volume of the battery case. Aim to make a little more than that amount.
Spray some of the mold release all over the rubber mold (don't forget to aim inside the handle) and all over the now-foil-armored battery pack.
Strap up your safety goggles and rubber gloves and start preparing the clear resin cast solution according to your kit's instructions. Pour the solution into the mold.
Wait for an hour or two, or until the solution is in a soft ball stage of viscosity. Take the covered battery pack, aim it so that your margins are consistent, and place the battery case into the resin. Since the resin is very viscous after an hour or two, the battery case will not sink to the bottom, thus piercing through the resin body. However, the battery case might float unevenly so use a coin to even it out.
Wait for the resin to cure completely (about three days). Plop the resin out of the silicone mold, and pull the battery case out from the resin. Yay! Resin body complete!...almost.
Sand the outer surface (the "show surface") and the battery imprint side of the resin body to achieve a nice, even frosty texture. The sanding will diffuse the LED light more evenly from its central position. Use computer air dusting spray to get the sanded resin dust off.
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