Step 1: Supplies and Tools
- 1 x Ikea FRACK extendable mirror
- 1 x Thick Fender washer, about 1/8" thick with a 2" to 3" diameter. Mine was 2 1/4"
- 1 x Coupling nut - size is 6.5mm. One that is 1/4" will work in a pinch, but it is slightly smaller then the Ikea bolt on the base rod. You can re-use more of the mirror unit by snapping the swivel part of the mirror off of the nut attached to the mirror. It is only compression riveted on. I tested it myself and it was rather simple to pop out with a punch and hammer.
- 1 x Screw that fits the coupling nut, this will be used to prevent slag from entering the nut. If you are careful you can skip this step, but slag loves to land in threaded components.
- 1 x Length of steel rod 3/8" by at least 1 1/2 feet long. The extra length facilitates in the bend, if done by hand. If you are frack'n strong or have a steel bender, go with the absolute minimum of 1 foot
- 1 x Steel Ball Bearing - the diameter used was 1 1/4" inches. You could go larger but it has to be able to slip easily through a roll of toilet paper.
- Wire feed welder, MIG, TIG or stick welder. I use an el-cheapo Princess Auto wire feed welder. I would recommend a MIG welder with full gas. None of that pesky slag to deal with.
- Bench clamp
- Angle grinder with a zip-cut abrasive cutting disk, and a grinding disk. Ideal is a flap disk its grinds but leaves a smooth finish. They are worth it! A good grinder is this one from Sears - http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00926438000-1?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0
- You may need a drill and drill bit that matches your rod diameter. Here is a nice one from Sears - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00926302000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
- A Dremel with a drum bit will help get in to the those tight spots to grind out some of the welds.
- And of course safety gear. A good welding mask, full face shield, ear protection, thick leather gloves, non-flammable hat if you like your hair and a suitable location. Ventilation is key, welding makes nasty fumes and all that grinding can start a fire real quick. So be careful!
Step 2: Pre-sanding and Bending
- I started by removing the mirror with its swivel base from the extending base. It just un-screws. If you have bought this new, it is all ready off in the flat-pack and your good to go!
- Next I took my piece of metal rod and sanded it by hand with some sand paper till shiny smooth. If yours is nasty rough, rusted or painted then grind it smooth with a grinding wheel or flap-disk.
- Your bar probably doesn't have a bend in it all ready like mine did, so this is what you will need to do. Insert about 2 1/2 inches into the clamp, tighten and bend it down hard and quick. the actual curved bend will use about 1/2" of length making your first intended section 3" long.
- Next move the rod in the bench clamp as shown in the pictures below so that at least 3 1/2" is in the clamp. Tighten it up and grab hold, bend it down quick again. This bend will also use up about 1/2" of length. Trim the long piece down to about 5 1/4 inches.
Step 3: Welding on a Fender Washer
- Now grab your fender washer, if you are lucky like I was the hole was 3/8" all ready, same diameter as my rod. If you are not so lucky, throw it in a clamp and drill it to receive the 3/8 rod!
- Next sand the washer till it is all shiny. Mine had that black protective coating on it.
- Slip it over the long section of the rod just shy of the end by about 3/4 of an inch. the toilet paper end should have a minimum of 4 inches.
- Once in place, your ready to weld. Just make sure to weld it on the side that faces the toilet paper. God forbid you weld kinda sketchy like, the toilet paper will cover it up.
- Now tack weld it in place. You can weld all the way around the rod, or just use 3 simple tack welds. I did this to minimize on the heat scoring on the other side. You can grind this off but it is tricky at such a tight corner. Grind down the weld till acceptable to you and any nasty slaggy bits that have stuck to your nice shiny washer or rod. For those inner corners a Dremel with drum bit works great!
Step 4: Welding on the Ball
- Put your bent rod in the clamp and center the tip on the ball as in the picture.
- Pressing the ball up against the rod, do a single tack weld.
- take a look and make sure it is centered. If not, break the weld and repeat.
- Now weld all the way around
- Grind it smooth
Step 5: Welding on the Base
- Insert the screw into the coupling nut, to keep out rogue slag bits!
- put the coupling nut into the bench clamp
- Either hold the rod yourself or safer-smarter clamp it to the work table.
- Put a large tack weld to hold it in place.
- Now weld every seam!
- Grind it smooth.
Step 6: Put It Together for a Test Run
- Screw the welded coupling nut on to the extension post.
- Screw it on to the wall, keeping mind how it moves and how far it can extend
- Slip a roll of toilet paper on and test it out!
- Nice huh, hey what about the SUGRU?
- Go to the last step
Step 7: Complete, With a SUGRU Twist
- Take a small wad of SUGRU out, about the size of a 1" ball
- Flatten it smooth.
- Wrap just the ball end in the SUGRU. Pat it smooth, a thin layer is all that is needed.
- Allow to dry 24 hours
Technically, you don't not have to use the sugru, perhaps you want that seamless metal look. The black I used looks good, but with a splash of colorized silicone it would look awesome!
Hope you like it, make sure to vote for me in the instructable contests and rate me to let me know how I'm doing. Thanks!