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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recharging_alkaline_batteries
!!!!!! YOU RISK INJURY , EXPLOSION, FIRE OR OTHER DAMAGE!!!!!!!
and if you are lucky, the battery will self-discharge within a day, acting as a heat source...
There is something about the "don`t recharge" sign on the alcaline batteries...
http://www.slate.com/id/2184700/
What would probably be even better would be finding a way to make your diesel run off of old cooking oil and what not (after filtering), fairly inexpensive to do if I remember right. Plus most places have to pay to get rid of that old cooking oil, so they'd probably have no problem letting you snag a few gallons. I know it's pretty easy to do with older diesels, but would probably take some work to get a newer diesel to work. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on anything.
http://www.alexsingleton.co.uk/2007/04/the-everlasting-light-bulb/
"a hot cam, port the heads, install a fan clutch, put on higher-ratio rockers, reprogram your ECM, or put on a turbo."
None of these will actually increase fuel efficiency. An engine is an extremely dynamic air pump. The term "hot" in reference to a cam typically points out higher life/more duration which will increase the volumetric efficiency of the engine at higher RPMs to make more horsepower. This is probably the best way to decrease your fuel efficiency. Higher ratio rockers will achieve the same effect. Porting the heads is a bit more complex, but once again you're changing the area in the load/powerband curves that the engine operates most effectively and most back yard porters will be a long shot away from improving efficiency over an entire OEM laboratory's years of work and data optimizing port and chamber design. Turbocharging your car is guaranteed NOT to improve fuel mileage; it's physically impossible. The way that OEMs increase fuel mileage through turbocharging is by simultaneously downsizing engine's displacement or being more conservative with cam/head/intake design. ECM reprogramming may improve fuel mileage, but often times you sacrifice reliability or other emissions which should be strictly reserved for offroad use. You're incorrect about lower octane gas as well. Lower octane gas burns faster than higher octane gas (higher octane is less prone to detonation). This has absolutely NOTHING to do with power while cruising at highway speeds where a car will typically use less than 20 horsepower. This comes into play under heavy load and acceleration where higher cylinder pressures may cause the mixture to detonate if a lower grade of gasoline is used. As far as whether a lower grade will help or hurt fuel mileage I'll reserve from commenting on that since I'd imagine it to be quite specific to the combustion chamber/piston design for each individual vehicle.
The basics of improving gas mileage are using a free flowing air intake with reusable cotton filter, free flowing exhaust (which will usually change the note of the exhaust and the volume of it), a good tune-up, and properly inflated tires (keep in mind that the tire manufacturers recommend certain pressures for certain vehicle weights)
Tony
Here's my 3 cents worth about one of the topics:
I learned many things in over a decade in industrial construction. One of those was NEVER drink concentrated juices. I spent a fair amount of time in food processing plants. Quite a few of them were juice plants in Florida (different producers). If you are going to buy your juices make sure that they are "fresh squeezed". I'm not going into details. Research for yourselves. That USDA stamp of approval doesn't mean a lot to me anymore. Those who work for the USDA are the same disgruntled underpaid lazy government employees who work at the DMV. Think about THEIR efficiency. And by the way. If you wanted to buy American juice, you'd be hard pressed to find it. All of the producers co-package, store and use concentrate from other companies. Many of them from Brazil. Sorry so long.