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Step 10: Camera bay cover

The camera bay is covered by a piece of plastic cut from a 1-liter soda bottle. It is taped in place with clear tape once the camera is turned on and placed in the bay in preparation for flight. 

I'm excited to get some great shots with it. Watch out neighbors!
Here is my first video from this rocket... probably more to follow. Thanks for taking a look!<br> <br> <div class="media_embed"> <iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hB-UqE1aeqw" width="480"></iframe></div>
<p>Great build. Would love to do something like this but sadly I Don't have the resources</p>
<p>Seamster, I just wanted to say thank you. My 7 year old daughter designed a high powered rocket, and incorporated a GoPro bay (and room for a rubber duck named &quot;The Quackstronaut&quot;) based on your build. We've done a full fiberglass build, and it should go Mach 1.1 and about 6000 feet with a J motor. I have a full build thread here:</p><p><a href="http://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?129447-quot-Flying-MooMoo-quot-Scratch-Build-Thread" rel="nofollow">http://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?129447...</a></p><p>Your GoPro rocket was a big part of the inspiration for this, so thank you!</p>
<p>Whoa, nice!!</p><p>I enjoyed looking through that thread, that is a very impressive build. Glad my little rocket inspired you! </p>
<p>My daughter's rocket finally flew... but the parachute didn't open so she landed hard:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SUy63T3hT6w" width="500"></iframe></p><p>The fin repair was easier than expected, and next month she'll stretch her legs with a bigger motor.</p>
<p>Ah, that's a bummer about the crash, but nice that the damage was so minimal. </p><p>Here's to a perfect flight next time! :)</p>
<p>Seamster, thanks again. Last Saturday our club had another launch, and we put the rocket up on a CTI 220-H160 Skidmark motor. It was a perfect flight, so next month we'll put a tracker in the nose, use an even bigger motor and see if we can break Mach 1 with it. Here's the video:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YeWO_SQILiA" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Very cool! Thanks for sharing the video of the launch. It looked like a great flight.</p><p>I just picked up a little electronic altimeter for a few rocketry projects I'm working. I'm pretty excited to use it!</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I am building this for my students can u please tell me the approx cost of the total construction without the Go pro ?</p>
<p>That's a tricky question, and the answer depends on what you have available. My total cost of materials that went into the finished rocket was probably only a few dollars.</p><p><em>However</em>, the bits of foam for the nosecone came from a $30 sheet of insulation foam. The craft paper that made the tube came from a $20 roll of craft paper. And on and on $$$. </p><p>So doing this completely from scratch would definitely add up. </p><p>I would highly recommend starting with an existing rocket kit and modifying it to hold a camera, perhaps completely externally to simplify things. (That's actually something I've been wanting to do and write an instructable on, but it's still a ways down on my to-do list.)</p><p>Whatever you decide to do, good luck!! :)</p>
<p>thanks for your reply but to be honest my students have seen this and loved it and they want to do it so i have no choice.</p><p>Any instructions i should know about that is not listed?</p><p>This is my first time so i am following the exact instructions listed</p>
<p>I cannot add any more details than what I shared initially, as I posted this several years ago and the project is no longer fresh in my mind. </p><p>I can say, however, that I would strongly advise not taking this project on if you are new to model rocketry. </p><p>This was very much an advanced and experimental design, and a beginner will more likely have success in emulating a much simpler rocket design. </p>
<p>If you wish this is my skype id : jad.a.daniel</p>
You haven't put any weight in the nose? How does it look for stability?
Good question. Stability was pretty good. I did a balance test with all the motors, parachute, and camera in place by hanging the rocket from a string at it's center of gravity, which turned out to the about 8 inches above the the tops of the fins. This felt a little too far forward, but I did a stability test by swinging the rocket around and around and it went nose-forward and appeared very stable. So I didn't need to add any nose weight before the launch. <br> <br>I was worried that the slightly off-center loading of the camera might cause the rocket to fly sideways, and in the flight on the video I was initially sure this is what was going on. But upon retrieving the rocket and finding one motor had failed to ignite, and based on its location to the starting position of the rocket, it seemed obvious that the failed motor was the cause of the crooked flight. I guess I can't completely rule out that the camera contributed to the not-so-straight flight, but another flight with all three motors firing will hopefully prove to me that the camera weight is dispersed appropriately. (I'm pretty sure it is, so I'm excited for a nice, straight HIGH flight next time!) <br> <br>That's a long-winded response! Sorry. Figured I'd answer the stability question in detail because it's something I really put a lot of thought into before and after the launch. Thanks for posting the question!
How high did it go? Do you use an altimeter or just light 'er off? <br> <br>Just a note, you can never have the center of gravity too far forward. I'd recommend moving it up to right around the camera. <br> <br>Based on my experience, I'd also recommend getting some engines with a faster burn time, preferably less than a second, perhaps around 0.75 or 0.8 seconds. The higher impulse will get your rocket moving faster off the pad and it will be less affected by wind, making it fly straighter and higher. More of your thrust will be used in getting the rocket upwards, rather than sideways if an errant gust pushes the rocket over. Also the faster burn time might be enough for the rocket to complete the burn before you leave the rail, thus not affecting the flight angle. You'd need a decent size launch rail/rod, but It might be doable. <br> <br>Personally I go with Aerotech engines because they are pack a bigger punch for cheaper (A G80 for $18!) and they come in a wider variety of higher power engines which is what I'm usually building. (I have yet to fly anything on less than an E) <br> <br>Great job making your nose cone! I usually buy mine so that I can store instrumentation in them more easily, your method is absolutely fantastic and I will have to use it for my FTC water rocket. <br> <br>Update us when you get all three engines to ignite! You should have some amazing shots. <br> <br>
<p>Your note about center of gravity is incorrect. If the Cg is significantly forward of the Center of Pressure you end up with an overstable rocket. If you fly an overstable rocket in any kind of wind it will weathercock, potentially even going sideways instead of up. Ideally you want your Cg ahead of your Cp by between 1 and 5 calibers (i.e. between 1 and 5 times the diameter of your airframe).</p>
I've cast some nosecones hollow. See my -ible &quot;30 rockets for $5&quot; I don't know if that technique would be strong enough at this scale, but that would give room for instruments. <br> <br>I may also have to do an ible on howto make transparent nosecones.
What I actually have done in the past when my rocket lost a parachute and a nose cone (long story involving a tree over a river behind a fence) is build the parachute out of the bottom of a 13 gallon garbage bag, a square 24&quot; parachute with 4 straws for stiffeners and the nose cone out of construction paper and an index card. It's actually quite simple. You fold a tiny bit going the long way over and then just keep wrapping the paper around that. To tighten it there is a little flap that sticks out, so just move it inwards, and to loosen it just let it go. loosen/tighten it until it fits snugly in the rocket and tape it closed. Then put a piece of tape in the rocket that's folded over onto itself to stop the nose cone from pushing itself in during flight. Next, do the same thing with the index card so that it fits nicely over the main nose cone. This decreases the size of the hole in the nose cone greatly and tape it on to the main nose cone. what you now have is a nose cone that cost you 5 cents to make, and has a replaceable tip if you don't feel like attaching it to the body of the rocket so that it comes down slowly. I've tried it. It works.
I'd recommend against Aerotech motors for clustering -- it's too hard to get more than one to ignite at the same time. Even when the igniters work correctly, the motors sometimes sputter and smoke for as much as several seconds before coming up to thrust. If this happens in a cluster, you'll get all sorts of unhappy things. <br> <br>What I'd suggest instead is using a single Aerotech F40 motor (it'll be barely less total impulse, and significantly more thrust than the three Estes E11 motors, which aren't anything like a full E impulse -- barely above a D, in fact), and if you have a slow start, all that will happen is the rocket sitting on the pad until the motor comes up to thrust. <br> <br>That F40 will cost about the same as a three-pack of Estes E motors, and igniting a single motor will be more reliable than three of even the easy-lighting Estes motors -- plus, you'll get a stronger and more stable launch with the higher thrust.
I agree about the clustering. I didn't specify, but all of my rockets have been single engine aerotech vehicles and I think the only problem I ever had was a bad ignitor. Even a three-year-old engine that hand't been properly stored still ignited magnificently.
I miss-typed the center of gravity bit up there, I meant &quot;too far back&quot;.. I do know that much, but thank you for pointing it out:)<br> <br> I think Aerotechs are actually made really close to where I live, so I'll have to give them a closer look.<br> <br> Regarding altitude, I was set up to do the streamer-drop method, although it's not very accurate and there are almost too many variable for it to go off with out a hitch. (<a href="http://www.hobbizine.com/rocketaltitude.html" rel="nofollow">Here's one link to that idea.</a>)<br> <br> Thanks for your helpful comments. Hopefully I'll get another launch off soon!
<p>Is it necessary to have 3 engines? Will it fly with 1?</p>
<p>There are higher-power motors available, so you could use just one in that case. They run $10-ish each, which is a lot, but about the same as three smaller motors. I have seen some videos on YouTube on how to make your own motors, though.</p>
<p>It might fly on only one, but it wouldn't go very high. This was a pretty heavy model rocket. </p><p>I could have bumped up to a higher level rocket motor, but I used what I had for this. :)</p>
<p>ok then I will us 3. Thx for the fast reply!</p>
<p>Are you planning to build a rocket like this? That's cool!</p><p>If at all possible (especially if you're new to model rocketry), I'd highly recommend building a lighter rocket and going with a single engine. You'll have a higher chance of success. Just a thought. Good luck! </p>
<p>this is my first scratch build </p>
<p>Hey! </p><p>Can you suggest me any other ways to make the nose cones? perhaps by using Balsa wood?</p>
<p>I made nose cones for scratch-built rockets by gluing a wood dowel into a block of balsa, then putting the dowel into a power drill, which I held in place with a bench vise. Then I used an car exhaust clamp to hold the drill's trigger down and shaped the nose cone with sandpaper. Basically, it was a makeshift lathe, but balsa is too soft to use a chisel on, hence the sandpaper. Wear a dust mask if you do this.</p>
<p>http://youtu.be/FhM9toatsjY</p>
<p>Excellent project! I may probably never be able to build such a rocket myself, but still, you project has inspired me. All the best for the future!</p>
What did you use to make the nose cone template
<p>Hi Preston, </p><p>For the template, I just drew out a shape that looked "nose-cone-ish". That's probably not a lot of help, though! ;)</p><p>To draw a template, start with a rectangle where the distance across the shorter side matches the outside diameter of your rocket body. Then draw a curved shape that you like on one side of the rectangle. That's all I did. Hope that makes sense! </p>
How did you make the nose cone template
<p>ok i've made the first tube with six layers but they have dried while still on the mailing tube, i made sure to not glue or tape the first layer on the tube and it was pretty easy to slide off but after putting the other five layers on I cant seem to get it off, this is my second attempt at doing this please help</p>
<p>Hmm. You may need to just carefully cut that off and start over. The layers immediately begin to shrink as the glue dries, so it's really important to remove the new tube right after you make it and have it dry <em>off</em> of the forming tube.</p>
<p>how long did it take you from start to finish </p>
<p>I really don't remember, but I'm guessing about 10 hours total.</p>
<p>And Where did you get most of your supplies </p>
<p>I occasionally buy rocket supplies from this place: <a href="http://www.apogeerockets.com/" target="_blank">http://www.apogeerockets.com/</a></p>
<p>Did you use spray paint or just use regular paint</p>
<p>I used spray paint for this. See step 9 for details. </p>
<p>About how wide are the fins and also how did you connect the nose to the rocket? Thanks!</p>
<p>Hi!</p><p>The fins were about 5 inches wide, from the body of the rocket to outside edge of the fins. The leading edge of the fins were about 6 inches long.</p><p>The nose cone sits inside the top part of the body tube.. See step 7, photo 2. You can see a bit of a lip where the cone gets wider, so it can't slip into the tube past that lip.</p><p>Hope that helps! Are you making a homemade model rocket?</p>
Wow thx for such a fast reply! Yes I'm building a homemade rocket. <br> How do you connect the parachute to the rocket?
<p>There is a "shock cord" (for this rocket, I believe I used a piece of 1/4 sewing elastic that was about 3 feet long) that is tied to the bottom of the nose cone, and glued into the body tube. The parachute is tied to this cord about 3/4 the way up from the body tube.</p><p>If you're new to basic model rocketry, there's loads of info online to help you out . . . I don't want to deter your effort of course, but you might want to start by building a couple of kit rockets first! :)</p><p>Here's a <a href="" target="_blank">classic rocket kit </a>available on amazon. Starting with a basic kit like this one will teach you a lot, so when you do jump to building your own rocket from scratch you'll have the skills you need. </p>
<p>I have a lot of model rocket kits but not on this scale and have never done a scratch build. Thanks once again! </p>
<p>If the link isn't working, here it is again: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Estes-1948-Bertha-Flying-Rocket/dp/B0006NAMUO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1424901026&sr=8-8&keywords=model+rocketry+kit" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Estes-1948-Bertha-Flying-Rocket/dp/B0006NAMUO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1424901026&sr=8-8&keywords=model+rocketry+kit</a></p>
Really very nice!! :)

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