Introduction: Gold Zapper Lamp (Akin to Philippe Starcks Lamps)

Picture of Gold Zapper Lamp (Akin to Philippe Starcks Lamps)

This is how I built a gold zapper table lamp similar to Philippe Starck's gold gun lamp.  I made things hard on myself by wanting the zapper trigger be the switch for the light.  If you don't want the trigger to be the switch life is much easier on this build.
I tried to keep the proportions and as details as similar to Philippe's as I could.

Tools/Materials I used:
Screw drivers
Dremel
Grinder (only if you want the trigger to act as the light switch)
2 part epoxy
Epoxy putty
Paint
Sandpaper
Plastic putty
Nintendo Zapper
Hardware is on the next page

Step 1: Hardware

Picture of Hardware

A quick look at the lamp hardware I used.
*Lamp basics like an 18" threaded rod for lamp making and bolts to match.
*For the lamp socket I used a phenolic socket threaded with shoulder. I ended up sanding down most of the plastic bolt edge so it would fit between the harp.
*To mount the harp I used a metal ring for a porcelain socket. I did have to grind out the opening about 1/8 of an inch to get it to fit.  It was ugly but it will never be seen.
*You will need a 'push button on off switch. NOT a momentary switch. I used the 'SPST PUSHBUTTON, PUSH ON/PUSH OFF' at allelectronics.com and it fits very well.
*Simple round base. This one is brass and is 7 inches in diameter.
*Base weight. Usually heavier is better. Just make sure it fits in the base.
*I used cloth covered wires because Philippe does and it looks way cooler. Any cord will do though.
*Black lamp shade. This one is gold on the inside as well. It measures 5x10x8

Step 2: Ducks Be Damned! Take Apart That Old Zapper

Picture of Ducks Be Damned! Take Apart That Old Zapper


This is simple just locate the screws and start unscrewing.  Keep track of everything, you will need most of it.
Once its open all you need is the gray box that has the trigger housing inside.
And once you have the gray trigger housing open you need to remove the switch itself, keep everything else.  Removing the switch will remove all the wires. Be careful, some of the parts are spring loaded and will jump out.
Put the trigger mechanism back together and set it aside for a little bit.

Step 3: Time to Start Cutting

Picture of Time to Start Cutting

You will want the threaded rod to run straight from the "barrel" opening out through the back. Take some time to measure and mark and lay it out straight.  You will want the groove to be as snug as possible but some movement is ok and probable helpful. It will all be pinned down later with screws and some epoxy putty.
Once you have the path you like start cutting. I used a Dremel and it worked very well.
Don't forget to do the other half. Test the fit by closing the rod in the gun.
You will also need a plastic spacer for the top and bottom. You can find it an any large home improvement store in the specialty hardware drawers. The one on the top (1inch long) just sits between a bolt and the lamp socket and is only meant to cover the threaded rod so it is not seen(image in step 5).  The bottom one (1/2 inch long) will butt up against the thin bolt (mentioned down in the 3rd image) and will cover the rod but also acts as a spacer for the secondary plastic shield part of the gun. But more importantly this is what will mount flush to the base and will be under compression from the screws mounting the gun to the base.
You will need to cut out room for the bottom spacer just like with the rod.

Step 4: Mod the Trigger Mechanism

Picture of Mod the Trigger Mechanism

Now that the rod can be put in place the trigger housing wont fit. Trim the top part off.  I was able to leave the screw hole in the front. if you cant I don't think it will be a problem.

*NOTE*
If you will not be using the trigger as the switch for the light proceed to the next step.
If you like to make things difficult and want the trigger to be the switch keep reading.

*All through this process I would check to make sure the switch works and is working with the trigger*
Inside the trigger housing is a white 'piston'.  This is what will push the switch. 
Remove the white 'piston' (don't lose the spring) and place the switch.  Its a little to fat so parts of the gray will need to be trimmed. I left the rear mounting screw hole for stability.
Once the switch fits glue it in. I used 2 part epoxy.  Don't get any on the button part though.
After the glue has cured mark the white piston and cut it to length so it will fit in place with the switch and engage the switch when the trigger is pressed.
I noticed that with this switch the slightest pressure on it would engage and it wouldn't act right so I had to trim the white piston back some so it didn't touch it at all till the trigger get pushed.
Once everything is glued and trimmed put it all back together.
I then drilled holes underneath the front screw mount that I saved earlier and fed the wires out front.
I would also test again that the switch does work with the trigger and everything is happy. It is easy to fix now. Later it will be much more difficult if not impossible.

Step 5: Cram It All In

Picture of Cram It All In

*NOTE*
If you chose to have the trigger control the switch you will need to cut out a notch in the threaded rod so the wires can all be connected. I did this with a grinder.

Before you put everything together cut the threaded rod to length.

*NOTE AGAIN*
If your plug is molded to the wire (mine was) when you wire it all up you will need to make sure that everything has been threaded through.  I my case the wire went first through the side hole in the base.  Then through the mounting bolt and washer. Then the base weight. Then the base top hole. Then the wire can be pushed up through the threaded rod.

Cram everything in.  This will be easy if you don't have the trigger activate the switch.
There may be better wire connection methods. I chose those because they shouldn't come apart by accident.

Step 6: Putty, Sand, Prime, Putty, Sand, Prime...

Picture of Putty, Sand, Prime, Putty, Sand, Prime...

Just do what the title says.  I was trying to make it seamless.  I got pretty close and ended up priming it maybe 3 or 4 times. I started with 120 grit and worked my way up to 600 grit paper. Don't forget to sand and prime the base as well.
Once you get it where you are happy with it paint it gold.  There are a couple different gold spray paint brands.  I couldn't find a big difference between them.
Put the gold on in thin layers and do multiple coats.

Step 7: Lettering

Picture of Lettering

Philippe's has the words 'HAPPINESS IS A HOT GUN' on the front of the base.
I used rub on letters and altered the phrase a little bit.

If your interested in this I hope this helps you out.

Comments

johan.nihlgrand (author)2014-08-27

I cannot find the spst switch here in Sweden, what do i do? =/

SantaB (author)2013-07-05

I really like the idea of the trigger mod, but I tried it... and blew out the electrical socket in my kitchen. I used this button... SPST 3-Amp "Soft-Feel" Push On-Push Off Switch
Model: 275-1565 from Radioshack. I tried both the way you wired yours and wiring directly to the socket. When wiring directly to the socket it blew one of my solders, blowing one of the wires off of the switch. The next time I tried it the way you wired yours and it blew the socket.

Any thoughts as to why this didn't work?

bryandhispup (author)2010-12-14

What about running thepower cord out the old controller connection wire hole in the butt of the gun? then it may be more recognized as a Nintendo controller. Is this a possibility?

bigcak (author)bryandhispup2010-12-14

I would think so. Because of space limitation you may not be able to have the trigger work as the switch but I don't think there would be any problems with running the cord out of the original hole. You would still need to cut a hole in the threaded rod though.

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