It's just a pair of jumper cables and a welding rod.
Oh yeah. And some batteries to power it.
I happened to have some nice juicy batteries in the form of a Golf Cart.
Here's me welding a trailer hitch with 1/8" 6011 rods. Welding current peaks at around 140-150 amps with these rods and around 120 amps with 3/32 6013 rods according to a Fluke 1010 clamp probe.
Greatly inspired by South Africans battery-welding their landrovers.
More battery welders
Also check out this great homemade AC stick welder.
Oops! Almost forgot a warning. DON"T ELECTOCUTE, BURN, OR BLIND YOURSELF. DON'T BREATHE THE FUMES OR DETONATE YOUR BATTERIES.
That said, read the specs for your battery. Big ones are designed to produce enough current for welding. Don't let the nay-sayers keep you from trying it. Check your batteries and don't overheat them. Lead-acid batteries can go into a thermal-runaway self-discharge mode.
Action photos by Andrea, video by Pete Lynne.
Step 1: Cables and Rod
The jumper cables were $12 from Harbor Freight.
The strip of bicycle innertube is optional, to wrap the end of an alligator clip and make it grip harder.
If you're feeling fancy you can replace one of your alligator clips with an electrode holder.
This nice one was made in India and cost $7 from Harbor Freight.
The welding rods I tried are 3/32" 6013 and 1/8" 6011, 5lbs for $6 or so. Available in Africa, S.America, anywhere.
You'll also want to wear gloves,
and a welding helmet, $16 from Northern Tool
Step 2: Alligator Clip Orthodontics
Strengthen the alligator's jaw muscles with a wrapping of bicycle innertube strip.
Step 3: Batteries!
They're in series making 36 volts total. I can clip in anywhere in the chain to get 36,30,24, etc. volts.
The batteries have about 220 Amp-hours capacity, so that means I could weld at 150 amps for more than an hour (consult books printed on paper for the details) without recharging. Plenty good since I'll never have a project with enough metal laid out ahead of time to spend that much time a-welding in a day.
If your batteries aren't as nice as this, don't worry, you can do plenty of welding with three old car batteries in series.
I got these from the guy who made them?
That's right, a family run battery manufacturer right in Sausalito in a little workshop.
It's really amazing, like an old time blacksmith's shop, but high-tech. They can make any size battery.
Alrick, the proprietor, grew up making batteries and he really knows his stuff.
He sells batteries to all the big boats there, and he knows exactly how long every brand of battery lasts in every set of conditions.
Don't bother him about your electric car though, he's been plagued about that sort of thing enough already.
Arc battery company
90 gate 5 rd. sausalito ca 94965
415-332-3272
Step 4: Welding Tests
I used DC reverse-polarity at 36,30, and 24 volts.
I used 1/8" 6011 rod and 3/32" 6013 rod
Step 5: The Welds
I couldn't have stuck the rod to the plate if I wanted to.
These are the welds after chipping and brushing the slag off.
I did the right hand weld first with 1/8" 6011 rod at 36 Volts.
I've had the rods for a while and they're a bit damp and splattered a lot.
It's a deep good weld as you can see in the next photo of the backside of the plate, where it's melted through.
The mess at the top of the middle weld is trying a 6011 at 24 volts. Not enough juice, a lot of splattering. The full length bead next to it is a 6011 at 30 volts.
The left hand weld, the best looking one, is a 3/32" thick 6013 rod at 30 volts.
This golf cart is a good welder and I will definitely use it to weld projects in the future.
Step 6: Arc Stabilizer and Stinger
Zan and I made one from a transformer we scavenged from a dead microwave oven. We used this method to chop out the secondary and wind 20 turns of 10-guage wire, which is all that would fit.
We left the primary intact, it doesn't affect the function here. An inductor gives the current "momentum" to blast through bits of flux and rust that get in the way. The arc sputters a lot less, welding is easier, and the welds are better.
I got a great Indian-made stinger (electrode holder) for $6 from harborfreight and replaced one of the jumper cable clamps with that.
Then I welded some repairs on this very badly rusted boat trailer. Too pitted to grind clean very well. I used 1/8" 6011 rod at 36 volts and it was fabulous. I melted good deep welds into all that rusty metal. Very satisfying.
We've got a self-propelled welder!
Step 7: Cutting Steel with a Stick Welder
Ray and I used the golfcart welder with 1/8" 6011 rods to weld some beefy reinforcements on it.
The big toroidal series inductor seen here came from [www.accrc.org/ ACCRC] Maker Day. I should put a few dozen more turns on it to really smooth out the arc. We did some strong agricultural-style welding that isn't going to break or appear in textbooks.
Here's Ray cutting holes for the trailer safety chain to hook on.
We dipped the rods in water and then blasted and pushed the steel out of the way. It works well and makes a surprisingly clean hole while using less rod than you'd think.
Thanks to a reader who suggested dipping the rods in water- I can't find your comment now, what other nifty tricks do you have up your sleeve?
I also tried an improvised air-arc torch using compressed air. It didn't work at all. The air blast blew the arc away, chilled and froze the molten metal instead of burning it. I guess that's why air-arc cutting torches use 500 amps or more

















































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Golf carts use deep cycle batts already.
Just try not to overheat them nor recharge while still hot and everything should be fine.
All batteries eventually wear out.
Sometimes you can revive "dead" lead acids with a little epsom salt.
This make it possible you could "recycle" (more like reuse) discarded batteries you can get for free.
or a welder...
a farmer with about 10 old batters in the bed of a pickup had me back on the road before the engine in my truck got cold.. no charge thanks again mister rouse.
Note that any arc stabilizer is goint to cause a voltage surge when you break the arc and ( that's how it restarts a failed arc) and you may get a tingle in your fingers if you didn't do a good job insulating your connections
If you choose to use a rewound transformer for the inductor core make sure you remove or well insulate the unused windings becausethe welding current winding will act as a new primary for the transformer and induce a current in any other windings that remain. you could easily produce hundreds of volts in short bursts as you drag the stick.
please be careful with your sparks, I have been around an exploding car battery and it wasn't much fun
My car model came with two braking versions. One was the standard. The other was the Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS.)
They both meet the minimum safety standards set up by the federal government at that time. However, the ABS systems well exceeded the minimum braking safety standard. Get the point?
I don't care for your tone. I'm not going to explain to you why one lived longer than another. To be honest, I don't know why one "held up a lot longer." Besides, what does it mean to "held up a lot longer?" I don't know and I don't much care
Have fun inhaling fumes and burning your retinas out.
Penny wise, pound foolish.
Similes, Metaphors and analogies are the basis of languages (and before comp sci guys get spun out of control, compilers also use oodles of the above.) They allow us to relate ideas that apply from one concept to another.
There is a mental "leap" (well, more like a "hop") that allows a person to understand how things are associated. It is the hallmark of learning, both in basic association and higher cognitive learning.
***
I'm not sure how to make it much simpler. There is the basic safety standard in which a product must meet certain attributes for reliability, durability and failure rates.
Products can exceed those basic safety standards if the producing company views it as profitable (among other considerations.)
***
If you still find this confusing, good luck. Talk with a welding instructor and ask him/her to explain the differences between helmets and why the are desirable.
Here's my point, in a nutshell. The little green tinted piece of glass in a $16 welding hood works exactly the same as the little green tinted piece of glass in my $30 hood. The only difference is the little piece of glass in my $30 hood is bigger.
Also, please keep in mind the effect advertising plays on the cost of products. The cheaper welding masks like you get at Northern do not have ads in trade magazines.
Cheaper (but minimally rated) filters allow some fraction that over time may be detrimental. Static is static, higher rating means dimmer view. The cheaper auto-flip might work fractions of a second slower (or decay faster?) Again, an accumulated effect over time.
Let's start a new tab for the cost of protecting the human doing the work.
This is different from an arc welder - it's DC, which is good for steel.
The helmet is perfectly fine.
The coil acts as a half of a transformer or an electromagnet.
DC current flowing through creates an magnetic field.
When the arc stops so does the current and the field collapses, but in so doing it induces current in the coil in the same direction like a magnet passing over a generator coil but only for a very brief time.
This effect will help keep the arc going or kick-start a broken arc.
A good analogy would be that it's like the momentum a flywheel gives to an engine between the power strokes.