It's just a pair of jumper cables and a welding rod.
Oh yeah. And some batteries to power it.
I happened to have some nice juicy batteries in the form of a Golf Cart.
Here's me welding a trailer hitch with 1/8" 6011 rods. Welding current peaks at around 140-150 amps with these rods and around 120 amps with 3/32 6013 rods according to a Fluke 1010 clamp probe.
Greatly inspired by South Africans battery-welding their landrovers.
More battery welders
Also check out this great homemade AC stick welder.
Oops! Almost forgot a warning. DON"T ELECTOCUTE, BURN, OR BLIND YOURSELF. DON'T BREATHE THE FUMES OR DETONATE YOUR BATTERIES.
That said, read the specs for your battery. Big ones are designed to produce enough current for welding. Don't let the nay-sayers keep you from trying it. Check your batteries and don't overheat them. Lead-acid batteries can go into a thermal-runaway self-discharge mode.
Action photos by Andrea, video by Pete Lynne.
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Signing UpStep 1: Cables and Rod
The jumper cables were $12 from Harbor Freight.
The strip of bicycle innertube is optional, to wrap the end of an alligator clip and make it grip harder.
If you're feeling fancy you can replace one of your alligator clips with an electrode holder.
This nice one was made in India and cost $7 from Harbor Freight.
The welding rods I tried are 3/32" 6013 and 1/8" 6011, 5lbs for $6 or so. Available in Africa, S.America, anywhere.
You'll also want to wear gloves,
and a welding helmet, $16 from Northern Tool











































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Golf carts use deep cycle batts already.
Just try not to overheat them nor recharge while still hot and everything should be fine.
All batteries eventually wear out.
Sometimes you can revive "dead" lead acids with a little epsom salt.
This make it possible you could "recycle" (more like reuse) discarded batteries you can get for free.
or a welder...
a farmer with about 10 old batters in the bed of a pickup had me back on the road before the engine in my truck got cold.. no charge thanks again mister rouse.
Note that any arc stabilizer is goint to cause a voltage surge when you break the arc and ( that's how it restarts a failed arc) and you may get a tingle in your fingers if you didn't do a good job insulating your connections
If you choose to use a rewound transformer for the inductor core make sure you remove or well insulate the unused windings becausethe welding current winding will act as a new primary for the transformer and induce a current in any other windings that remain. you could easily produce hundreds of volts in short bursts as you drag the stick.
please be careful with your sparks, I have been around an exploding car battery and it wasn't much fun
My car model came with two braking versions. One was the standard. The other was the Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS.)
They both meet the minimum safety standards set up by the federal government at that time. However, the ABS systems well exceeded the minimum braking safety standard. Get the point?
I don't care for your tone. I'm not going to explain to you why one lived longer than another. To be honest, I don't know why one "held up a lot longer." Besides, what does it mean to "held up a lot longer?" I don't know and I don't much care
Have fun inhaling fumes and burning your retinas out.
Penny wise, pound foolish.
Similes, Metaphors and analogies are the basis of languages (and before comp sci guys get spun out of control, compilers also use oodles of the above.) They allow us to relate ideas that apply from one concept to another.
There is a mental "leap" (well, more like a "hop") that allows a person to understand how things are associated. It is the hallmark of learning, both in basic association and higher cognitive learning.
***
I'm not sure how to make it much simpler. There is the basic safety standard in which a product must meet certain attributes for reliability, durability and failure rates.
Products can exceed those basic safety standards if the producing company views it as profitable (among other considerations.)
***
If you still find this confusing, good luck. Talk with a welding instructor and ask him/her to explain the differences between helmets and why the are desirable.
Here's my point, in a nutshell. The little green tinted piece of glass in a $16 welding hood works exactly the same as the little green tinted piece of glass in my $30 hood. The only difference is the little piece of glass in my $30 hood is bigger.
Also, please keep in mind the effect advertising plays on the cost of products. The cheaper welding masks like you get at Northern do not have ads in trade magazines.
Cheaper (but minimally rated) filters allow some fraction that over time may be detrimental. Static is static, higher rating means dimmer view. The cheaper auto-flip might work fractions of a second slower (or decay faster?) Again, an accumulated effect over time.
Let's start a new tab for the cost of protecting the human doing the work.
This is different from an arc welder - it's DC, which is good for steel.
The helmet is perfectly fine.
The coil acts as a half of a transformer or an electromagnet.
DC current flowing through creates an magnetic field.
When the arc stops so does the current and the field collapses, but in so doing it induces current in the coil in the same direction like a magnet passing over a generator coil but only for a very brief time.
This effect will help keep the arc going or kick-start a broken arc.
A good analogy would be that it's like the momentum a flywheel gives to an engine between the power strokes.