Step 1: What You Need
-Polymorph Plastic ($5.00)
-Microwave Safe Bowl (Already Had)
-Microwave (Already Had)
-Skin Illustrator FX Pallet ($55.00) (Or other paint)
-99% Isopropyl Alcohol ($5.00)
-Black and Brown Tooth Enamel ($6.99) (Or comparable paint)
-Transparent Nail Polish ($2.99)
-Liquid Latex ($10.00)
-2 Makeup Sponges ($1.00)
-Cotton Swabs ($1.00)
-Baby Powder ($2.99)
-Transparent Elmer's Glue ($2.99)
-Red and Blue Food Coloring ($3.99)
-Flat Surface You Don't Mind Getting Dirty (You Choose)
-Fork or other Utensil (Already Had)
-You're Favorite Horror Movie Playing in The Background! (Highly Recommend, I was watching the X-Files)
Step 2: Melt the Platic
Place a good bit of it in your microwave safe bowl
Fill it up with water so that all of the plastic is covered
Now your going to Nuke that sucker for about 1 minute. If the plastic is not completely transparent, Nuke it again for 10 seconds until it is all completely transparent.
Step 3: Mold Your Teeth
Shake the fork to remove some of the hot water from the surface of the plastic.
Now take the plastic and roll it between your hands to create a cylinder shape.
Once you have a roll about 3.5 inches long, press it against your teeth being sure to cover all of your little chompers. Press the plastic to every surface with your fingers in order to preserve ever detail of your mouth.
Once that is done wait a few minutes to let the plastic harden. It doesn't have to be completely solid, but make sure it is solid enough that it won't deform when you start handing it.
Step 4: Make the Jaw
Now take your remaining plastic (You may need to reheat it) and make another roll. This time you are still going to need about 3.5 inches, but you need to have a thicker diameter in order to build up the bone and tissue.
Take the roll, and starting at the center, press it into the mold. Then push the rest of the plastic into the mold moving from the center to the outside edges. Doing this will ensure that no air bubbles will remain ruining the final piece. Make sure there is a but hanging over the edge on the tips so it will be easier to demold.
Once you have the plastic in the mold, let it sit until it starts to harden. Make Sure You Keep An Eye On It! The plastic will start to droop. After a few seconds start to form the excess plastic to your desired shape. I formed mine to look like tissue and excess bone that had been cut away with a bone saw or other sharp object.
This is the tricky part. There is a fine point in which it is easiest to demold. You need it to be hard enough that it won't distort to much, but it needs to be pliable enough to be pulled out without the plastic stretching.
Step 5: Painting
I am going to be using the alcohol activated Skin Illustrator FX Pallet. It is a tad expensive, however if you are into SFX makeup, it is a must in your kit. Primarily, I will be using the ages blood color, but I will also be using a little but of the Fresh Blood color.
Start by adding the aged and fresh blood tone color to all the surfaces that aren't teeth. Your piece will now really start to pop. Take care when adding the color to the areas around the teeth, but if some color ends up getting onto a tooth, don't worry, it can be removed with a cotton swab with a little 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Now that all the "Tissue" is covered lets move onto the teeth. Take the white color from the palette and cover all the teeth.
Now take the brown (Nicotine) color and without being stingy, cover each tooth with a healthy layer of the enamel. Let it dry for only a few moments. Then take your second makeup sponge and dip it into some 99% isopropyl alcohol and whip away most of the enamel, leaving just a trace amount of it left in order to simulate staining on the surface of the tooth.
Now take the black enamel and paint a layer onto the molars and into the cracks between the teeth. Using the same method as before, us the sponge to wipe away most of the paint. Be sure to leave just a little left to simulate depth and shadows.
Once all the makeup/paint is dry, take your clear nail polish and add a layer to your entire piece. Let that layer dry, it will only take a few minutes. Add a second once the first is dry.
Congrats! Now you have a wet, nasty, gory jaw! Now we can take it a step further, and amp up the gore factor!
Step 6: Making Nurnies
In this instance we are going to use one to add a bit of torn flesh to the upper part of our piece.
First we need to make one. Start out by finding a smooth flat surface. Fill up a small container with a small amount of liquid latex. About two tablespoons should do the trick. Now take a makeup sponge and blot it onto the flat surface making a rectangle about 4 by 8 inches. Let the first layer dry and add 2 or 3 more layers. You can use a hair dryer to expedite this process.
Once they have dried, take your finger and rub against the edge so that it rolls up on itself. Do this all the way around the latex. Now rub holes of various sizes into the latex so that it looks almost like a spiders web.
Take a little baby powder and spread it on the too to prevent the latex from sticking to itself. Now peal the latex off the table.
Congrats you've now made a Nurnie!
Step 7: Attach the Nurnie
Take your Nurnie and press it to the latex making sure that it covers a large majority of the flesh to give it a more realistic look.
Take your latex sponge and add a few layers to the top of the Nurnie making sure that it makes a strong bond to your piece.
Allow some of Nurnie to remain free, allowing some of it to hang of the edges to create a little more gross look.
Now let it dry!
Step 8: Paint the Nurnie
Once that is done, take the the transparent nail polish and add a layer or two to the Nurnie. Allow that to dry.
Step 9: Making Drying Blood
Take a bottle of clear of Elmer's Glue. Add 3-4 drops of red food coloring and 1 drop of blue food coloring. Make sure it is only 1 drop, any more will make the blood way to dark. Unless you want it like that, then go for it I guess.
Now put on some "groovy" toons and start to shake, and shake, and shake some more. After what seems like an eternity you will have a beautiful bottle of drying blood that will remain to look wet even after it dries.
*Note: The only downfall of this method is that in larger amounts, it will take a little while to dry. Letting it sit over night should normally be more than enough.
Step 10: Add the Blood! (Duh)
Keep in mind, the more you add the longer it will take to dry.
Step 11: Now Do What Ever You Want With It!
Happy Halloween, and to quote Skully, "Stay Scary!"
(Bonus Points if you get the reference)