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Step 4The propeller needs a rear wheel
The wheel for the propeller must be a rear wheel, with a hub that's either threaded (left wheel in picture) or carrying a freehub (right wheel in picture). You will make a pulley wheel that mounts on the hub in either Step 21 or 22; it's easier with a freehub wheel.
In Step 24 you will mount the propeller wheel by clamping it to a GA2 metal angle bracket. Your wheel may have a hollow axle and a quick-release skewer, which makes it easy (Step 13). If not, you will need one extra axle nut for the propeller. This can be either a heavy nut intended for clamping onto a fork, or a cone locknut -- thinner, but strong enough. There are many incompatible axle threads, so take your wheel with you when you scrounge for axle nuts.
On the side opposite from the freehub or threaded hub, remove a spacer or "shift" the axle, if necessary, to give the axle enough length to hold the GA2 bracket and extra nut. You may have to pry out and discard a sleek-looking rubber cover that almost-seals the bearing and nuts. (It's okay; evapotrons operate for years this way.)
Most wheels have 36 spokes, and will accept 9 blades, each attached to a quartet of spokes. Most other wheels have 32 spokes, and accept 8 blades.
You can use a wheel with one or two spokes missing. When you reach Step 24, attaching blades to spokes, you'll find whether the missing spoke matters. If it's needed for a blade mounting point, cut a length of soft iron wire ("baling wire"). Bend or knot one end of the wire so it won't slip all the way through the spoke hole in the rim. Weave the other end past the crossing spokes and through the spoke hole in the hub, pull it taut and bend it over. Hard to believe, but it's sturdy enough to support a blade -- look at the picture in Step 26.
In Step 24 you will mount the propeller wheel by clamping it to a GA2 metal angle bracket. Your wheel may have a hollow axle and a quick-release skewer, which makes it easy (Step 13). If not, you will need one extra axle nut for the propeller. This can be either a heavy nut intended for clamping onto a fork, or a cone locknut -- thinner, but strong enough. There are many incompatible axle threads, so take your wheel with you when you scrounge for axle nuts.
On the side opposite from the freehub or threaded hub, remove a spacer or "shift" the axle, if necessary, to give the axle enough length to hold the GA2 bracket and extra nut. You may have to pry out and discard a sleek-looking rubber cover that almost-seals the bearing and nuts. (It's okay; evapotrons operate for years this way.)
Most wheels have 36 spokes, and will accept 9 blades, each attached to a quartet of spokes. Most other wheels have 32 spokes, and accept 8 blades.
You can use a wheel with one or two spokes missing. When you reach Step 24, attaching blades to spokes, you'll find whether the missing spoke matters. If it's needed for a blade mounting point, cut a length of soft iron wire ("baling wire"). Bend or knot one end of the wire so it won't slip all the way through the spoke hole in the rim. Weave the other end past the crossing spokes and through the spoke hole in the hub, pull it taut and bend it over. Hard to believe, but it's sturdy enough to support a blade -- look at the picture in Step 26.
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