Step 1: What You'll Need
1 inch PT CDX plywood half sheet
2 lbs 3 inch deck screws
2 lbs 2 inch deck screws
Pocket hole jig (optional)
Drill & bits
Assorted woodworking paraphernalia (clamps, cords, etc)
Most of this stuff I had laying around, the wood came from disassembled garden boxes from our previous residence, so I can not give an accurate board footage used. Fasteners should be chosen for compatibility with PT lumber.
Step 2: Let's Start
From these 2x3s we cut;
2 24 inch pieces
2 32 inch pieces
4 30 inch pieces with one end of each beveled at 22.5 degrees. (uprights)
2 44 inch pieces with one long edge of each cut at a 22.5 degree angle and the ends snipped at 45 degrees. (stringers)
2 44 inch pieces
I want to add that proper precautions should be taken when working with PT lumber, use a dust mask when sawing, and wash your hands before eating and drinking.
Step 3: Framing
Build the frame by laying out the four 30 inch uprights in pairs, on edge, and securing the pairs together with the 24 inch pieces placed 4 inches up from the bottom (square end), the bevels on the uprights should appear as in the picture. Be sure to check for squareness.
Now join these two end pieces together with the 32 inch pieces placed on the inside of the frame. That is our basic structure.
Step 4: Roof Support
To build the roof support, the 44 inch long beveled stringers are attached on center with the bevels of the uprights on the outside. If we stopped here all the weight would be supported by 12 screws, bad idea. The two additional 44 inch long pieces we cut are attached on top of the stringers and uprights, creating an L beam that transfers the load to the uprights. At this point I placed a scrap of wood across and sat on it to test the strength, everything was okey dokey.
Step 5: The Roof
Start by cutting four rafter pieces 21 inches long with a 22.5 degree cross cut at one end of each.
Also cut a ridge piece 44 inches long from a 2x6
Attach the rafters to either end of the ridge piece with pocket screws, alternately toe nailing is an option.
Place the roof on top of the house frame and square everything up and screw through the L beams into the rafters to attach the roof. The edges of the roof are cut from 2x6s to fit (approx 41 inches long.)
We will come back to the roof in a bit.
Step 6: The Decking
Step 7: Back to the Roof
Back to the saw; using the panel measurements, cut some 2x2 inch battens to hold the panel in place, the batten for the top must be beveled to match the roof pitch.
Using these battens fix the panel to the roof frame, I attached the battens to the plywood with screws and construction adhesive, but used only screws to attach it to the roof structure to allow eventual replacement if needed. If you wish additional waterproofing of the plywood can be done now, I brushed on a coat of water seal because this plywood had already spent the three years since the hurricanes sitting behind my shed.
For drainage we'll drill a couple of 2 inch holes along the bottom edge of the panel and fix nylon screening over. Along the top ridge, for the comfort of the dogs, caulk was used to seal the cracks to prevent dripping.
Step 8: The Soil
Step 9: Planting and Watering
My plant list
One plant I did not use but I think would work all alone to lovely effect in the proper climate wold be perennial peanut.
Because of the pitch of the roof watering must be done with care until the roots tie the soil together, use a fine rose watering can or, if using irrigation, micro sprays, and water the plants until established, 1-2 months. After this period, if irrigation is ended then the population dynamics will change and the less drought hardy plants will succumb and be replaced by the tougher plants. The choice is entirely yours.
Hope you enjoyed the project.