Groovy Folding Garden Table





Introduction: Groovy Folding Garden Table

Entertain in style with this groovy garden table. We used pine to make our table and then finished it off with exterior sealer. The groove design adds an decorative touch to the table and is not something you can buy in a store.

Step 1: You Will Need:

6 of 140 x 1200mm pine – table planks
2 of 44 x 1160mm pine – apron, long sides
2 of 44 x 800mm pine – apron, short sides
3 of 140 x 800mm pine – top supports
4 of 44 x 44 x 730mm pine – legs
2 of 44 x 610mm PAR pine – narrow side, cross beams
2 of 44 x 720mm PAR pine – wide side, cross beams
4 steel angle brackets, small
4 drop-down/flap hinges
16mm wood screws
4.5 x 65mm wood screws
3.5 x 3.5mm wood screws
Exterior wood sealer and stain
Drill/Driver plus assorted bits
Countersink bit
Tape measure and pencil
Carpenter’s square
Jigsaw and clean-cut blade

Step 2: Preparation

Take the time to sand smooth any rough edges before assembly.
Always apply wood glue to add joints.

Step 3: Cut the Groovy Top Planks

On each of the planks for the top draw a wavy line and then cut out with a jigsaw.

I found it easier to cut one and then use this as a template to cut out the rest of the planks.

Sand the cut edges smooth with 180-grit sandpaper.

Step 4: Stain and First Coat Sealer

Now is the best time to apply stain and sealer to the planks – before assembling the project.
If you leave until later, you will find it very difficult to stain and seal the gaps between the top planks.

Step 5: Assemble Top Frame

While waiting for the sealer to dry you can start assembling the top frame.
To make the frame to support the top planks, attach the short sides to the long sides with steel angle braces and 16mm screws.

Corner clamps come in very handy when you are working on your own - it's like having an extra pair of hands to help you.

Step 6: Attach Top Supports

Working on a flat, level surface, place the top supports within the frame; one at the ends and one in the centre.
Leave a 20mm gaps between the support frame and the apron.

Pre-drill a 3mm pilot hole on the outside of the frame; countersink before attaching the frame to the top supports with 4.5 x 65mm screws.

Step 7: Attach Top Planks to Frame

Place the assembled frame on top of the wavy planks.
Make sure to leave an equal spacing all the way around.
Use 3mm scraps as spacers to hold the top planks apart.

Use 3.5 x 35mm screws through the top supports to hold the top planks in place.
Make sure to drive a screw all the way along the length and width to firmly secure the top to the supports.

Drive a screw through each and every section along the top supports.
You can see that quite a lot of screws were used, but this ensures a firm table.

On the finished top no screws are visible since everything was fastened underneath.

Step 8: Assemble the Legs

Measure down and mark at 200mm from the top of each leg.
Drill 3mm pilot holes, countersink and drive 4.5 x 65mm wood screws through until the tip of the screw shows. Press a cross beam onto the screw tips to make a mark.
On the mark at the end of each cross beam, drill a 3mm pilot hole. Drive 4.5 x 65mm screws through the legs and into the cross beams.

One set of legs is narrower than the other, to allow the table to be folded and put away when not in use.

Step 9: Attach the Legs

Place each set of legs flush against the inside of the apron.
Attach the drop-down/flap hinges as shown.

Step 10: Finishing

To provide protection from the elements, it is essential to apply a sealer to the table.
Wipe clean to remove all traces of dust before applying three coats of exterior sealer.

Step 11: Finished Table

Here is the table folded up. As you can see, the legs overlap each other and take up little space if you need to store the table when not in use.



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    Can you please post building instructions for the table legs.
    I love the table and look forward to making the bench seats.
    Thanks again for the table plans.

    awww..... i thought the convoluted edges folded into itself like an accordion.... Mr. dezine.... you have yet another project to do.

    very nice looking table. I saw it in my email and thought it folded up some wierd way though.

    I really like this. I am going to seal my parts before assembly though.
    Any chance you might post the benches ?

    I built a sort of similar tabend table set by taking a big wire spool,and cutting yen yang patterns in the spool ends. This was tricky because of all of the nails. I used the curved boards that make up the interior part that the wire rests on to make the table bases.


    "...wire-spool... yin/yang table..."

    ...sounds eminently 'ible-worthy to me...

    Will definitely post the benches.

    Going to the trouble of cutting the curves takes this from a good table to a great table!

    One quick tip on spacing planks. I use a 3mm dowel to space boards instead of flat shims, The round shape makes uniform spacing simple. To make the dowel easier to work with, I drill a hole in a flat piece scrap and push the dowel through. Make 2 of these and spacing is a snap!

    Nice. Simple but effective!

    I am yet to read this instructable......but just how beautiful this is.....what a pleasant surprise......Love it.....thanks and regards......